Unflush joints with festool xl

[Wattsjoinerybarn]

I have both and have encountered similar issues in the past. It’s drove me crazy but it’s always only ever down to how you hold it! Just double check each time you put the machine down. It is always a hand held machine so hand held tolerances apply! Also end grain is harder to plunge so as I am sure you are doing! go extra slow.

If you are in any doubt it’s not the machine joint to pieces of mdf carelfully and you will see it stays flush. Also without a bevel on the cut line some sanding will always be required.

 

[Giles watts]

Maybe me but that's what they do. At least that's what mine does. I've figured if it's putting that domino in slightly skew even I whisker on a deep plunge and it's off thats double off. Its only hand held the tolerances aren't super tight.

There must be a way round it?

 

[Giles watts]

I have both and have encountered similar issues in the past. It’s drove me crazy but it’s always only ever down to how you hold it! Just double check each time you put the machine down. It is always a hand held machine so hand held tolerances apply! Also end grain is harder to plunge so as I am sure you are doing! go extra slow.

If you are in any doubt it’s not the machine joint to pieces of mdf carelfully and you will see it stays flush. Also without a bevel on the cut line some sanding will always be required.

Thanks for that I reckon you are right

 

[peter-harrison]

Using the smaller Domino machine, I've noticed that sometimes the slots are slanted-always the same way. I reckon it's to do with the rotation of the cutter, which makes it climb in one direction and drop in the other. I've tried to cure it by going in very slow, not ideal in production.
If you're having the same effect, it could cause what you've seen. I've attached a photo showing the difference, which would add up to nearly .5mm when the two slots are facing each other.

 

[Adam W.]

Blunt cutter following the grain possibly. I have heard that MDF is a bit of a foul language alert for dulling Domino cutters.

 

[Spectric]

There must be a way round it?

I assume you are using a sloppy setting which is overcoming any horizontal alignment issues which is my biggest problem but I don't get the problem you see with the face alignment. Had a look at my past info where I was trying to resolve my problems and the only time I got a face alignment issue was when the two pieces were not exactly the same thickness, in my case I had forgotten to run one part through the PT . If both parts are identical in thickness the location of the domino does not need to be exactly on the centre line providing you align both reference faces so any offset is in the same direction otherwise you will get your issue. As I said I use the tick system but when referencing from the base plate I also use masking tape and on it write "FACE UP" so now it is really obvious when making the joint and also on assembly because then you should see the tape on all four parts of the frame.

 

[Doug71]

I've had both Dominos for years and they still make me smile every time I use them, I find they make it effortless to produce a strong accurate joint.

Any inaccuracies have always been my own fault, the 500 is easiest to manage, as I said earlier the 700 can be a bit trickier if trying to balance it on smaller stock but it is fine on bigger stuff.

I don't know if some leave the factory not as accurate as others but both mine have always worked perfectly. If you aren't concentrating the cutter can ride up and to the right (especially with the 700) but if you keep a good grip on things this shouldn't happen. After I've cut the mortise I often do a second plunge which I think might help get the slot parallel to the face if the cutter has ridden up on the first cut (which it's more likely to do when removing a lot of material).

 

[johnnyb]

I'll try this

 

[Bodone]

I use the Seneca Domiplate whenever possible, seems to give a more 'robust' hold on my 500.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Using the smaller Domino machine, I've noticed that sometimes the slots are slanted-always the same way. I reckon it's to do with the rotation of the cutter, which makes it climb in one direction and drop in the other. I've tried to cure it by going in very slow, not ideal in production.
If you're having the same effect, it could cause what you've seen. I've attached a photo showing the difference, which would add up to nearly .5mm when the two slots are facing each other.

This is due to the edge of one the stop opening registering on the top surface rather than the foot. It is very easy to do if you put the face (with the cutter) against the edge of the work and slide down to register the foot with the surface. If you place the foot against the surface then slide in to the edge it never happens. Not sure if this is clear.

 

[peter-harrison]

This is due to the edge of one the stop opening registering on the top surface rather than the foot. It is very easy to do if you put the face (with the cutter) against the edge of the work and slide down to register the foot with the surface. If you place the foot against the surface then slide in to the edge it never happens. Not sure if this is clear.

Hi Paul, thanks but it's definitely not that- I was very careful, especially with the example I posted. There was a comment earlier about blunt cutters which I took onboard- going to get a nice new one and see how it goes.
Pete

 

[paulrbarnard]

Hi Paul, thanks but it's definitely not that- I was very careful, especially with the example I posted. There was a comment earlier about blunt cutters which I took onboard- going to get a nice new one and see how it goes.
Pete

Don’t discount it. It feels like it is properly seated but it isn’t. Might not be the case for you but I had exactly the same offset as you are seeing on the occasions it happened to me.

 

[Giles watts]

I've had both Dominos for years and they still make me smile every time I use them, I find they make it effortless to produce a strong accurate joint.

Any inaccuracies have always been my own fault, the 500 is easiest to manage, as I said earlier the 700 can be a bit trickier if trying to balance it on smaller stock but it is fine on bigger stuff.

I don't know if some leave the factory not as accurate as others but both mine have always worked perfectly. If you aren't concentrating the cutter can ride up and to the right (especially with the 700) but if you keep a good grip on things this shouldn't happen. After I've cut the mortise I often do a second plunge which I think might help get the slot parallel to the face if the cutter has ridden up on the first cut (which it's more likely to do when removing a lot of material).

Good shout on the 2nd plunge mate

 

[Spectric]

After I've cut the mortise I often do a second plunge which I think might help get the slot parallel to the face i

It might get it parallel but at the risk of being loose, probably not an issue on the 500 but with the 700 with greater plunge depth it could remove more material. Do you clamp the workpiece down or just have it against a stop that you push against ?

 

[Doug71]

It might get it parallel but at the risk of being loose, probably not an issue on the 500 but with the 700 with greater plunge depth it could remove more material. Do you clamp the workpiece down or just have it against a stop that you push against ?

It all depends on the size and shape of the workpiece as to whether I clamp it down or just use a stop.

 

[Doug71]

I've mentioned it before about pushing from the back of the 700 but will say it again as I took an action photo today. Instead of using the rear handle when plunging the 700 I push it from the back, sometimes using my hip to help push it. I feel when holding the handle there is more chance of lifting the back of the tool up or pushing it down and creating errors, to me it feels much more natural just pushing directly in line with the plunging action as below.

 

[Distinterior]

I've mentioned it before about pushing from the back of the 700 but will say it again as I took an action photo today. Instead of using the rear handle when plunging the 700 I push it from the back, sometimes using my hip to help push it. I feel when holding the handle there is more chance of lifting the back of the tool up or pushing it down and creating errors, to me it feels much more natural just pushing directly in line with the plunging action as below.

I adopt a very similar technique when using my DF500......The majority of the pressure applied is with my left hand, holding the front fence/handle down and flat to the surface of the material......As with cutting or machining any material,.ensuring the cutters are sharp also helps with the accuracy.

 

[mc281]

Hi all
Having trouble when making frames in tulip with the festool domino xl. Often the 2 pieces I'm joining aren't coming up flush on the face surface, see attached photo. Any tips? I plunge slow and steady. I've checked the fence is square, help!View attachment 166633

You look as though you're batch machining. Are you perhaps placing the piece twisted over? If the pocket isn't exactly in the middle you could be accidentally causing a mismatch.
If so try doing both plunges at the same time without twisting either piece over. If it still won't work then it's either machine set up or you!

 

[Spectric]

You need to put a lot of body mass onto the handle with the 700, I think taller people may have less issues with the 700 than short people becuase they can tower over it and maybe short people are using workbenches that are to high. Pushing from the rear like @Doug71 has shown does feel better than the handle which I find just reminds me of a hedge trimmer. It keeps the forward force not only more inline with the cutter but also low, the handle for me tends to impart a rotation left / right but not vertical as I am holding that handle down.

 

[Giles watts]

You look as though you're batch machining. Are you perhaps placing the piece twisted over? If the pocket isn't exactly in the middle you could be accidentally causing a mismatch.
If so try doing both plunges at the same time without twisting either piece over. If it still won't work then it's either machine set up or you!

Hi and no all surfaces are marked so I can't do it upside down. Really? Do u think anyone would be daft enough to do that?