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How about this for a flight of stairs that I started building earlier this year. Its not yet complete its just a project of many.
 
A pair of gates I hung today between the rain showers

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All traditional mortise & tenoned joints though the mortises were all cut with the domino

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Including the through wedged ones, the tapers being cut with a chisel

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The 18mm matchboarding had a tongue cut on the top to house it into the frame

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which got a couple of coats of Sikkens prior to final assembly

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A pair of gates I hung today between the rain showers

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All traditional mortise & tenoned joints though the mortises were all cut with the domino

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Including the through wedged ones, the tapers being cut with a chisel

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The 18mm matchboarding had a tongue cut on the top to house it into the frame

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which got a couple of coats of Sikkens prior to final assembly

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Very nice job Doug, and with the Sikkens they should last many years.
 
Work in progress on my bar, been a slow burn but cabinets and drawers all done, just waiting for finish. White oak drawer fronts and solid maple drawer boxes, maple veneer cabinets. Busy completing the top and then onto plumbing and electrics and trying to figure out the panel for the dishwasher which I've been burying my head in the sand about. Floor needs attention too.

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Well done on the dovetails. Most of the gaps tend to get hidden after the glue up and trimming up with a plane. That and the more you do the better they get. Best tip I ever got on dovetails was make the pins and tails a smidgen longer than the thickness of the board so you can pare them back flush.
Regards
John
That's a really good tip!
 
First attempt at ebonizing, red oak. Will be going with an Osmo hard wax on the top. Been using Osmo for years and it seems to hold up well on most applications and is very water resistant when maintained.

The sapwood adds an interesting detail I wasn't anticipating but I like.

Placed the tap there too get an idea of how it looks.

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This is woodwork related but made out of metal, I have some very small 3mm stepped rounds to cut on a wooden clock that I am making I had a look at the offerings for sale but they are mostly made out of plastic unless you want to pay big bucks I had the idea to make this to help out, looking for some returns springs I found on line I placed an order then found out yes you guessed it they are coming from China so now got to wait a few weeks to finish it.

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Years ago (45?) one Sunday I dropped a spring off something I was repairing down a drain. In those days of course absolutely nowhere was open Sundays, so I went to the Kawasaki dealer on the Monday and paid 85p for the replacement spring. Three days later I went into Halfords for some reason and picked up a bag of 100 mixed springs for 75p. From that day on I bought boxes and bags of anything useful that came along - I have everything from grub screws to springs, penny washers, helicoils, circlips, O rings, spade connectors and 150mm masonry screws. :LOL:
 
This is woodwork related but made out of metal, I have some very small 3mm stepped rounds to cut on a wooden clock that I am making I had a look at the offerings for sale but they are mostly made out of plastic unless you want to pay big bucks I had the idea to make this to help out, looking for some returns springs I found on line I placed an order then found out yes you guessed it they are coming from China so now got to wait a few weeks to finish it.

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Have you not got a pair in your router you could borrow to get the job done most routers have return springs in
 
Wow! How on earth do you fashion those? And how do you know where to place the finger holes?
Martin
It has been a bit of a journey, working out how to make them, especially forming the wooden tubes - which I do on the metalworking lathe. I started out copying one I have in my collection. Which gave me most of the pointers I needed.
I've since discovered Hans Bracker's, "Whistle and Flute Hole Calculator", so I can be a lot more scientific in my approach to those I'm working on at present. An electronic tuner also helps greatly. :giggle:
 
It has been a bit of a journey, working out how to make them, especially forming the wooden tubes - which I do on the metalworking lathe. I started out copying one I have in my collection. Which gave me most of the pointers I needed.
I've since discovered Hans Bracker's, "Whistle and Flute Hole Calculator", so I can be a lot more scientific in my approach to those I'm working on at present. An electronic tuner also helps greatly. :giggle:
Can you tune them once you have made them or is it a one shot chance?
I have a lovely six hole sweetheart flute which I bought back in the 80’s. The tone and resonance of the sound is amazing, much more mellow than from a metal flute. You can actually feel the sound in your fingers as you play it.
Wood is such a fantastic material for a musical instrument
 
Can you tune them once you have made them or is it a one shot chance?
I have a lovely six hole sweetheart flute which I bought back in the 80’s. The tone and resonance of the sound is amazing, much more mellow than from a metal flute. You can actually feel the sound in your fingers as you play it.
Wood is such a fantastic material for a musical instrument
It is the size of the hole that allows you to tune it. So, if you start with under-sized holes, you can ream them out until you hit the note. Make the hole too big and you've wrecked it - unless, of course you start adding fillers.:)
I would have to agree about the sound the wood imparts. I find each of the woods I use makes for a different sounding instrument. I recently made a hit-list of about 30 species of timber I could possibly use for making them though certain inherent characteristics may well rule them out. Apparently, Cocobolo, is one that certain makers avoid using. Most of the commonly used ones are quite high up in the Janka hardness scale.
 
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