Advice needed - Porch canopy build

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Think of bridges. The strongest shape to take weight is a triangle. It shares a load into 2. Each leg is straight. A straight leg on anything bulges into an arc before it breaks. Therefore arcs are not meant to be loadbearing. I think you might be overthinking this. If you are local I'll give you 2 arcs left over from another job.
 
The half lap and peg is a joint used in patternmaking to make a very strong box section. It would be done on each of 4 corners to produce the box. If I were doing it I wouldn't fit the arc end to the same point but move it inwards about 3 inches. I'm not sure the arc piece is meant to be load bearing see but more a decorative feature. If it were load bearing it would be straight and notched into a back piece. Think of your college days and physics. A curve under load will bulge out at widest arc as that is where the stress is. A load bearer would be straight to transfer the load to the wall where the load would be concentrated.
I think the curve is more decorative, someone else has said this elsewhere. I think particularly if I add that diagonal brace in the roof section it should be okay.

I’m still not sure how the corner piece could be done as a pegged lap. I’ve been googling it and they seem to only be orientated in two planes, not three. How would you connect the 3rd piece? Could you send me a link to an image? Sorry if this seems like basic stuff!
 
I think the curve is more decorative, someone else has said this elsewhere. I think particularly if I add that diagonal brace in the roof section it should be okay.

I’m still not sure how the corner piece could be done as a pegged lap. I’ve been googling it and they seem to only be orientated in two planes, not three. How would you connect the 3rd piece? Could you send me a link to an image? Sorry if this seems like basic stuff!
Hi I don't have an image. I haven't googled it. Its from years of experience. I could make it quicker than explain it. Just imagine making the two ends first using half lap basic joints. So you would end up with two squares. Set them on edge when glue has dried and place the two laterals between the bottom corners. Bit like making a box kite. Glue the corners to the laterals and clamp with sash clamps. Then drill a 1 inch hole through the corner and about 4 inches into the lateral. Drive a 1 inch dowel through the half lap into the end of the lateral.
 
Hi I don't have an image. I haven't googled it. Its from years of experience. I could make it quicker than explain it. Just imagine making the two ends first using half lap basic joints. So you would end up with two squares. Set them on edge when glue has dried and place the two laterals between the bottom corners. Bit like making a box kite. Glue the corners to the laterals and clamp with sash clamps. Then drill a 1 inch hole through the corner and about 4 inches into the lateral. Drive a 1 inch dowel through the half lap into the end of the lateral.
Repeat with the other ends.
 
that curve is totally structural surely just because its curved its still triangulating the load.
I think it is structural to an extent but not supporting a massive amount of weight, as much of that will be taken by the top two M&T joints on the back vertical piece and just the strength of that whole box section..? This is what I’ve been told elsewhere anyway.

The one below I’ve just seen while out for a walk has a much bigger roof section, almost twice the size of mine, so I think although they will be playing a part in the load bearing maybe not as much as it might seem?

It’s more this corner joint I can’t get my head around 🤣
 

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Hi I don't have an image. I haven't googled it. Its from years of experience. I could make it quicker than explain it. Just imagine making the two ends first using half lap basic joints. So you would end up with two squares. Set them on edge when glue has dried and place the two laterals between the bottom corners. Bit like making a box kite. Glue the corners to the laterals and clamp with sash clamps. Then drill a 1 inch hole through the corner and about 4 inches into the lateral. Drive a 1 inch dowel through the half lap into the end of the lateral.
I think I see what you mean - so drill through the lap directly into the end grain of the longer, lateral pieces?
 
I'd suggest the reverse. the cyma curve is assisted by the box. take a door as an example. a 9 inch twin wedged m and t still need diagonal support. and sometimes those supports can be a cyma curve
 
I'd suggest the reverse. the cyma curve is assisted by the box. take a door as an example. a 9 inch twin wedged m and t still need diagonal support. and sometimes those supports can be a cyma curve
Fair enough. I mean I’m definitely still keeping the curve as is, albeit cutting out of one 60mm board as the original was. I guess those vertical supports on the curve are adding a lot too.

Never heard of a ‘Cyma’ curve before today either!
 
Think of bridges. The strongest shape to take weight is a triangle. It shares a load into 2. Each leg is straight. A straight leg on anything bulges into an arc before it breaks. Therefore arcs are not meant to be loadbearing. I think you might be overthinking this. If you are local I'll give you 2 arcs left over from another job.
Sorry just seen this reply - I think you might be right. I do tend to overworry this stuff, I think the fact this has to be structural is making me more cautious than usual - it’s less a problem if a table collapses! I’m based on Tyneside, think you’re midlands? Bit of a trek but thanks very much for the kind offer.
 
I think it is structural to an extent but not supporting a massive amount of weight, as much of that will be taken by the top two M&T joints on the back vertical piece and just the strength of that whole box section..? This is what I’ve been told elsewhere anyway.

The one below I’ve just seen while out for a walk has a much bigger roof section, almost twice the size of mine, so I think although they will be playing a part in the load bearing maybe not as much as it might seem?

It’s more this corner joint I can’t get my head around 🤣
I did some work on a victorian canopy some years ago. One side had collapsed. The bottom string 3 x 3 was let into the wall the whole width till under floorboards. The rest was built off this. So this and the one on the other end took all the weight. The fancy fretwork under neath was just nailed to the joists. Was able to remove it whole clean it up and refit it.
 
that could be made much daintier. it's actually massively overbuilt. probably 1 by 2 would be sufficient if that triangle support had 2 m and ts. because the shoulders provide the strength against the weight.
 
Fair enough. I mean I’m definitely still keeping the curve as is, albeit cutting out of one 60mm board as the original was. I guess those vertical supports on the curve are adding a lot too.

Never heard of a ‘Cyma’ curve before today either!
Nor me. Learn something new all the time
 
I think those tenons into the curved pieces are a rot pocket imho.

The curved stays are definitely taking a majority of the the weight tbh

Dominos would work well if you have access to them.
 
I think those tenons into the curved pieces are a rot pocket imho.

The curved stays are definitely taking a majority of the the weight tbh

Dominos would work well if you have access to them.
No access to domino unfortunately. The original had the ‘harp strings’ (another new term learned!) tenoned in, but I accept the point and could easily screw those. Ditto the turned pieces which were also mortised in. The whole thing will be painted with a good few coats and consequently can be filled, sealed etc around any gaps on joints to minimise any water penetrating, but is also no harm and potentially easier to just use fixings.

All this aside, my main quandary is still the joint in the bottom corner and how to connect 4 pieces together. I’ve been playing around with some lap joint ideas based on what toolkit said, but worry it’s getting very elaborate. Maybe not so much as mortise and tenon on 3 sides perhaps…

…really must learn sketch-up 🤣
 

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No access to domino unfortunately. The original had the ‘harp strings’ (another new term learned!) tenoned in, but I accept the point and could easily screw those. Ditto the turned pieces which were also mortised in. The whole thing will be painted with a good few coats and consequently can be filled, sealed etc around any gaps on joints to minimise any water penetrating, but is also no harm and potentially easier to just use fixings.

All this aside, my main quandary is still the joint in the bottom corner and how to connect 4 pieces together. I’ve been playing around with some lap joint ideas based on what toolkit said, but worry it’s getting very elaborate. Maybe not so much as mortise and tenon on 3 sides perhaps…

…really must learn sketch-up 🤣
Shouldn't be elaborate. For each side cut 4 lengths a little longer than necessary. Soldier them together side by side put some masking tape on to keep them together. Mark the half lap with your square. Set the blade depth to half thickness and run the 4 pieces together over your table saw. Move cut along to the end. You will have a series of stand ups left. Push them over with your thumb and clean surface up with a large chisel. Turn one around and it will lap over the other. Repeat with the other two and you have your square. I still think the arc and fretwork could be screwed or nailed on. I believe you said the old one was anyway so that couldn't have been supporting.
 
Sorry I can't advise at all - but there's plenty of knowledge on here.
But by complete coincidence, I've just turned the spindles and drop finials for a similar canopy porch in Edgbaston
 

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