Veritas marking gauge looses its setting

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tibi

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Hello,

I have a Veritas marking gauge ( the version in the image below). I like it very much, but it often looses its setting, so the main knob gets loose. I have to recheck the distance every few passes. I tighten every other knob prior to setting the distance and I use only the main knob in the front to change the setting. Is there any remedy how to make it grip tighter. It is no longer under warranty period.

Thank you.
1683619247017.png
 
Hello,

I have a Veritas marking gauge ( the version in the image below). I like it very much, but it often looses its setting, so the main knob gets loose. I have to recheck the distance every few passes. I tighten every other knob prior to setting the distance and I use only the main knob in the front to change the setting. Is there any remedy how to make it grip tighter. It is no longer under warranty period.

Thank you.
View attachment 158789
I wouldn't waste much time on your Veritas gadget - traditional wooden marking gauges are more reliable, much nicer/easier to use, and cheap. It's useful to have several on hand as they tend to get referred back to as work progresses, so you can leave them on the same settings for the duration of the job.
I used to spend a lot of time marking up on big orders.
 
Terrible design but with having two key features what's useful, dropping down and a fair bit of surface area compared to some, micro adjust doesn't make sense with such smooth action,
and that design makes the wheel wobbly.

If I had known the stem was made from Parker pen thickness tubing, I would have got the cheaper one with solid shaft and made an offset Glenn Drake type deal.
Two screws seems like it makes a huge difference, well it does for the knockoff Titemark which doesn't drop down,
and has a loose shaft by comparison, not so smooth finish on the stem, and sloppy v slot which needs to be aligned carefully.

Yet to see something equivalently priced with those features which is decent.
Can the stems be bought from anywhere, might be worth seeking some supplier who sells silver steel and brass plate.
It's worth noting the Veritas cutters cost something like a quid or two.

Not got an answer for improving the tool, sorry.

Tom
 
Hello,

I have a Veritas marking gauge ( the version in the image below). I like it very much, but it often looses its setting, so the main knob gets loose. I have to recheck the distance every few passes. I tighten every other knob prior to setting the distance and I use only the main knob in the front to change the setting. Is there any remedy how to make it grip tighter. It is no longer under warranty period.

Thank you.
View attachment 158789
Hi 👋 I can only assume the brass screw has worn slightly or the thread within the body of the gauge has failed possibly due to a manufacturing issue or over tightening. You could try to source a replacement screw from axi . A more drastic option would be re tapping to the next size up. I have the same gauge but not used it loads .
 
....
It's worth noting the Veritas cutters cost something like a quid or two.

...
It's worth noting that you will never need a new pin or cutter for a trad marking gauge. They last for life. Several in fact!
 
Hi 👋 I can only assume the brass screw has worn slightly or the thread within the body of the gauge has failed possibly due to a manufacturing issue or over tightening. You could try to source a replacement screw from axi . A more drastic option would be re tapping to the next size up
The issue is that the thin walled stem is highly polished.
 
I'm just glad that my tail vise and shoulder vise kit is top notch in both precision and heftiness.
Really got caught off guard with this though
Not sure if you can "drop down" with the cheapos, if anything like the old Axi titemark knockoff, you can't simply swap out the cutter either.

Money to be made for a toolmaker here, unless two locking screws is seen as ripping off Mr Drake?
 
Hi 👋 I can only assume the brass screw has worn slightly or the thread within the body of the gauge has failed possibly due to a manufacturing issue or over tightening. You could try to source a replacement screw from axi . A more drastic option would be re tapping to the next size up. I have the same gauge but not used it loads .
The thread is ok, and it can be tightened as much as possible without any issue with the thread. I think that the problem is the contact area between the stem and the screw.
 
The thread is ok, and it can be tightened as much as possible without any issue with the thread. I think that the problem is the contact area between the stem and the screw.
You're persistence with this tool is inspiring :giggle:
I wonder if it may be possible to find a sleeve for it, to act as a gib,
if it were possible and feesable to source thin wall tubing to stuff into the body..


Perhaps @Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) can mention why he made a single thumbscrewed wheel cutter marking gauge, and whether it slips if used somewhat heavy handed,
or if graphite might be on ones hands?
IIRC he's made one of those before
 
I have this one, the setting knob looks very similar however the rods are solid. I've not had an issue with it loosening or slipping once set, and I've definitely dropped it mid project and can't recall it moving. Perhaps it i the hollow rod design that is the problem.
Veritas Dual Marking Gauge : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
 
Interesting how people fall for expensive over-designed gadgety gadgets with brass knobs!
I'd bin them and get wooden versions - with wood or plastic knob, or slotted screw adjuster for the mortice gauge variety.
 
You can always make your own.
johns pics 003.JPGjohns pics 005.JPGjohns pics 006.JPG
I made that pair over 10 years ago and they still work fine. I like to have a few around as it saves having to try and go back to a previous setting.
Among the shop bought gauges I do have a brass and steel one but its a Chinese made one. Never given me any trouble however. Perhaps a good clean with white spirit may help as any oils from your hands may have got on the stem and be reducing friction when the screw is done up. You could even give the end of the locking screw a rub with sandpaper.
Regards
John
 
Metal-on-metal gauges slip, and then some not terribly bright people wipe the rod down with an oily rag sealing the gauge's fate, not always understanding how crucial it is that a gauge should have zero chance of moving. Worse yet, the gauge moves a little, you don't realize it, process to the incorrectly gauged line and ruin an essential workpiece -- matched for grain, color, etc. by producing it to the wrong dimension. Why one would take the slightest chance is beyond me -- you have to love the tool more than what you're doing with it.

Some have grooves, plastic compression rings and slips, whatever. They don't always work.

Nothing really beats wooden marking and cutting gauges.
 
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I have an old metal marking gauge, it doesn't have a disc cutter at the end like the Veritas, but a pin. but it also suffers from the same fault - in that I can't reliably tighten it

One of my other gauges - a wooden mortising one- has an intermediary plug of plastic inserted between the screw and the shaft. which is to protect the brass slider mechanism from damage.

You might be able to use this same method, and experiment with various materials to try and improve the holding power
 
I have an old metal marking gauge, it doesn't have a disc cutter at the end like the Veritas, but a pin. but it also suffers from the same fault - in that I can't reliably tighten it

One of my other gauges - a wooden mortising one- has an intermediary plug of plastic inserted between the screw and the shaft. which is to protect the brass slider mechanism from damage.

You might be able to use this same method, and experiment with various materials to try and improve the holding power
The Marples mortice gauge with slotted screw adjuster has a steel button for the same reason. It gets get lost easily if you don't know its there. OTOH if the brass looks a bit marked you know it's missing.
 
Thanks for the replies. I am going to make some traditional gauges, too. But they are still on the long todo list. I have already made a pannel gauge and bought a few of hardened concrete nails for pins.
 
Like Andy said. Contact Lee Valley customer service and explain the situation to them. They are very good about standing behind their products even when well out of the warranty period. They have made price adjustments and refunded money when the suppliers dropped a price part way through the year. They have also offered and sent out improved parts for tools they make without being asked. I remember them sending an Aussie a free steel rule when by mistake he ordered an imperial scale instead of the metric one he wanted. I'm pretty sure they will take care of you.

Pete
 

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