Tell me how to build the easiest workbench possible

[GazPal]

Guys I need a workbench, but I am not willing to pay 200-300 for
such a thing. So either I need to buy second hand or make on myself.

Now when I think of building a workbench, I think of a flat wood/mdf top and four
legs and that's it. Seeing pictures of workbenches I noticed that there were many
extra pieces of woods, between the legs and in other parts. I am guessing that
just four legs is not enough stability. I have very little tools so I need to make a bench
that is super easy to make. Help is appreciated.

Thanks.

Your options are endless, but you could start by making a pair of trestles and use a sheet of 8'x4'x1" ply (Split down it's length) doubled in thickness, or a few lengths of 6"x2" (Glued edge to edge with bread boarded ends) faced with 0.5" ply for your worktop. Simple and inexpensive, but not as simple as providing 4 legs with stretchers linked via mortise and tenon joints or dowel bolts. A saw, hammer, jack plane, pencil, tape measure, square and couple of chisels are all you need if tooling is a limitation.

I'll point out that a bench for stock preparation using hand planes needs to be very stable, since the forces are high. Hand power-tools work doesn't need much more than a sturdy table (work can be held for routing by mere friction, hence the "router mat")

BugBear

Suitable bracing tends to negate problems and the some of the best examples can be found on site where bench construction tends to be limited to what i'd described, yet capable of supporting most handwork activities.

 

[Jacob]

Spotted this very trad brit bench on Paul Sellers site.
Planing beam at the front, well, and rail behind.
A double beam version (as found in school etc) would allow working from both sides.
Didn't know it was called a beam until BB posted about it.

The deep apron is good for bracing the bench itself and for support of workpieces. You can nail. screw, clamp, to it, to support work etc..

Dead simple, the ideal starter bench (or permanent for life bench!)

 

[bugbear]

A double beam version (as found in school etc) would allow working from both sides.
Didn't know it was called a beam until BB posted about it.

I only found that nomenclature in a single book, so it wasn't widespread, but did exist.

BugBear

 

[PaulO]

Not like this:
workbench-build-wip-t28134.html

Two and a bit years in and I still haven't completely finished it (although it is in use). I do love it though.

 

[Jacob]

That's three bench threads on the go so I'll post here. Kinsella post650613.html#p650613 seems committed to making a very complicated bench, not unlike PaulO's above. I've been wondering why.

I've just been browsing the Scott Landis book which is full of interesting stuff without a doubt - but everything is fussy and complicated - even where supposedly "basic" such as Ian Kirby's on page 80. The exceptions being the (over simple) planing beam or bench.

IMHO there is a huge omission - the basic Brit bench as per the Sellers one above. Thousands of these have been made and used for generations and most people learned on something similar. Oddly there is a note about the Workmate (useless IMHO) but absolutely no mention of the bench we all know and take for granted.
Bring back the British bench!

Is it British? I assume so, it seems to be based around the Record vice. Is the Record vice a very British thing? Are all the fussy benches due to the fact that they didn't have the Record vice in USA and Europe?

 

[cam]

Ali..I have a work table/bench that I built out of a solid core door for the top and 2x12 fringe and 2x6 legs and cross stretchers, and braces...works for me as a work table ...with the 12" fringe a vise could be installed... not kosher to the purists but if it works?? who cares?
total cost under $200

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I noted in Paul's bench build that the projected height was 39 1/2". Is that correct Paul? Either you are close to 7 foot tall, or this bench is not to be used with handtools.

I, too, am busy with a new bench. It is 18 years since my last one, and that is a relic from a power tool era. The build is yet to go on my website as a blog, but issues in deciding what to do, and some progress, may be found here: http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/ ... questions/

and here (today's post), where I mention bench height: http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/ ... o-another/

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Jacob]

I noted in Paul's bench build that the projected height was 39 1/2". Is that correct Paul? Either you are close to 7 foot tall, or this bench is not to be used with handtools.
...........

Mine's 33 1/2" (edited - I've just measured it!). I can raise it on blocks if necessary. I have done this in the past but I can't remember why I needed to. I keep the blocks handy and regularly rescue them from the firewood box.

Just had a look at Schwarzy's book. He has the "English" bench on page 21. More or less the same as Seller's example referred to above. It has splayed back legs, which seems an unnecessary detail to me. He says it has a "thin" top but this is entirely up to the maker - mine has a thick top. He also thinks the lack of dogs makes wide panels difficult to hold, but he is wrong - there are plenty of ways of holding a wide panel, and you can add as many dogs as you want. If you don't have an end vice then wedges against dogs will do the job. But in fact it's usually perfectly OK to work a panel against one dog at the vice end without holding it at all. Wider panel ditto but with a lath against the dog, nailed or screwed at the other end to make a long planing stop. I think you shouldn't be inhibited about a workbench - nailing and screwing into it are perfectly OK. If the bench is polished and precious then it's no use as a work bench.
He also suggests that aprons limit holding somehow, but I don't see this. The opposite in fact - the apron is handy to G clamp a workpiece to, when the other end is in the vice, or to nail/screw a block to to support a piece, or drill holes for pegs or holdfasts etc
He's also wrong about the Record vice; "guide bars interfere with clamping boards to work on edges and ends". In fact boards are easily held either way in the edge of the vice, which is usually extended with wooden jaws in any case.

Five essential accessories;
a pair of bench hooks,
a pair of saw trestles - a lot of work is more easily done at knee height, or a trestle can support the end of a long piece held in the vice,
an ammo box measuring 12 x 18 x 24" which works as a three height prop, and you can sit on it or carry tools in it.

PS Schwarzy's book is very good BTW. It's full of practical ideas - not that you need to take notice of all of them, or their details e.g. the planing board; I've been doing this for years but much more simply - basically nail a few laths to a piece of chipboard to work a panel against. The chipboard can have a batten under, to be held in the vice, or just have it up to a bench stop, or both. You can lay a cloth over the whole board if you want to plane a panel best face down.

 

[bugbear]

I've just been browsing the Scott Landis book which is full of interesting stuff without a doubt - but everything is fussy and complicated - even where supposedly "basic" such as Ian Kirby's on page 80.

It's a flat worktop on a rectilinear frame made with M&T joints, with a Record Q/R vise fixed on. How much simpler could it be?

BugBear

 

[marcros]

I've just been browsing the Scott Landis book which is full of interesting stuff without a doubt - but everything is fussy and complicated - even where supposedly "basic" such as Ian Kirby's on page 80.

It's a flat worktop on a rectilinear frame made with M&T joints, with a Record Q/R vise fixed on. How much simpler could it be?

BugBear

flat worktop on a rectilinear frame made with "no nails"?!! :mrgreen:

 

[Jacob]

I've just been browsing the Scott Landis book which is full of interesting stuff without a doubt - but everything is fussy and complicated - even where supposedly "basic" such as Ian Kirby's on page 80.

It's a flat worktop on a rectilinear frame made with M&T joints, with a Record Q/R vise fixed on. How much simpler could it be?

BugBear

The top appears to be made with about 36 pieces stuck side by side, the undercarriage has a very peculiar frame construction, and there is no apron (which is a weakness IMHO). Instead of aprons he has horizontal rails as bracing, which are otherwise redundant - a missed opportunity.
I count 50 components not counting wedges.
The "British" bench as per Seller's example has 12 components, which would make a better bench in a fraction of the time.

PS I agree with Kirby about one end-stop and a vice for almost everything, but not about not having a well. If planes stick up, as he says, then the well isn't deep enough.

 

[David C]

Just a few thoughts.

A top which is wider than about 16" will be very difficult to plane flat.

Aprons are not necessary and will prevent the use of clamps. A top from 3" hardwood is quite stiff enough, ex 4" might be considered ideal.

A removable or sliding tool well allows clamps to be used from the back edge of the front slab.

I would start taller than you think, legs can always be shortened. I am 6' 1" and my favorite bench is 40" high.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

 

[Harbo]

I use an ex school bench.
31" high, beech with a centre well, double "sided" with cupboard underneath. Fitted with a Woden vice.
Flat sided which can be a pain clamping sometimes but can be got round with other techniques?

Rod

 

[Jacob]

Just a few thoughts.
A top which is wider than about 16" will be very difficult to plane flat.
Aprons are not necessary and will prevent the use of clamps. A top from 3" hardwood is quite stiff enough, ex 4" might be considered ideal.
A removable or sliding tool well allows clamps to be used from the back edge of the front slab.
I would start taller than you think, legs can always be shortened. I am 6' 1" and my favorite bench is 40" high.
best wishes,
David Charlesworth

Agree abt the top - having a front "beam" say 12" max width, a well and a back rail is much easier to keep level than a one piece top.
I think aprons are essential mainly for clamping or otherwise supporting longer pieces held in the vice. Stops you using clamps on top yes, but lo and behold you simply manage without them! Most things I do on the top are not held at all, but just worked against stops if necessary. Built in stops or temporary screws, pinned on laths etc - or simpler variations on Schwarz's planing board.
Mines 33 1/2" but I have raised it on blocks on occasions.

 

[PaulO]

I noted in Paul's bench build that the projected height was 39 1/2". Is that correct Paul? Either you are close to 7 foot tall, or this bench is not to be used with handtools.

Yes it is correct (the bench height). I am 5'11", I arrived at the height after spending four weeks in David C's workshop. He has seven or eight benches of a similar design in various heights. I tried a few and found that I was most comfortable with a bench around 40", at 37" and lower I found my back hurt after a day of planing.

If I stand with my legs slightly apart in a planing "pose" with straight(ish) back then measure from elbow to floor it is about 44", deduct a bit (around 4") for plane height+handle and workpiece thickness. At that bench height your forearm is slightly below parallel with your hand slightly lower than elbow. If chopping out waste or marking out then I sit on quite a high stool. Paring in the vice leaves the arms at the same angle as planing.

In all the time of using it I can never say I have wished it was lower. If I had more space in my workshop I may build a lower assembly table.

Also bear in mind that there are more dimensions to the human body than height, I have short legs and a long body.

So Derek, how high is your workbench and how high from the bottom of your elbows to the floor?

 

[theartfulbodger]

Many years ago when the English Workbench was first designed and built were people on average shorter than they are today?
Old houses have lower doorways than new ones..

This might result in the traditional dimensions for workbenches being too short?

Just thinking out loud... #-o

 

[Jacob]

...... I tried a few and found that I was most comfortable with a bench around 40", at 37" and lower I found my back hurt after a day of planing.

Most unfamiliar exercise will hurt at first! Different after few weeks of planing.

If I stand with my legs slightly apart in a planing "pose" with straight(ish) back then measure from elbow to floor it is about 44", deduct a bit (around 4") for plane height+handle and workpiece thickness. At that bench height your forearm is slightly below parallel with your hand slightly lower than elbow.

This means you won't be able to put any weight behind your planing - so yes your back will find it easier but also your planing will be slower and your arms should ache.

If chopping out waste or marking out then I sit on quite a high stool.

Sitting down??? :shock: Not allowed. Not efficient unless you are doing very small things just in front of you

Paring in the vice leaves the arms at the same angle as planing.

Yes i suppose paring does want to be a bit higher, just below chin height perhaps? Hence the moxon vice, not that I've tried it but it looks a good idea. I've done similar things though

In all the time of using it I can never say I have wished it was lower.

Give it a few years and you will probably cut the legs off as I did. Mine must have been 40 ish and is now 33 1/2 and ideal. NB the refectory table style bottom rail is no good as it prohibits future adjustments. No point in it anyway - better (more solid) if the legs hit the floor direct.
I'm 5 11 too.

 

[David C]

I find the ability to clamp on my bench top indispensible. It seems that aprons are generally found on joiners' benches.

On my bench it is easy to support long work by clamping scrap to the face of the legs or the face of the rail. It is also possible to use a short sash cramp to fix to the front edge of the main slab.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

 

[bugbear]

I arrived at the height after spending four weeks in David C's workshop. He has seven or eight benches of a similar design in various heights. I tried a few...

Wow. The ultimate luxury. Most people have little choice than making a "best guess" and hoping.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

I find the ability to clamp on my bench top indispensible.

There are various alternatives - hold-fasts etc. Many manage with nothing. Personally I reserve G clamps for holding when doing dry runs or glue ups. I avoid holding workpieces as far as possible as it can leave marks on things being manipulated, particularly when morticing which is always best done loose on the worktop - unless you have a mortice stool (Ellis) in which case you hold down by sitting on it.

It seems that aprons are generally found on joiners' benches.

Not as far as I know. They are useful to furniture makers too, for all the same reasons.

On my bench it is easy to support long work by clamping scrap to the face of the legs or the face of the rail. It is also possible to use a short sash cramp to fix to the front edge of the main slab.

Mine too, plus the added advantage of the apron for a wider choice of supporting positions and methods. I see it as a vertical holding surface and a bench without it being at a disadvantage. Even the sliding deadman thing isn't quite as handy in some ways.