mortice and tenons

[JFC]

Scrit , i've tried doing tenons with just a router and it takes far to many passes compared to the bandsaw . If what your suggesting is a clean up pass then it sounds like a good idea and i do have a few spare routers
I might try and set the legacy up tomorrow just to see if i can clean up 20 odd tenons in a few passes . Im sure it'll work but i need to test it first .

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[JFC]

All this fiddling about with routers is just an inefficient bodge.

Easy Tiger !

It'd make something 'like' it viewed from 100 yards but you just wouldn't be able to copy the profiles- most of the cuts would be too big for a router and you'd need 100s of quids worth of purpose made cutters if you wanted to do a perfect copy.
Anyway what would be the point if you've got a spindle moulder?

Like i say i think it would be worth your while taking the time to look at the product properly . One or two off the shelf cutters would make an exact copy , i know ive done it .

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[JFC]

You don't need the profile on the cutter . You drop the cutter onto the profile and transfer it to your new timber . Yes a spindle moulder is great for doing lots of M runs of moulds but for a one off i use the Legacy , it really is quick. My local timber yard passes all their odd mouldings to me as i can turn them around quicker .
As for the noise and dust (hammer) Its a workshop :roll:

 

[Scrit]

Hi JFC

I've pondered this and the problem I have is that with two routers held horizontally I don't think there won't be enough power to make the cuts in a single pass, especially as I was thinking in terms of something like a 32mm diameter x 50mm high cutter (about the minimum yopu'd get away with). Another problem is that ideally you need to have the upper and lower cutters contra-rotating to allow control of break-out, but additionally I think you'd need to clamp the work onto some form of sliding carraige for safety's sake and reduce the rotation speed to around the 12,000 to 15,000 rpm mark. By the time you've done all that even a simple spindle like a Robland T30 with a carraige and a pair of tenoning discs wouldn't cost a lot more, IMHO. It would also have the nmajor advantage of bags of torque - something you don't get with Universal motors on portable power tools. The sort of arrangement I was thinking about looks a bit like the tenoning block arrangement on this Danckaert single-end tenoner:

but done with two routers on quadrant plates.

Scrit

 

[Freetochat]

I noted the comment about using the face side against the fence in cutting both cheeks of the tennon, does the same apply using a single rebate block on a spindle molder (ie cutting the first half by passing the wood over the cutter and the second under the cutter, with face side to the table).

 

[Scrit]

I noted the comment about using the face side against the fence in cutting both cheeks of the tennon, does the same apply using a single rebate block on a spindle molder (ie cutting the first half by passing the wood over the cutter and the second under the cutter, with face side to the table).

Yes, this is because the reference surface (face) of the workpiece must always travel against the spindle moulder table. Strictly speaking you cannot readily create a tenon using a rebate block, because in most cases the depth of cut is very limited (a 100mm diameter rebate block can only produce about 25 to 30mm rebate or tenon length because the arbor and spacers get in the way) and the height of cut is too deep to allow you to raise the arbor sufficiently to pass work beneath the cut in many cases (a 50mm high rebate block on 40mm thick material would require a spindle vertical travel of circa 80mm and a spindle length around 140mm to do this trick taking into account spacers and top nut, etc - so you'd be into a fairly big machine). And that's before we even get into safety considerations. If you do use a rebate block and flip over you do run the risk of inaccuracies creeping in

For this reason we use a specialised form of rebate block called a tenoning disc. Here are some old ones:

The diameter is much greater than a rebate block, circa 200 to 300mm to give a tenon length of around 70 to 110mm whilst the height of cut is reduced to around 20 to 30mm which is more than adequate for tenoning. Your workpiece is normally clamped onto a sliding table to make the cut with a break-out board at the back to handle spelching

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[Freetochat]

Thanks Scrit.

What I was going to use was a 250mm (8.5 to 15mm adjustable groover) which gives me up to 100mm width of cut. This would be fed clamped on a slider with a backing piece to reduce tearout. The only other addition would be a sled to raise the peice to a working level to pass over as well as under the cutter due to the cutter being larger than the spindle well.

Regards

John

 

[JFC]

Scrit , i do have the sliding bed on the record router table and have used this in the past to clean up the tenons on some oak doors i made where the visable part of the joint needed to be spot on. It took a long time to pass all the tenons through but gave great results . I think at the end of the day i need to upgrade my spindle moulder to something that will take tenoning blocks . As you know im not happy with the spindle ive got, i just dont trust the beast ! As it is i have a wide collection of cutters for the spindle and a few dedicated blocks and yes the cutters are alot cheaper than router cutters even to have them made for you .
Its just i can buy so many other toys for the cost of a new spindle moulder (hammer)

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[Scrit]

What I was going to use was a 250mm (8.5 to 15mm adjustable groover) which gives me up to 100mm width of cut. This would be fed clamped on a slider with a backing piece to reduce tearout. The only other addition would be a sled to raise the peice to a working level to pass over as well as under the cutter due to the cutter being larger than the spindle well.

Ah, well, that's pretty much the same as a tenoning disc. And as you say put a packing piece beneath.

Scrit