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Finished this end table today, made in the style of the Next furniture that design council purchased previously. Base is simple mortice and tenon. The top was left overs from a bookcase I made before but was a bit narrow. Added so edging to it with some decorative 'dovetails' (be kind) I've not cut a dovetail since school, hoping to get more practice in future council approved jobs.


Oh yeah, also made some oak coasters out of scrap oak.

Added so edging to it with some decorative 'dovetails'
That edging could give you problems. The top will expand and contract in width with humidity changes and needs to be free to do so. The short side edging will restrict that movement and it could result in cracks or other problems. Good thing that could make this top survive is that it's not very wide so the movement will not be that big.
Talking of fixing up stuff I’ve been helping a mate out with a cupboard that the previous home owners dog had damaged, this was the cupboard side

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Cut out with a multitool

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Fettled with a chisel & a new piece glued & screwed in

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The same was true of the other side as was the bottom of the doors which had been cut off just below the handle.

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The problem with these was the original doors were sepele veneered chipboard but donkeys years of sunlight had faded them down to a teak colour. He was happy to go with any veneer as long as the colour ended up something like the others (there are 8 doors in total)
As I had plenty of Oak I opted for that & started by shooting the edges of the veneer with two straight pieces of MDF

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Which was then taped together.

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The original doors were 16mm thick so with 2x 0.6mm of veneer I needed some board 14.8mm thick, fortunately a good friend let me use his wide belt sander & some moisture resistant MDF was soon down to the required size.
After that it was just a case of gluing the veneer to the board with Aerolite & into the vacuum bag.

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The panels out of the bag & trimmed to size

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I cut the original doors in line with the trim so from the front the join was hidden & dominoed the two parts together, the panels got a coat of Morrells teak stain & hardwax oil.

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My mate was happy with the outcome, obviously the grain isn’t a match but it saved him changing 8 doors so he was well happy.
Nice job. But makes me wonder what kind of vicious dog did that in the first place to a cupboard! The owners must have kept something it liked in there! Or was the dog locked in? We will never know
Not so fast. The tin at the back left has those fancy small push sticks with the grippy ends favoured by @petermillard and featured in his latest members video at 10minuteworkshop.
Yes... you got me! But, I have yet to use them (that way)! :LOL:
I (still) have a lot of fingers, and don't want to risk damaging my good pencils! 🖐️
Not so much a thing I've made, but more a 'Heath Robinson ' assemblage. It is for bending the sides of a Hurdy Gurdy that I'm about to start building. And blow me it actually works! Though it is, in fact, the mark 2, as the mark 1 (that used a blow lamp) was a bit too fierce and scorched the wood. :giggle:


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Not so much a thing I've made, but more a 'Heath Robinson ' assemblage. It is for bending the sides of a Hurdy Gurdy that I'm about to start building. And blow me it actually works! Though it is, in fact, the mark 2, as the mark 1 (that used a blow lamp) was a bit too fierce and scorched the wood. :giggle:
Very clever!
I got fed up of the kids blocking the stairs when they're putting their shoes on so I designed and built a bench for our hallway. It's the first piece of furniture I've designed and built from scratch. Top and slats are oak. Frame is pine, painted white to match our staircase. The small inlay is a Jay from white maple (cut on my cheapo 3018 CNC).

Some things I learned from the build:

- Getting accurate mortice and tenons is tough. My joints were so loose on my first attempt that I ended up scrapping the whole frame and starting again.
- The angled legs made it much more difficult to get the frame completely square and the joints tight. There's probably some technique to this which I'm missing.
- I hate working with pine. It's so soft that the slightest ding leaves a permanent mark. I also felt like my chisels/plane irons were never sharp enough to cut pine end grain. Maybe I just need to work on my sharpening game.
- I got the slats to fit pretty well by routing a rebate in stretchers, putting the slats on the stretchers, then glueing equally sized wooden spacers such that the slats were flush with each one. Once the glue started to dry I carefully removed the slats so that the stretchers could be painted, then replaced the slats after painting for a nice flush fit. The video shows this.
- The plan was done in Fusion 360 and I found it very useful for being able to change one dimension and have all dependent dimensions be updated automatically.

Any tips (or criticism!) gratefully received. Very much still learning.

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Not as fine as yours but I made us a shoe rack recently. Beech and Iroko.
Not sure if this will work or even qualify.....

I was shopping for a bench sander and was surprised how many SLW tokens they cost...(Scottish Laughing Water) so turned my attention to a little used Bosch 3" belt sander and came up with this idea.

The aluminium chassis is quite thick at the front sides so a deep countersink gives a useful spot for an 8mm bolt in a threaded bracket to sit securely and an old lawnmower screw fitting sorts the other end. The dust collecting is helped by the little gutter, and no cooling vents have been obstructed.

As the belt gets 'clogged' I can hook another layer of 12/18mm ply over the front to raise the working area before I resort to a piece of crepe sole from an old pair of desert boots to clean out the abraded sawdust. The copper deflector stops the cooling air blowing in my eyes.

Think of the SLW tokens I've saved....Cheers!