I have an old Sealy GDM-50A/5/B pillar drill and need to replace the chuck as it wobbles a bit. I can’t find a manual for it nor anything online. The most common way on YouTube seems to be to use something like a ball joint splitter and whack it (!) which I’ve tried, but it doesn’t work and I’m not convinced it’s the correct method - or maybe it’s just corroded. Any help gratefully received!
How do I remove the chuck on my Sealy GDM-50A/5/B pillar drill drill?
- Thread starter MrM
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bourbon
Established Member
is it a Morse taper, or is the chuck screwed to the quill?
It could be screwed on.
It could be fixed with a taper.
If a taper, there may be a slot in the side of the quill (up and down tube) where you insert a key like a long wedge and tap with a hammer to knock the spindle of the chuck out. Google morse taper key.
Otherwise, you use a wide thin wedge with a U shaped cutout to fit around the spindle and tap this into the narrow gap between the back of the chuck and bottom end of the quill.
Trying to pull off a threaded chuck with a wedge isn't going to work. So look for #2 first (easy to spot) then if you can't find a manual, wait and see if anyone who knows sees this.
It could be fixed with a taper.
If a taper, there may be a slot in the side of the quill (up and down tube) where you insert a key like a long wedge and tap with a hammer to knock the spindle of the chuck out. Google morse taper key.
Otherwise, you use a wide thin wedge with a U shaped cutout to fit around the spindle and tap this into the narrow gap between the back of the chuck and bottom end of the quill.
Trying to pull off a threaded chuck with a wedge isn't going to work. So look for #2 first (easy to spot) then if you can't find a manual, wait and see if anyone who knows sees this.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Looks like it takes a morse taper, and also has a slot in the quill to accept a drift.
I took a cheap f-clamp to the bench grinder, as it was the only 4mm stock I had .
Here's plans I found, looks to be the machine in question.
https://static.rapidonline.com/pdf/89-1784_v002.pdf
I took a cheap f-clamp to the bench grinder, as it was the only 4mm stock I had .
Here's plans I found, looks to be the machine in question.
https://static.rapidonline.com/pdf/89-1784_v002.pdf
It may be useful to clarify that the first stage of the operation would be to remove part 21 from part 22.
Then, once that is out, separate part 20 from part 21.
Part 79 is the wedge/drift needed for the first step.
Thank you all for your help! I’m afraid I’m still struggling to figure it out. looking at the plans, I can’t see any sort of slot for part 79, except for a small square hole (photos attached). Having looked at a few websites and videos, I think that it’s a Jacob’s taper and needs hitting with a ball joint splitter as Sideways suggests. But when I try that nothing budges. The chuck has RJ6 - 13L written on the side If that means anything.
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Phill05
Established Member
Going by the RJ6 that is a taper so it should part, Is there a hole on top going down the shaft? If so hit a rod down the shaft to knock it out. if no hole and you are going to replace the chuck find a rod that will fit tight in the key hole then give it a sharp wack to one side, not down, hold the pulley from turning whilst you hit it.
You may need to try this approach.
Wedges can be bought or made...
https://www.instructables.com/Wedges-for-Drill-Chuck-Removal/
Wedges can be bought or made...
https://www.instructables.com/Wedges-for-Drill-Chuck-Removal/
Thanks! I’ll give it a try.
Thanks! Very interesting article.
Do you have a UK source from whom they can be bought (i.e. a stock item)? Thanks.
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As the chuck has RJ6 on it, would it be reasonable to infer that it has a Jacobs number 6 taper on it? If so, that is the pair of wedges he would need (each taper uses a different size pair of wedges).
Orraloon
Established Member
When you say the chuck wobbles what exactly is wobbling? Often its the whole quill will have some play so if that is the case a new chuck will still wobble. Seldom is the chuck the problem. Check for slop with the quill right up then fully extended. You can just feel this by pulling sideways on the chuck. The screw in the hex nut on the side opposite the handle can be adjusted to take up some of the slop. All drill presses have some slop and usually are good enough for woodwork. If it drills a hole that is round and the size of the bit used then thats ok for woodwork. More precision required for metal work so the more high end expensive machines are better there.
Regards
John
Regards
John
Heat often helps if they are stubborn. If you have something like a hot air gun, then use that to heat the chuck up first. You can also try putting the biggest hex key you have with the short end clamped in the chuck, then give the long end a sharp downward thump with a hammer, better still put a tube over the key so you can support the far end of the tube, then use something heavy and thin, like the shaft of a big spanner, to tap it downward as close to the chuck as you can. Don't go mad, If a few sharp heavy taps doesn't shift it, then you will have to get some wedges. Don't try and twist it, you will damage the quill guide pin, which runs in the long slot on the side, or you might damage the quill itself.
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The big Sealy machines have a slit in the quill housing with clamping screws so you can adjust the clearance, simple idea but it works.
Phill05
Established Member
Fergie, you should Not hit it down as that can bend the shaft it should be hit from the side as in rotation of the chuck.
Are your photos showing the quill fully extended ?
When the drill bit spins it isn’t true - not too bad when using a small bit, but I quite often use large forstner bits and the whole piece of wood wobbles, causing rough edges and the hole probably ends up one or two mm wider than it should. However I’ll definitely look into making sure there isn’t any movement from the quill. I would like to replace the chuck anyway though as I’d like a keyless one.
Yes, that’s right.
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