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Turned this:-
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into this:-
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Still untidy but a lot better, and a trial run for the other side of the workshop which may end up as 18' of cupboards.
 

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A simple side table, just have to round over the sharp edges on the top and the bottom of the legs, final sanding, glue up the base, attach the top to the base, and then finish with a water based poly.

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Nice table oak?

I personally wouldn't finish anything with water based poly, my default finish is Danish oil for most things especially oak.

Pete
 
Thanks Pete
Yes its Oak, i do have Danish Oil.
Why not water based poly?
My knowledge of finishing is really poor so advice most welcome!!!

Racers":25ud7a50 said:
Nice table oak?

I personally wouldn't finish anything with water based poly, my default finish is Danish oil for most things especially oak.

Pete
 
stuffimade":18kjj3ci said:
Thanks Pete
Yes its Oak, i do have Danish Oil.
Why not water based poly?
My knowledge of finishing is really poor so advice most welcome!!!

Just speaking for myself, Danish oil is my go-to on oak. I like the way it brings out the colour, and it gives the oak a nice sheen without being too glossy.
 
stuffimade":30at3tg2 said:
Thanks Pete
Yes its Oak, i do have Danish Oil.
Why not water based poly?
My knowledge of finishing is really poor so advice most welcome!!!

Racers":30at3tg2 said:
Nice table oak?

I personally wouldn't finish anything with water based poly, my default finish is Danish oil for most things especially oak.

Pete


The things I have finished in water based poly never seem to set hard and wash out the colour, Danish oil brings out the colour like DTR said and is easy to apply and refinish.

21st March by Racers, on Flickr

Pete
 
agree with Pete, danish oil does bring out the colour nicely, recently I tried pure tung oil, it looks amazing on oak, but is expensive, I think I prefer the pure tung oil slightly, either one would be a good choice!
 
A couple of years ago I tried to get some info. as to the difference between Danish and finishing oil. (It's the resin content apparently) but I was advised by a lady from Liberon (iirc) that Danish was suitable for all hardwoods ... except oak. I inquired why that should be, but didn't get a follow up email and didn't pursue it. I've never had any problem with it on oak.
Btw - some Danish (Bestwood is one ) contains 50% tung.
 
My first attempt at a photo frame. Made in Oak and gave me a good chance to use the new router table, quite proud of the results.
Size is about 400 x 350mm. May have loads of router related questions to follow :D
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A little 5½'' bowl, I believe it's Elm?

Best part is the base... No tenon, no recess, thanks to my new donut chuck.

100_5857.jpg
 
My second ever post - A Doll House kit, how embarrasing is that!
Not really "made" but assembled and I did make the (unfinished) base, but I suppose we all get impatient to show something.

The base is simple framing with MDF sides and a plywood top. the Doors for the base are MDF too, both will have the mouldings picked out in a contrast colour to make it look vaguely Edwardian/Victorian.

Yes, altogether it is 6' tall! Bought for my wife by one of my daugthers. It wasn't on the top of my list by any means but I had to get it done because the contents of the kit had completely taken over the dining room - seven large and fairly heavy boxes. The kit is made from 9mm MDF and some type of very soft woood not balsa that gets close.

It was very fiddly - I assume these are normaly bought as a hobby. I was just instructed to build it by SWMBO. For example, although it can't be seen in the photos you have to assemble the balustrades and spindles of the staircases and the "stonework". Then "wallpapering", painting little bits and I even laid miniture solid wood floor boards (10mm x 1mm thick) one at a time :(

I got this far by yesterday.
 

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Im impressed not just by the skills and the labour but by the fact you have giant 6 foot children. :D
 
Woodchips2":1yv5a0je said:
Looks nice Naz, well done =D> =D>

For those wondering about Donut chucks here is a video on how to make one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-10dXclT_4

Regards Keith


... and they are a lot less likely to remove your knuckles than a Longworth chuck. :-D


I hadn't seen that video, I like the idea of the split pipe as a 'squishy bit' rather than the unsightly job I did with my anti-slip stuff.
 
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