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Using a bandsaw without rubber /polyurethane over the wheel?

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Prizen

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Hi All

Picked up an old second hand bandsaw today, Tauco is the brand. From the U.S. I think. It is good good for both wood and metal cutting, having a gearbox. It runs well, however, there is no rubber on the wheels. Just wondering what the implications of running without this? Assuming I might get by with the slower metal cutting speeds, but heat buildup might cause an issue when cutting wood?

Anybody any thoughts on where to get replacement rubber wheels for old or out of production bandsaws? thanks
 

RichardG

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I would have thought that’s a complete no no. Surely the tension of the blade will flatten the set of the teeth so you’ll end up with a blade that has no clearance and will then jam. Not sure about metal cutting blades though.
 

Pete Maddex

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It won't flatten the teeth,you would need to bend them past straight for them to return back to flat, Hooks law.
Grip might be a problem, any slippage will blunt the blade.

Pete
 

powertools

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I think that metal and wood cutting bandsaws are totally different.
My metal cutting saw has no tyres and the blade overhangs the wheels.
If it had tyres they would become embedded with metal in no time and would soon become useless for metal or wood.
 

Prizen

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Thanks guys. Will check the wheel to see how the blade teeth are positioned.
 

Myfordman

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powertools":3rm73saf said:
I think that metal and wood cutting bandsaws are totally different.
My metal cutting saw has no tyres and the blade overhangs the wheels.
If it had tyres they would become embedded with metal in no time and would soon become useless for metal or wood.
You could be right but my old Startrite 3 wheeler (18-s-1) could be supplied with a gearbox to make it 10 speed (18-s-10) spanning wood and metal cutting speeds. It uses moulded on hard rubber tyres. I achieve speed control by other means and use for both wood and metal including steel and very little metal ends up on the tyres.
 

RichardG

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Pete Maddex":1znjz75v said:
It won't flatten the teeth,you would need to bend them past straight for them to return back to flat, Hooks law.
Grip might be a problem, any slippage will blunt the blade.

Pete
I was always taught to keep a separate bandsaw blade for straight cuts as cutting curves alters the set of the teeth and will make the blade wander when trying to cut straight. Therefore I can’t see how this wouldn’t have some effect on the teeth set, unless the blade was set to overhand the wheel as mentioned. It’s also Hooke (but to be fair I can to look it up :D )

Richard
 

Lazurus

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My horizontal metal bandsaw has no rubber on the wheels and works a treat, as said before the rubber would be useless in a short while.
 

CHJ

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RichardG":2wtuwdj5 said:
I was always taught to keep a separate bandsaw blade for straight cuts as cutting curves alters the set of the teeth and will make the blade wander when trying to cut straight.
I have never understood this, a correctly positioned blade with adequate kerf clearance is in effect cutting a straight line with no twisting moment at all, the only time I have a blade start to drift in a cut is when the teeth on one side have been damaged with some foreign object in the wood.
 

RichardG

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CHJ":3l48v0sf said:
RichardG":3l48v0sf said:
I was always taught to keep a separate bandsaw blade for straight cuts as cutting curves alters the set of the teeth and will make the blade wander when trying to cut straight.
I have never understood this, a correctly positioned blade with adequate kerf clearance is in effect cutting a straight line with no twisting moment at all, the only time I have a blade start to drift in a cut is when the teeth on one side have been damaged with some foreign object in the wood.
Interesting, admittedly this was when I was an apprentice which is nearly 40 years ago....perhaps blades have improved since then? Old habits die hard though!
 
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