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SteveF

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16 Sep 2013
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Location
Maidstone
can't believe I am screwless
options are screwfix or axminster or tool station or fixings warehouse
just need to get the usual 50 60 70 80 etc

any advice?

I liked the bullet screws I got before, but can't seem to find them

Steve
 
travis perkins, but tbh i use my local timber merchant, he stocks spax, and they work out about 50% cheaper than tp's bullets
 
reisser look similar to the bullets
will grab a few tubs and see how get on

Steve
 
I have toolstation just down the road and always pop in there when I need some, certainly the best prices out of all mentioned places and does the job just fine!
 
Snapped off a good 25% of the 5x90 screwfix turbo II, shank sheared where treated and not threaded join. Driving into treated softwood. Nearly everyone I tried to take out later also sheared off. Unrealistic expectations? But overall not that impressed. Loved the square drive screws I used for the cladding.

F.
 
5mm is a bit skinny for a 90mm screw. I used some hex headed 6x90 a while back and I reckon you'd have to try pretty hard to shear them.
 
Fitzroy":1r4soyf2 said:
Snapped off a good 25% of the 5x90 screwfix turbo II, shank sheared where treated and not threaded join. Driving into treated softwood. Nearly everyone I tried to take out later also sheared off. Unrealistic expectations? But overall not that impressed. Loved the square drive screws I used for the cladding.

F.
Are you putting them in with a drill driver or an impact driver ? That sounds alot to snap.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
ColeyS1":342hxyxb said:
Fitzroy":342hxyxb said:
Snapped off a good 25% of the 5x90 screwfix turbo II, shank sheared where treated and not threaded join. Driving into treated softwood. Nearly everyone I tried to take out later also sheared off. Unrealistic expectations? But overall not that impressed. Loved the square drive screws I used for the cladding.

F.
Are you putting them in with a drill driver or an impact driver ? That sounds alot to snap.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I've had similar issues with them in the past, using impact drivers...
 
For the life of me, I can not understand the need for impact drivers in woodworking, it just seems all wrong IMO.

Duck.

Mike
 
MikeJhn":vyxb1guk said:
For the life of me, I can not understand the need for impact drivers in woodworking, it just seems all wrong IMO.

Duck.

Mike
it's not always woodworking
today i put some of the metal bars you get that have shelf hangars you slot in
how long would it take to get the drill and bit, pilot the hole in studwork , screw by hand a 60mm screw x 9
I think once I grabbed the screws and spirit level ....5 minutes later they are on wall
shelf board slung on top 6 more screws through the bracket walk away

Steve
 
MikeJhn":3kbbxdlb said:
For the life of me, I can not understand the need for impact drivers in woodworking, it just seems all wrong IMO.

Duck.

Mike

I find them fast and efficient in rough carpentry / constructional work using larger timbers and longer screws, but it's not compulsory of course !
 
SteveF":1e8did2u said:
MikeJhn":1e8did2u said:
For the life of me, I can not understand the need for impact drivers in woodworking, it just seems all wrong IMO.

Duck.

Mike
it's not always woodworking
today i put some of the metal bars you get that have shelf hangars you slot in
how long would it take to get the drill and bit, pilot the hole in studwork , screw by hand a 60mm screw x 9
I think once I grabbed the screws and spirit level ....5 minutes later they are on wall
shelf board slung on top 6 more screws through the bracket walk away

Steve
He is talking about an impact driver, not a battery screwdriver.
 
I may be a dinosaur but I really prefer a traditional woodscrew,plain shank and slotted head.The old Nettlefolds allowed you to drill the proper clearance hole and when the wood was handled,the screws stayed in place.I have put in 4,000 in a day with a Yankee screwdriver but prefer not to get too involved in production work at this level these days.Not sure where you would buy the things now.The slotted head beats all others when you have to do any repair as its a lot easier to clean out a slot than any form of proprietary head.

I may be a little bitter in these matters as I once was lead to believe the marketing blurb for some decking screws which were said to be able to drill their own clearance hole and tap their way into a steel frame while creating their own countersink.After snapping the third,I reverted to drilling a clearance hole and a conventional pilot hole and by using a mains screwdriver,got away with using the rest.
 
MattRoberts":cstv7ays said:
woodpig":cstv7ays said:
Or you could try these.

https://www.squarescrews.co.uk

Pozidrive are pants in comparison.
Have you bought from there? I'd like to switch to square drive, and the prices seem OK there.

Thanks

I've only had a thousand or so from them, mostly stainless but they've all been good. Their service is pretty good as well. They only sell pukka drivers as well, unlike the Makita square drive bits that don't fit! :wink:
 

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