Both the tramming test, or this beam test would show variance of the wheel.
I was under the impression that it would show up wear of the bore
causing wheel wobble, as my saw was being very noisy, not cutting well atall,
and eventually spotting a temperamental loose bearing.
My wheel had 0.5mm variance of the front edge, well at least
I'm confident this is the case, speculation yet however.
You could do either, but just to clarify that I mean it's something necessary if wanting
to try aligning the wheels, unless you can come up with some clever way to use the
groove in the wheel either for alignment of the bottom wheel & motor to the upper one.
It's not a done thing BTW.
Here goes whatever you wanna call this pre-alignment test or.. wheel variance test?
Put four bits of tape on the wheel, 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock.
Find/prep an accurate piece of timber thick enough that the beam resting on it
will clear the chassis "waist" in between wheels.
It needs to be the right length to fit on the RHS of the machine
Make plug with PEN for the end cap of the beam.
Put a short bit tape down where the beam rests upright, now choose a few times on the clock
and see if it lands on that spot or line on the tape,
or if you get variables.
If you get a variable line you cannot trust the face of the wheel for alignment,
like these guys
See the timber is the right length to fit into the chassis on the RHS,
thick enough so the aluminium beam will clear the chassis,
and wide enough to skew the beam to draw a line.
Timber bumped up against the chassis makes life easier.
I ended up getting the exact same reading as before, so you'll have to wait until I do this test later
after filing the face of my upper wheel.
If it proves successful, then I'll do the bottom one also and then show this for real again.
One could speculate things might not be so straight forward, but hopefully any little niggles I've been looking for, but haven't found may get sorted.
Still haven't test run it though, and that's when things really become apparent.
If successful, then balancing might get ruled out, kept in mind for the very last thing on the list,
but not before tire dressing should it need a lick,
and tire edge dressing which is something I've been trying to research for a long time,
regarding saws specifically with true
flat tires.
(fore and aft movement, beam tension of stout blades, and a boat load of other stuff)
I'll hopefully get back to you soon, and finish up working on the saw.
There's not much left to do, and been stuck waiting for the wheel to get done, as
my motor is somewhat
Centaurolized, (adjustable concerning alignment)
for the flange mounted motor on my machine, so a differing approach to the foot mounted one below on the Minimax, but with the same adjustability to suit the upper wheel,
as there's no ability to skew it like the lower one.
Cheerio
Tom