Replacing a DG unit.

[MikeJhn]

When measuring anything always use millimetre's no chance of confusion.

Just had twenty four DG units replaced in our old house, two guys four hours, not bad I thought, anyone in Kent I can recommend "D & G Glazing"

 

[John Brown]

I use a Stanley blade or a very flexible scraper to run around the beading next to the glass. This cuts through the silicone. I then use a glazing knife or glazing hacking knife and force it in between the frame and the glazing bead. I usually try to push it in either end and in the middle, or between where I think the nail pins will be located. usually takes a bit of effort to start lifting the beading. The Hacking knife is hammered to cut the nails for the first head.
If you have cut the silicone against the glass the bead will pop out in one piece. The remaining beading is rinse and repeats and are usually very very easy compared to the first one that’s usually sprung in.
I usually try and start with the longest side which allows the beading to flex enough to come out of the mitres in the corners.

Thanks! I sharpened up a flexible scraper, works a treat. Got both long sides out intact. I may make new ones anyway, if I'm making the bottom one.
I don't have a hacking knife(I did have one, 50 years ago) and last time I tried to buy one I couldn't find such a thing. I'll ask at my wonderful local hardware store when I get out of the dentist's...

 

[Noel]

Quarter Moon window knife works well. Cheap one is a 5er or so.

This:

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I don't have a hacking knife(I did have one, 50 years ago) and last time I tried to buy one I couldn't find such a thing. I'll ask at my wonderful local hardware store when I get out of the dentist's...

You could have asked the dentist to lend you his.

 

[John Brown]

Good point, but twas a her!

 

[John Brown]

So, Deema came up trumps. All the exterior beads are out, and I'm confident regarding getting the fogged unit out.
Next stage is finding a supplier of DG units, who doesn't want to fit it... My neighbour recommends Roman Glass in Stroud, but they seem to have a longish lead time, does any local Gloucestershire person have any recommendations?

 

[John Brown]

When measuring anything always use millimetre's no chance of confusion.

Just had twenty four DG units replaced in our old house, two guys four hours, not bad I thought, anyone in Kent I can recommend "D & G Glazing"

That's impressive. Luckily there are people like me to bring the average down a bit. I've probably spent the best part of four hours on this one unit. Still, what else would I be doing?

 

[John Brown]

Well, I did the job today, and I think it went well, but the Flexistrip just falls off raw oak.(sticks to itself like 5h1t to a blanket..) so I used the silicone, luckily had just about enough. Should I have applied something to the oak to make the Flexistrip stick, or is it simply the wrong stuff?

 

[Doug71]

Well, I did the job today, and I think it went well, but the Flexistrip just falls off raw oak.(sticks to itself like 5h1t to a blanket..) so I used the silicone, luckily had just about enough. Should I have applied something to the oak to make the Flexistrip stick, or is it simply the wrong stuff?

RTFM

Sorry only joking, but yes the timber needs to be primed or base stained as it mentions in the data sheet.

https://www.hodgsondirect.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Flexistrip-PDS.pdf

 

[John Brown]

My mistake. Looking back through this thread, someone did use the word "primed". I must have missed it amongst all the other advice. If I end up having to redo it, what sort of "base stain" or primer would I use on bare oak?

 

[Fergie 307]

When measuring anything always use millimetre's no chance of confusion.

Just had twenty four DG units replaced in our old house, two guys four hours, not bad I thought, anyone in Kent I can recommend "D & G Glazing"

I had a mare with a small fanlight window in our porch. Had the unit (plastic one) supplied by a local company to fit myself, but blowed if I could work out how to get the very short beads in the top window. They were happy to send someone round, and according to the boss it took him about a minute, wish I'd been there to see how he did it.

 

[Doug71]

My mistake. Looking back through this thread, someone did use the word "primed". I must have missed it amongst all the other advice. If I end up having to redo it, what sort of "base stain" or primer would I use on bare oak?

I made an Oak window a while ago which was going to be oiled, I presumed the Flexistrip wouldn't stick to the oil so I gave the rebates and back of beads a coat of clear acrylic external varnish, that seemed to work, the flexistrip stuck to it anyway.

 

[John Brown]

Thanks. I'll bear that in mind. The old unit was fixed entirely with silicone, which is a right pipper to remove entirely from the wood, but I guess it's possible.

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

When removing glazing beads, to avoid damage to both bead and frame edges slip 2 wide filler knives (i like the very thin car body ones) into the gap between frame and bead, working them in one at a time. Then use leverage between the two usually a blunt chisel to remove the bead. works really well as it protects the timber edges and spreads the force.

 

[Tortoise]

So, Deema came up trumps. All the exterior beads are out, and I'm confident regarding getting the fogged unit out.
Next stage is finding a supplier of DG units, who doesn't want to fit it... My neighbour recommends Roman Glass in Stroud, but they seem to have a longish lead time, does any local Gloucestershire person have any recommendations?

Friend (single lady) just used Roman Glass from Swindon for the entire task. Two calls - one to measure and one to fit. Some delay of a few days to get the unit made. Roman were suggested / recommended by a long established local painter. Doesn't match your specific need but at least a nod for the company.

 

[John Brown]

Yes, I used Roman Glass to supply the unit. Just under two weeks lead time. No complaints, I will use them next time.

 

[Housey210]

Butyl Tape

 

[John Brown]

Butyl Tape

It was more a case of futyl tape for me - see earlier post...

 

[deema]

I r used security tape on bare oak without issue, like most hardwoods just give it a wipe over with a degreaser and it sticks! It’s a nightmare to remove when you need to replace a glazed unit, scraping it off the wood.
Silicone I just scrape off with a chisel dragged over it, quick and easy.
No chisels are harmed in this process

 

[John Brown]

So.....
Now the colder weather has arrived - shock horror! My new DG unit is covered in condensation(on the room face of the inner pane), while the panels on either side of it are clear.
I'm 99.9% certain I didn't damage the blighter(I handled it as I would a Ming vase), and anyway, the unit I removed was definitely not sealed anymore, as it had condensation between the panes, but nothing noticeable on the room side of the inner pane.
I'm hoping that this is some sort of cold/thermal bridging issue. Maybe I didn't do a good enough job with the silicone? Maybe there's a void(or several) somewhere filling with moisture and bridging the outside temperature to the inner pane?
Anyone seen or heard of this before?