Stanley Bailey No 4 loose handle

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Shortening the threaded rod is indeed an option; though I've always preferred to leave the rod "original" and just add a washer or two as suggested by others.
You can't lengthen it later, and you might not have enough thread on it.
 
Cut a small piece out of a router pad and put it at the base of the handle. If one piece doesn't work, stack another one in there. Trim flush with a utility knife.

You can also pour water in the hole, with the handle off of course, let it sit a day or two and see if it swells the wood a little to make the fit tight again.
 
See image of a standard No 4 1/2 tote retaining screw
The thread has bottomed out inside the top brass screw nut. If when tightening it the handle is not securely gripped, then the thread has probably also bottomed out in the casting
Solution is to shorten the threaded portion slightly (either end in this case) or put a washer underneath the brass screw nut View attachment 157825
That's it precisely, try washers first then try slightly reducing the length of the thread at each end. This deals with the fact that the thread bottoms out in the blind holes.
 
See image of a standard No 4 1/2 tote retaining screw
The thread has bottomed out inside the top brass screw nut. If when tightening it the handle is not securely gripped, then the thread has probably also bottomed out in the casting
Solution is to shorten the threaded portion slightly (either end in this case) or put a washer underneath the brass screw nut View attachment 157825
Of course. I was thinking of a few I've seen where the nut is already bottomed out - shortening the top thread then would make no difference though shortening the bottom thread would.
 
I have used the shortening the threaded rod method on a couple of plane handles. Only takes a few minutes with a file. There is usually more threaded bit than you need in any case. A washer is just as good a fix if you can find something to fit. The best fix would be to build up the base of the handle by gluing on a strip of matching wood then trimming it to match the handle shape.
Regards
John
 
The aesthetical advantage of washers is that the nut will tighten closer to the top of the handle, without them it will sink to the bottom of the hole. If necessary, grind off a couple of threads.
 
Here a few photos. Do you mean instead of those 3 washers the presta valve nut ?
IMG_20230424_154656.jpg
IMG_20230424_154816.jpg
IMG_20230424_154834.jpg
 
To start with, just take the presta valve collar on slip it over the end of the threaded rod and slide it up to the 3 washers Put it all back together and see if it tightens up well. If the brass nut is sticking proud. Take it to pieces and remove 1 or more of the washers. If it is all Ok. Happy days. Job done
 
Hi all

I have above restored plane, but the handle wobbles a bit and I cannot tighten the screw any tighter. Any ideas?
this is very common - the wood has shrunk and there's a lot of pressure where the screw seats at the top of the stud. all you need to do is file a few mm off the end of the stud that goes through the handle and tighten
 
To start with, just take the presta valve collar on slip it over the end of the threaded rod and slide it up to the 3 washers Put it all back together and see if it tightens up well. If the brass nut is sticking proud. Take it to pieces and remove 1 or more of the washers. If it is all Ok. Happy days. Job done
It's a funny sized hole/bore and finding washers to fit is not easy. Hence the presta valve ring nut suggestion, which just happens to fit perfectly.
 
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Hi all
I just wanted to give some feedback. I have looked at it hard and closely and decided to give the easiest option a go-the presta valve ring. I took the 3 washers off though and just fitted that. It worked ! :D Rocksolid now. Thanks all for your input !!
 
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