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A new, slightly fatter, mandrel, for turning the tubes for some whistles - along with freshly turned tubes in Padauk, Pear and African blackwood.
 

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I imagine that's a lot harder to do than it looks.

Sorry but I have to ask have you managed to get all of the angles correct?
Lovely job.
The first walnut one was not even at all. Learning and all that. I used a compas and tried to create and equadistant triangle where needed, directly on the die. Given there is 20 faces, it was 20 occassions to create a mistake, and it showed.

The second walnut one was much better. As seen on the picture. For this one, I created a triangle teplate from hard plastic - Pringles lid. Took 3 tries to cut out a triangle that actually measured 3 of the same lengths. This template made all the difference. The other thing that's needed to succeed is an angle gauge set to an exact angle (138.2 degrees). With these two things, the last thing you need is a lot of patience. :)

The maple one was my third one, and came out the best... Will be making more, from other species.
 

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Bed for a small bedroom (I posted pictures of the wardrobe in the same room about a week ago).

Room is only 1850mm between walls so customer got a shorter than standard mattress and I was asked to make a simple bed with drawers to fit. I was originally just going to put the drawers on castors but after asking the question on here decided it probably wasn't ideal on carpet.

First shot in the workshop with it on the bench to prove I made it 🙂

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I have made another guitar over the last few months, some pics below.

A few here may recall I started a thread about planing back in December last year. Well, I'm happy with how that has progressed, I was able to joint the body and plane it very flat, also hand planed the all the wood in the 9 peice neck down to size (except the 0.6mm black laminations). The scalf joint would have been ruthless at exposing any thickness variations, pleased to say it doesn't.


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Just finished making this bandsaw box for my niece. It’s the final real project in this current workshop before the house sale finally goes through! Outer layer is Oak Burr, centre layers are Ash which is sandwiched by Elm. The handles are made using a red stabilised maple burr, but I didn’t use enough dye in the cactus juice so the blanks ended up rather pink, but perfect here as it’s my niece’s favourite colour. All of the rounded edges were done by hand and lots and lots of hand sanding!

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Just finished making this bandsaw box for my niece. It’s the final real project in this current workshop before the house sale finally goes through! Outer layer is Oak Burr, centre layers are Ash which is sandwiched by Elm. The handles are made using a red stabilised maple burr, but I didn’t use enough dye in the cactus juice so the blanks ended up rather pink, but perfect here as it’s my niece’s favourite colour. All of the rounded edges were done by hand and lots and lots of hand sanding!

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What a beautiful job. You should be proud of this.
A lovely example of honouring beautiful timbers, with superb craftsmanship.
I would love to have your skill and patience.
 
What a beautiful job. You should be proud of this.
A lovely example of honouring beautiful timbers, with superb craftsmanship.
I would love to have your skill and patience.
Thanks sawtooth-9. It was a lot of work, but i am pleased with it. Will be giving it to my niece on Sunday.

Beautiful, but spoiled by the knobs.
I know it wont be to everyone’s tastes, it wasnt enough of a contrast for my liking, but it’s my 4yr old niece’s favourite colour so hopefully she’ll like it. If in future when she’s more grown up she would like to swap out the knobs for something different then I will be more than happy to oblige
 
A few months ago, I made a simple handle to make my LA jack plane a bit more comfortable when I'm using it for shooting:

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It works really well and has been an almost permanent attachment to my low angle jack plane. However, it has two (arguably rather minor) problems:
  1. Firstly, while it gives the gap between thumb and forefinger something comfortable to push against, it doesn't give the rest of the hand something comfortable to hold on to: you're still gripping the side of the plane.
  2. Secondly, it has to be removed if I want to put the plane away:
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I was in a machining mood yesterday so I decided to have a go at making a new version, which I finished this morning.

Here it is in bits:

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Another view:

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The body and knurled nut are (30 mm diameter) brass; the handle is 303 stainless steel; the pivot screw is EN3B mild steel, the pin is EN1A mild steel (the hole in the end is tapped M2.5 to help pull it out of its hole if required). The flat strip is 1 mm thick aluminium, used to stop the grub screws from damaging the side of the plane.

Partly assembled:

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Fully assembled and fitted:

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This is what it looks like in use:

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Undoing the knurled knob allows the handle to pivot 90°...

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... which means the plane now fits on the shelf with the handle attached (and also means the handle doesn't stick out the side of the plane while I'm using the plane for non-shooting stuff):

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