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I don't post much in this thread, despite viewing it often!
I have, however, just completed a desk for my daughter's new home office. Custom size was 190cm x 60cm and it is oak.

This is glue up. I've routed a bull nose to the front edge.


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Coated with Osmo matt clear
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and delivered with her choice of legs
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and I made her a matching monitor stand as well.

monitor stand.jpg


The drawers are her own (Ikea) and i added the upstand to complete the look.
 
something tuned up? does that count? just given this 1956?? ( I think based on the xxxxx stamp on the skew arm and one-peice frog yoke) plane a sharpen and tune up bought from ebay. iron is perfect just needed a little regrind and polish. making lovely shavings. lovely ebay find - the real kind, where someone genuinely offloading loved stuff. Got a lovely backstory for it so I know the journey it's had. It'll be my son's one day.
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My wife asked if I fancied having a go at making her a small table from wood & resin.
I'd never worked with liquid resin before, so I said yes.
When it was done, we both thought It ended up a bit too small to be a table ( I already had the offcuts of Pippy Oak in my workshop) so we decided to hang it on the wall up on the landing instead.

Dimensions are 420mm high x 750mm wide by 22mm thick.
Finished with Rubio Monocoat "Pure".

I've now got to make a slightly larger one for the initial table she was after...!😁

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Looks great, I much prefer as a piece of art than a table.
 
Looks great, I much prefer as a piece of art than a table.
Thanks Fitzroy 👍.....As I said in my original post, it was supposed to be a small table, but now its hanging on the wall, I'm quite happy it ended up there.😁

The wife still wants a table but I'm going to use some Spalted Oak that I've had put away for some time and use some tinted black resin with it......Not completely black, coz I quite like the semi transparent look but hopefully, it will be okay with the black spalting.
 
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Thanks Fitzroy 👍.....As I said in my original post, it was supposed to be a small table, but now its hanging on the wall, I'm quite happy it ended up there.😁

The wife still wants a table but I'm going to use some Spalted Oak that I've had put away for some time and use some tinted black resin with it......Not completely black, coz I quite like the semi transparent look but hopefully, it will be okay with the black spalting.
Sounds amazing, looking forward to seeing it 😁
 
Thanks Fitzroy 👍.....As I said in my original post, it was supposed to be a small table, but now its hanging on the wall, I'm quite happy it ended up there.😁

The wife still wants a table but I'm going to use some Spalted Oak that I've had put away for some time and use some tinted black resin with it......Not completely black, coz I quite like the semi transparent look but hopefully, it will be okay with the black spalting.
Epoxy tint is on my mind at the moment. Currently filling splits and voids in oak for a desk I’m making. Getting the right depth of tint is tricky, the bottle is not helpful; tint-a few drops, solid colour 1g/100g.

I’m also using the the glass cast 50 and getting more contraction in the resin as it cures than I’d have liked. Having to go back and overfill later else the resin surface is considerably below the board surface.

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Ensuring you are working with the resin at the correct temperatures is important,....not just the resin itself but the temperature of the environment as well. If it's too warm, it's a problem,....if it's too cold, it's a problem!

At the risk of teaching my grandmother how to suck eggs,....If you feel you are getting too much shrinkage, try placing your resin container in a warm water bath prior to the pour.....This thins the consistency of the resin slightly and should allow better penetration.

To check the depth of colour of your tint, try using a small transparent glass container and once you think you're happy with the colour, dip it into your mixed resin and you should be able to see how transparent the resin is.
Trying to get an accurate idea of the finished colour whilst the resin is in a big container will be difficult, but if the resin is in the small container, you will be able to see through the glass to the other side...

What's the depth of pour you're doing in one pour...? Is it more than 25mm...?

Just in case you haven't seen this, it may be useful......

The GlassCast range of resins, in common with all epoxies, generate heat as part of the curing process. The amount of time the mixed resin can spend in the pot, as well as the maximum depth it can be poured at, will vary depending on the ambient temperature.

For best results, we recommend working in a consistent room temperature of 18-20°C. GlassCast can be used in temperatures from 15 to 25°C but higher temperatures will reduce the pot-life and the maximum pour-depth of the resin significantly, as shown in the table below.

Ambient Temperature15°C (minimum)20°C (recommended)25°C (maximum)
Maximum Time in Pot (Pot Life)80 mins60 mins40 mins
Maximum Pour Depth into a thin walled mould (silicone/plastic)50mm40mm30mm
Maximum Pour Depth into wood or an insulating mould25mm25mm18mm
Initial Cure96 hrs72 hrs48 hrs
 
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Epoxy is not able to shrink due to the polymer chain hardener reaction, it must be being absorbed into the wood or its been extended with a material that is able to shrink, polyester resins on the other hand do shrink due to the different reaction with the catalyst, the polymer chain is pulled together during the exothermic reaction.
 
I filled some of the voids in this Robinia burr in April last year but before I could get around to turning it in May I became ill. This week the temperature in the workshop has increased naturally and with the aid of my new diesel heater so I have been able to get a little turning done even though I still have to handle my gouges with gloves on for the moment (my last and 12th Chemo is Wednesday). Without gloves they feel like they've come straight out of the freezer. Sorry for the rushed photography but my heater refused to heat up the garden for me.

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I filled some of the voids in this Robinia burr in April last year but before I could get around to turning it in May I became ill. This week the temperature in the workshop has increased naturally and with the aid of my new diesel heater so I have been able to get a little turning done even though I still have to handle my gouges with gloves on for the moment (my last and 12th Chemo is Wednesday). Without gloves they feel like they've come straight out of the freezer. Sorry for the rushed photography but my heater refused to heat up the garden for me.

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Beautiful bowl definitely brought out the beauty of that piece of timber bet your pleased with that one
 
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