John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
Kindle?
Post a photo of the last thing you made
- Thread starter DTR
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Some BP stuff
The picture frames are tricky to join in this fashion. Traditional framers wedges will just split the layers. I used a Hoffman dovetailer and the larger frames were also reinforced with splines
The picture frames are tricky to join in this fashion. Traditional framers wedges will just split the layers. I used a Hoffman dovetailer and the larger frames were also reinforced with splines
Nope... it's just not the same
Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
The Australian Wood Review Competition is both for builders in Australia and internationally. There are categories for furniture, boxes, etc. Link: Australian Wood Review - Australian Wood Review Entries closed today, and at the last minute I added one more.
Earlier, I entered the floating bedside tables, which were the subject of a build here ...
The competition places a focus on design, and I thought that I would enter one other piece which I have recently been (re-) working on .. a work in progress that lasted longer than I imagined - it was an unusual piece and I struggled to find a satisfactory composition. For the competition (which must have a name), it is called "Curves" ...
This console table features Jarrah, Karri, and Kauri timbers. "Curves" comes from the the absence of any straight sections (other than the drawer sides).
The idea for the table began to ferment in 2011, a time when I was fascinated with coopered barrels. I subsequently started making coopered doors for an entertainment unit, and then could not use them as the solid, 6mm thick curves were too heavy to be practical. With nearly-closed eyes I could visualise a table with curved table legs .... and then it took 12 years to design the remainder: the curved aprons, the curved drawer front, the curved and tapered table top. The leg sections are frame-and-coopered panels.
The panels are (ex-roofing) Karri stained to match the remainder of the carcase, which is Jarrah. The table top features a soft curve, along with pillowed edges to avoid hardness. The drawer is dovetailed with Kauri sides and bottom held with slips.
Dimensions: The top is 900 x 380mm. Height is 690mm. The cabinet section is 520 x 110mm
Its resting place at home ...
Regards from Perth
Derek
Earlier, I entered the floating bedside tables, which were the subject of a build here ...
The competition places a focus on design, and I thought that I would enter one other piece which I have recently been (re-) working on .. a work in progress that lasted longer than I imagined - it was an unusual piece and I struggled to find a satisfactory composition. For the competition (which must have a name), it is called "Curves" ...
This console table features Jarrah, Karri, and Kauri timbers. "Curves" comes from the the absence of any straight sections (other than the drawer sides).
The idea for the table began to ferment in 2011, a time when I was fascinated with coopered barrels. I subsequently started making coopered doors for an entertainment unit, and then could not use them as the solid, 6mm thick curves were too heavy to be practical. With nearly-closed eyes I could visualise a table with curved table legs .... and then it took 12 years to design the remainder: the curved aprons, the curved drawer front, the curved and tapered table top. The leg sections are frame-and-coopered panels.
The panels are (ex-roofing) Karri stained to match the remainder of the carcase, which is Jarrah. The table top features a soft curve, along with pillowed edges to avoid hardness. The drawer is dovetailed with Kauri sides and bottom held with slips.
Dimensions: The top is 900 x 380mm. Height is 690mm. The cabinet section is 520 x 110mm
Its resting place at home ...
Regards from Perth
Derek
Jester129
Established Member
Beautiful work as usual. Thankyou for showing it to us, love it and the bedside tables. They deserve prizes in my opinion.
Beautiful, but I don't like the knife lines on the dovetails.
Bigbadmarky
Established Member
Mitred box made from ebonised oak with brass splines
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I thought that was the glue line where Derek glued them on.
Don't laugh. My friend builds like that, fake dovetails. Cuts side board then glues 5 little pieces together so looks like a dove tail, then dowels front to side pieces.I thought that was the glue line where Derek glued them on.
Max Power
Established Member
Not a complete item yet, but a set of spokes for two horse carriage wheels.
Thirty three in total, sixteen per wheel plus a spair
Thirty three in total, sixteen per wheel plus a spair
Well if you can build like that. You need to get the wife to stop shopping at the yellow and blue store!
But, what is it ? - It's a "Thing ummy bob."
Well, to be more precise, it's a wooden swage block, that I hope will allow me to bend silver into a tube, so I can make a sterling silver ferrule. I will definitely have to practise on some 1mm brass sheet first to see if it works. I mean, what could possibly go wrong?
Well, to be more precise, it's a wooden swage block, that I hope will allow me to bend silver into a tube, so I can make a sterling silver ferrule. I will definitely have to practise on some 1mm brass sheet first to see if it works. I mean, what could possibly go wrong?
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cowtown_eric
Established Member
a job for the church polishing brass.
had to thread the tapered thing-a-ma-jig to hold the buffing wheel 5/8 x11tpi left handed tap---only had 12 of em to buff up.
and you might have thought cabinet making was only about wood-butchery!!!1
Eric in the colonies
had to thread the tapered thing-a-ma-jig to hold the buffing wheel 5/8 x11tpi left handed tap---only had 12 of em to buff up.
and you might have thought cabinet making was only about wood-butchery!!!1
Eric in the colonies
It doesn't look like meBut, what is it ? - It's a "Thing ummy bob."
Well, to be more precise, it's a wooden swage block, that I hope will allow me to bend silver into a tube, so I can make a sterling silver ferrule. I will definitely have to practise on some 1mm brass sheet first to see if it works. I mean, what could possibly go wrong?
View attachment 166320
Yes you are missing the y ummy part! Lol.It doesn't look like me
Paul200
Established Member
I'm guessing this is an occasional table. It's for our hall and won't get used for coffee - more likely handbags, keys and the post. I'm not a fan of 'river' tables, having seen so many terrible examples and being averse to ruining beautiful wood with resin, but I liked the look of a Tim Stead piece that had the river without the resin - a dry river bed, I suppose.
The top is Elm that was felled about 2 miles away and the undercarriage is Elm from the same tree with Black Walnut legs. I used Patina as the finish for the first time and, although impressed with it's obvious hardwearing qualities, am not in love with the glossiness after three coats. I'm hoping it will tone down with use.
The top is Elm that was felled about 2 miles away and the undercarriage is Elm from the same tree with Black Walnut legs. I used Patina as the finish for the first time and, although impressed with it's obvious hardwearing qualities, am not in love with the glossiness after three coats. I'm hoping it will tone down with use.
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George of the Wood
Member
Paul200,
Nice looking table. You can always cut the gloss by going over it with some steel wool (#0000, or rougher) followed up with wax.
Paul200
Established Member
Thanks George. I thought that, but was concerned that the wax may negate the stain resistant features of Patina. I'll see how it goes and maybe use wire wool/wax down the line. Stains shouldn't be a worry really because, after all, it isn't a coffee table
