Stickley Morris Chair - finished

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Ironballs

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Right then, this is my evening class project for the year and I've decided to do a chair, Gustav Stickley's interpretation of a William Morris recliner chair to be precise. I've not built a chair before and I like the specific look of the Stickley so I decided to get some plans to follow, a quick search and a tenner later I have what I need from Plans Now - though they are American which means everything is inches. Job number one was to convert into metric.

Like Stickley's original my chair was to be made from quarter sawn white oak, which meant a long time trawling through boards down at the timber yard to find what I needed. Chris at Yorkshire Oak was his usual helpful self and was on hand to help me dig through them; in particular when I started to hunt out boards to make the 10mm square spindles, he pointed me in the direction of his waney edge offcuts, all I needed and those came for free.

This is what I arrived home with (though not all shown), pretty rough and there's a lot of work to properly select my pieces and make my cuts.

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Now the more observant among you may have noticed that we are in April and most classes start in September, well, yes they do. However I had decided that I would do this project almost solely at class, which limits my shop time to 2.5 hours a week in term time. What I did underestimate was just how long it was going to take me to machine all this stock and most of the first term was given over to preparing the boards (bar a couple of weeks lost to a side project). I was pretty fed up with machining by Christmas. I was also a little bit stronger as heaving that amount of oak around keeps you fit.

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The legs on a Stickley have Q/sawn figure on each face, which means they're composite legs, the originals had a special interlocking moulding based on a 45 deg bevel. You can buy the tooling to do this, but it isn't cheap - for a one off. The plans used a couple of planks glued together with a sawn veneer covering the glued non Q/sawn edge, I didn't fancy this and went for a 45 degree bevel joint instead.

For some reason I had disengaged the brain when buying my stock and had bought boards just over the full thickness of the leg rather than thinner boards for making composites. So I had to re-saw the boards and thickness (very slightly!). It was then off to the spindle moulder to pass the parts through; this largely worked well but a minor issue in set up lead to some instability and the cut wasn't perfect, ie some snipe and some undercutting.

A further issue arose when I inspected the boards the following week. Some had moved. Balls. Any road I cleaned them up and embarked on one of the most trying glue ups I've ever done. See below...

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As you can imagine it was a delicate job and involved lots of tightening and backing off of clamps to get the piece nice and square. It was at this point that I thought, perhaps a jig would have been a good idea. The rear legs came out fine but the fronts were the ones with the movement and despite me best efforts I could not overcome this and there were too many gaps and overhangs. So I binned them. Bought some new boards and made up for lost time by making the cuts at home, but this time by ripping on the table saw.

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This largely went well but again the cuts weren't perfect and needed some cleaning up. Glued these up as before and you can see where there were some imperfections.

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There was also some excess glue which was trimmed off with a scraper

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A couple of minutes with a scraper burnisher had closed the gaps and a wipe with the sandpaper tidied things up

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That left me with these and the more eagle eyed amongst you will notice that one leg is not 100% square, duly noted in my onward calculations and not a big enough issue to warrant a remake

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Finally it was time to get on and cut some joints, so off to the morticer to make some holes in the legs

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After that I had to make about 14 billion tenons and decided that bandsaw and shoulder plane/chisel was the way to go, giving me a mix of power and hand tools. Needless to say it took quite a while to fit each of the rails, but satisfying and you got nice black hands from the tannins and cast iron.

Now......also included in the plans is an accompanying ottoman (stool to you and I) that I wasn't going to build, but after pressure from the Design Authority I decided to go for it. As this coincided with a slight letting up of the sub-Arctic temps round here I decided to speed things up by doing the stool at home. Again lots of machining and one piece legs this time.

My little Axi morticer ate up these mortices and again proved its worth. Previous experience lead me to do two things, one to shim the fence with card to get it square (a design flaw) and two to treat the chisel like any other and flatten/polish the sides. Like a knife through butter now and no sticking.

Here are the legs being done

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I made and fitted the tenons as before and then went on to making the bevels on top of the legs. A bit of marking

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A bit of sanding to get through the waste

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Then some block planing

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Some more marking and repeat of the steps above

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To leave me with these

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Now, remember those spindles I mentioned earlier, 32 on the chair and 16 on the stool, these took an age to machine and all need a little tenon on each end. Essentially a batch job and one for the tablesaw. Now for those of a nervous disposition, yes the guard and knife have been removed, but I'm using the sliding carriage and my hands stayed on the safe side of the upright clamp holder.

Here you go. A pass on all of them to the shoulder line and a second pass to remove the waste at the end

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That left me with this little pile that all needed cleaning up with the smoother. This was a looooonnngggg day

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Back to the chair, I had to make some more tenons for the back slats but these required 1.5mm of wood removing from each face. Not a great deal, so I decided to make use of the full facilities at the college

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Worked a treat after the test piece had shown that the bed was 0.5mm out :x

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Another job on the chair, this time the arms and as they have a bend in them you have to create a little extra thickness to allow the cut to be sawn in. Doesn't look pretty now but hopefully will do later

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Seems to be a lot of elapsed time for not too much progress! I do have some other bits and pieces complete like the corbels for instance, but I'm at the point where things will start to come together quite quickly
 
I like the look of this so far. Do you have any photos or sketches of the design?

Interesting way of doing the legs. I also much prefer this method to gluing a length of veneer on two faces. :? Why did you decide not to add any biscuits or splines? That surely wouldn't have helped with the alignment during the glue-up.

Keep those photos coming! :)
 
There is a serious amount of work in the legs mate. Do you have a pic of the design or a similar project?
 
There is a lot of work in the legs and I'm hoping it's worth it - they look good so far. Olly, yes, biscuits may well have helped! However I don't have a great deal of depth to play with and there are a lot of mortices that could find a biscuit. Hindsight though eh....

Like I said at the top, I got the plans from Plans Now and they're generally pretty good, they provide you with dimensions, by board cutting lists (though finished rather than sawn) and also some building tips as you go along. There's also a related article I took off FWW as well and this gives a bit of advice on fuming.

Couple of pages from the plans to give an idea of the design

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If you google-ise ready made ones in the US then these chairs can go for up to $3.5K, a lot for an old chair but so far I've sunk 250 quid into the timber and spent a fair few hours on the construction. Even the batch jobs are not quick
 
Okay, another update and time to mark out and cut the end of the arms to shape from where I added the extra chunk on.

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Waste removed on the bandsaw, carefully does it to avoid finger issues and taking chunks out of the arms

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Leaving the rest to be cleaned up with planes and chisels (and ultimately a bit of sanding). Was quite pleased that the quarter sawn figure came through on the cut piece, helps blend it in and keep the flow

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It was a lot of work with the block plane and I didn't realise till too late that my finger was a little sore and a blister had popped up. Dedication to the cause

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Then to the back of the arms to drill out the holes for the adjustment pegs, took my my forstner to the limit of its depth

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The other side of the arm has the corner taken off

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Next minor job was to profile the top of the tenons on the rear legs to match the slope on the shoulders. God bless those little bevel boxes

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And job done

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Last job tonight was to cut the tenons on the top rails, fairly straightforward with a little cutaway taken out too. Getting closer to the dry clamp up - and then the fettling to get it all square and un-rhombus like, which it's bound to be....

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I am watching this one with interest IronB.

I have these plans myself. There is also a DVD on constructing an almost identical chair on the FWW site. In case you didn't already know.

I found a reliable (I am informed) supplier for 1/4 sawn oak. Now I have to get down to actually doing some woodwork!

You seem to be doing well on this so far!

Regards
John :D
 
Hi Damian

Interesting job, approached with your usual precision. I'd be interested to know why you did the legs that way, it would have been easier to laminate with a saw cut veneer on the faces where the laminates show, and they would look the same. You seem to be gettig through it quite quickly, how many hours so far?

I remember someone doing a Stickley chair almost exactly like this when I taught at Leeds (not actually in my class), so Derek should be familar with it by know!

Chris
 
Im watching and making notes of this one. I had my eye on the very same set of plans - that chair is earmarked for the office after our recent re-decoration, such a great looking chair, but not sure if it's beyond me. You seem to be making great progress.
 
Being one who rarely follows a plan exactly, I planned to form the armrests from laminated oak, over a curved former.

Just a departure that seemed to make sense to me. Whether or not it would actually work I don't know, but I can't see reason why it shouldn't.

Nice going though.

John :)
 
I'd agree about the legs Chris, they were a real fiddle and still aren't perfect, I just didn't want the slight ridge you'd get with the sawn veneers - unless you mitred the joins. With regard to making quick progress, bear in mind that I started it in late September... :oops: That said if you got a good supply of sawn or P2F boards then that could cut down the time machining greatly, mine were very waney.

I've done very little at home until easter so total time taken so far is probably about 50 hours - I spent most of the first term just machining as there are a lot of components in this chair.

BB most of this chair is mortice and tenon joinery of some type, so well within the scope of anyone who has the skills to build a guitar - like yourself. I've only been at this hobby for 3.5 years and learning all the time, so if I can give it a go anyone can.

BW don't see why your plan wouldn't work, having looked into plenty of plans before going for this one, they seem to split into 2 main groups, bent arm and bow arm. So yours is a popular choice. In fact it should be possible to do a more "Maloof" curve to the arm that goes the other way. However you'd then have to put some other curves into the piece and you end up with a completely different chair. Would be fun though :)

Must get some more pictures up with recent progress. Have been building a jig to allow accurate routing of the strips to hold the spindles
 
Hi Damian

Interesting what you say about a slight ridge with saw cut veneers, not sure I've experienced that, possibly because I haven't been looking.

50 hours seems very reasonable for the progress you have made.

Chris
 
Very nice woodworking going on here. Hope to see the end result soon. I envy you :wink: you're seriously equiped, veritas nx60 =P~
 
Ironballs":17x5jmac said:
BW don't see why your plan wouldn't work, having looked into plenty of plans before going for this one, they seem to split into 2 main groups, bent arm and bow arm. So yours is a popular choice. In fact it should be possible to do a more "Maloof" curve to the arm that goes the other way. However you'd then have to put some other curves into the piece and you end up with a completely different chair. Would be fun though :)

Must get some more pictures up with recent progress. Have been building a jig to allow accurate routing of the strips to hold the spindles

It's a thought IB, but too many curves would mean sharpening my draw-knife for a job this size. I am not long on patience for that kind of honing!

Cheers.
John :)
 
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