mortice and tenons

[JFC]

Looks like a very tedious way of making or tidying-up tenons.

Not the way i intend to do it . Im planning on lining up around 25 tenons and passing the router along the carriage with a planer cutter cleaning up the tenons , should take around 2 hours including set up . How long would it normally take to clean up 128 tenons ? A little longer than 2 hours i think :wink:
The Legacy is a little more than just another router aid , it seems to have got them all in one and then some more IMHO .
It makes easy and fast work of turning and fluting turnings and also makes dentil moulding a doddle .

 

[wizer]

Why not knock up Steve Maskery's jig and use the router for them all. I do. :wink:

but will the dvd be ready in time?

 

[seaco]

I know it's a swear word on here but you could use a 'dado' setup in your table saw if it will fit?

Lee

 

[wrightclan]

How about going a totally different way, and using loose tenons? Can't think of a faster way to make clean tenons. Of course, then you have to cut twice as many mortices. :?: :-k

Brad

 

[wizer]

How about going a totally different way, and using loose tenons? Can't think of a faster way to make clean tenons. Of course, then you have to cut twice as many mortices. :?: :-k

Brad

Loose tenons, rout the mortises, save wood.

I like the sound of this method and of course what you loose on making more mortices, you save on making accurate tenons

 

[wrightclan]

Sorry, I just noticed Scrit already suggested this.

Brad

 

[wrightclan]

And Waterhead37, too.

Brad

 

[Scrit]

"register face" Is this a new term? It always used to be just "face" and "edge" (and "back face", ditto edge).

Ah yes, but I'm trying to pander to the engineers here..... :wink: Actually I'm spending far too much time with printers recently - some of the terminology is beginning to rub off...... :roll:

Scrit

 

[JFC]

A dado set up wont work on my RAS Ive tried them Also i dont trust my pre war spindle moulder enough to be using tenoning heads .
I dont like the idea of loose tenons as its not as good as a through wedged M&T IMHO .

 

[Scrit]

I know it's a swear word on here but you could use a 'dado' setup in your table saw if it will fit?

How is that different from using a router in terms of accuracy of cut (assuming you are talking about running the work flat on the table and "nibbling" away material in 2 or 3 passes)? To get the accuracy needed you'd have to go to a vertical tenoning jig and throw away the guard - please don't go there :roll:

Scrit

 

[Scrit]

A dado set up wont work on my RAS Ive tried them Also i dont trust my pre war spindle moulder enough to be using tenoning heads .
I dont like the idea of loose tenons as its not as good as a through wedged M&T IMHO .

Which war? 2nd, First, Boer? (only kidding, we've had this conversation already, haven't we? :wink: ) I agree with you about the loose tenons, I'm less happy about them than through tenons, but that's what a Domino is when all said and done....... If you can't run them on the spindle then saw the shoulders on the RAS and bandsaw the faces like Mr G suggests is surely going to be the fastest way.

Scrit

 

[JFC]

I think thats the way to go Scrit , i just want to get them perfect because its a new contact in a very good area and they are using me because their last joiner upped his prices . I think ill set up the Legacy for the clean up just to see if it works as well as i think it will . Added bonus is ill have another jig at the end of it all
Of course i will harp on about how well the Legacy did the job if it all works out :lol:

 

[Scrit]

Then when you're in clover after this job you can afford to go out and get a spindle moulder :wink:

Scrit

 

[JFC]

And a few dedicated blocks :wink:

 

[Scrit]

If you were a bit nearer you could have popped and run them on the single-ender. Although it takes about ten times as long to set-up as run them!

Scrit

 

[seaco]

I know it's a swear word on here but you could use a 'dado' setup in your table saw if it will fit?

How is that different from using a router in terms of accuracy of cut (assuming you are talking about running the work flat on the table and "nibbling" away material in 2 or 3 passes)? To get the accuracy needed you'd have to go to a vertical tenoning jig and throw away the guard - please don't go there :roll:

Scrit

Told you a dado was a swear word, I never said it was more accurate, no need to nibble you could cut full depth in one pass, why would you need to use a tenoning jig (although I do use one and it's a very good bit of kit) but not everyone has one?

I would use a mitre gauge and a small block of wood clamped to the saw fence before the blade to act as a the tenon depth gauge, don't use the saw fence as a depth gauge as you could get kick back, raise the blade to the depth of cheek you want I can get a width of about 20mm cut per pass if you need more just pass again!

Very quick and easy and yes I do have a guard over the dado for this...

Lee

 

[wrightclan]

...don't use the saw fence as a depth gauge...

Lee

You can use the fence as a depth gauge, without risk of kickback if you attach a secondary cheek that ends just after the leading teeth of the blade.

The kickback occurs because of binding ever so slightly between the blade (dado or otherwise) and the fence. Using a mitre gauge with a long fence is a big no-no. If the fence ends at the front of the blade (either by using a short fence or a short secondary cheek), then this danger is eliminated.

BTW, I know Scrit will say never to use a long fence. But the danger in using a long fence with a mitre gauge is far greater than using one for ripping or for cutting sheet stock.

Brad

 

[wrightclan]

Lee,

Sorry, just re-read your post. You just described the same thing I did in another way. Need to stop skimming over posts.

Brad

 

[Alf]

Of course i will harp on about how well the Legacy did the job if it all works out :lol:

Meanwhile you could have done 'em on the 'Rat by now... :wink: :lol:

Sorry, that's not helpful. Interesting thead actually, particularly the feelings of reluctance to use loose tenons. I have the same problem, and I don't know why! In 1903 one book was declaring m&ts as old hat and how everyone uses dowels now - although that was furniture making. S'funny old world.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Anonymous]

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