L M Joinery
Established Member
How about this for a flight of stairs that I started building earlier this year. Its not yet complete its just a project of many.
Post a photo of the last thing you made
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How about this for a flight of stairs that I started building earlier this year. Its not yet complete its just a project of many.
Doug B
Shy Tot
A pair of gates I hung today between the rain showers
All traditional mortise & tenoned joints though the mortises were all cut with the domino
Including the through wedged ones, the tapers being cut with a chisel
The 18mm matchboarding had a tongue cut on the top to house it into the frame
which got a couple of coats of Sikkens prior to final assembly
All traditional mortise & tenoned joints though the mortises were all cut with the domino
Including the through wedged ones, the tapers being cut with a chisel
The 18mm matchboarding had a tongue cut on the top to house it into the frame
which got a couple of coats of Sikkens prior to final assembly
L M Joinery
Established Member
Very nice job Doug, and with the Sikkens they should last many years.
danst96
Established Member
Work in progress on my bar, been a slow burn but cabinets and drawers all done, just waiting for finish. White oak drawer fronts and solid maple drawer boxes, maple veneer cabinets. Busy completing the top and then onto plumbing and electrics and trying to figure out the panel for the dishwasher which I've been burying my head in the sand about. Floor needs attention too.
danst96
Established Member
Another small, easy and quick job done for my wife, walnut shelf. Need to plug the screw holes but you can't really see them because of the height it's at.
Thought a bench hook would be a good (and useful) project to do with dovetails.
The rear fence was meant to be dovetailed too, however the joint was too tight and it split
so I used domino's to secure it instead.
Cut below the line with the fret saw unfortunately, but still turned out alright.
The rear fence was meant to be dovetailed too, however the joint was too tight and it split
so I used domino's to secure it instead.Cut below the line with the fret saw unfortunately, but still turned out alright.
morten_1
Member
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That's a really good tip!
danst96
Established Member
First attempt at ebonizing, red oak. Will be going with an Osmo hard wax on the top. Been using Osmo for years and it seems to hold up well on most applications and is very water resistant when maintained.
The sapwood adds an interesting detail I wasn't anticipating but I like.
Placed the tap there too get an idea of how it looks.
The sapwood adds an interesting detail I wasn't anticipating but I like.
Placed the tap there too get an idea of how it looks.
Phill05
Established Member
This is woodwork related but made out of metal, I have some very small 3mm stepped rounds to cut on a wooden clock that I am making I had a look at the offerings for sale but they are mostly made out of plastic unless you want to pay big bucks I had the idea to make this to help out, looking for some returns springs I found on line I placed an order then found out yes you guessed it they are coming from China so now got to wait a few weeks to finish it.
Years ago (45?) one Sunday I dropped a spring off something I was repairing down a drain. In those days of course absolutely nowhere was open Sundays, so I went to the Kawasaki dealer on the Monday and paid 85p for the replacement spring. Three days later I went into Halfords for some reason and picked up a bag of 100 mixed springs for 75p. From that day on I bought boxes and bags of anything useful that came along - I have everything from grub screws to springs, penny washers, helicoils, circlips, O rings, spade connectors and 150mm masonry screws.
SammyQ
Established Member
Please, pretty please, Phil, can we see your methodical, ordered, well-thought-out storage?
Three more whistles recently finished. Thinner walls than the last lot ( 2.65mm). It has made a bit of a difference to the sound. I'm going to try and be a bit more ordered and accurate with the next lot . The first is Blackwood, followed by Pear and Padauk.
. The first is Blackwood, followed by Pear and Padauk.
Have you not got a pair in your router you could borrow to get the job done most routers have return springs in
Phill05
Established Member
No they are too wide I need 8mm dia ones.
SammyQ
Established Member
Whew!! Just like the rest of us! Good man, Phil.
MorrisWoodman12
Established Member
Wow! How on earth do you fashion those? And how do you know where to place the finger holes?Three more whistles recently finished. Thinner walls than the last lot ( 2.65mm). It has made a bit of a difference to the sound. I'm going to try and be a bit more ordered and accurate with the next lot
View attachment 163942View attachment 163944View attachment 163945
Martin
It has been a bit of a journey, working out how to make them, especially forming the wooden tubes - which I do on the metalworking lathe. I started out copying one I have in my collection. Which gave me most of the pointers I needed.
I've since discovered Hans Bracker's, "Whistle and Flute Hole Calculator", so I can be a lot more scientific in my approach to those I'm working on at present. An electronic tuner also helps greatly.
Can you tune them once you have made them or is it a one shot chance?It has been a bit of a journey, working out how to make them, especially forming the wooden tubes - which I do on the metalworking lathe. I started out copying one I have in my collection. Which gave me most of the pointers I needed.
I've since discovered Hans Bracker's, "Whistle and Flute Hole Calculator", so I can be a lot more scientific in my approach to those I'm working on at present. An electronic tuner also helps greatly.
I have a lovely six hole sweetheart flute which I bought back in the 80’s. The tone and resonance of the sound is amazing, much more mellow than from a metal flute. You can actually feel the sound in your fingers as you play it.
Wood is such a fantastic material for a musical instrument
It is the size of the hole that allows you to tune it. So, if you start with under-sized holes, you can ream them out until you hit the note. Make the hole too big and you've wrecked it - unless, of course you start adding fillers.
I would have to agree about the sound the wood imparts. I find each of the woods I use makes for a different sounding instrument. I recently made a hit-list of about 30 species of timber I could possibly use for making them though certain inherent characteristics may well rule them out. Apparently, Cocobolo, is one that certain makers avoid using. Most of the commonly used ones are quite high up in the Janka hardness scale.
