Can I change keyed chuck to keyless?

[Yorkieguy]

I've got two pillar drills - one with a keyed chuck, one keyless.

From my perspective, keyless chucks are fine in hand drills (or the tailstock of a lathe), as you can hold the chuck horizontal while you slip the bit into and tighten the chuck easily enough. However, in a pillar drill, being vertical, it can be a bit of a faff to hold the drill in the chuck, and tighten the chuck with both hands. It can be done - I do it all the time, but I find a keyed chuck quicker to use and more convenient.

You don't need to spend a fortune. Chronos Engineering Supplies Ltd don't sell junk, and have a range of reasonably price keyless (and keyed) chucks and arbors:

Search Results - Chronos Engineering Tools

As Phil pointed out in post #17, 'B16' refers to the taper on the chuck end of the arbor. The other (longer) end of the arbor is most likely going to be a Morse Taper, (MT1 or MT2?), and fits into the pillar. If you leave the arbor in place, it will limit your options to only being able to buy a chuck with a B16 taper, but on the other hand, broadening out the range of keyless chuck options would require you to remove the arbor from your pillar drill (do they knock out with a bar from the top of the pillar?), which I guess you'd be reluctant to do. Then you could chose any keyless chuck with the appropriate MT arbor for that chuck. (Many come with an MT arbor attached)

I wouldn't wish to dissuade you, but I would echo the sentiments in post #13 above:

"Unless you have 3 hands I would think long and hard about fitting a keyless chuck to a pillar drill"

Based on my experience with a keyless chuck on one pillar drill, I won't be changing my keyed chuck in my other pillar drill any time soon.

David.

 

[HamsterJam]

Another keyless chuck user in a pillar (bench) drill here.
Although I agree it requires some dexterity to hold the bit and simultaneously tighten the chuck, it really isn’t difficult and IMHO far more convenient than trying to track down the chuck key you put down 2 seconds ago but is now nowhere to be seen.

 

[Sheptonphil]

My pillar drill had a keyless chuck from day one, and I’ve never had a problem. There is enough drag on the chuck to tighten it far enough to hold the bit, then 2 hands to hold the rear collar and finally tighten.

Same here, my large Jet pillar drill came with a great keyless chuck. Doesn’t take long to work out how to hold bit and collar in one hand, tighten top ring with the other to at least pinch it up, then tighten grip and lock it up. Takes far less time and aggro that a key.
I say go for the change. I’d never go back to a keyed chuck on a pillar drill, or any other come to that.
To remove the chuck, I have a key way where a wedge (supplied with drill) gets put in above the chuck taper as a knockout.

 

[MikeK]

I'll join the those who have no problems at all with a keyless chuck in a tabletop pillar drill. I use one hand to hold the twist drill or hex-shank drill in place while turning the chuck with the other hand. Simples.

 

[Yorkieguy]

Another keyless chuck user in a pillar (bench) drill here.
Although I agree it requires some dexterity to hold the bit and simultaneously tighten the chuck, it really isn’t difficult and IMHO far more convenient than trying to track down the chuck key you put down 2 seconds ago but is now nowhere to be seen.

I keep my key on a magnet on the side of the drill - no dramas.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Likewise, and on the morticer. On my corded drill and angle grinder the key is lashed to the lead at the plug end - dual purpose - it ensures the tool is unplugged when changing bits or discs and I've not lost a key in the better part of fifty years.

 

[Tony51]

Would the keyless chuck be longer than a keyed chuck? Cutting down available drilling space.
Tony

 

[Si465]

I also added a keyless chuck to my Clarke pillar drill and never looked back. It was about £30 from arc euro trade