Hello David,Assuming you do the grind at 240 and 25 degrees, add a secondary bevel at 27 with the finest diamond hone - just a small one - skip the rest of the hones except for the finish hone - the others are a waste of your time.
Use a guide or something to get a feel for this, but add a tiny third bevel on the chinese stone you have there at around 32 degrees.
When you get your loupe, confirm that you see nothing but the finest scratches at the edge. Strop lightly on the strop and nothing more.
The chinese stones are notoriously slow, unless they're compressed agate, and then they can be coarser than 10k grit (I have one of each type - the natural ones are drastically different - but too slow for practical use to follow a 1200 grit diamond edge without steepening the angle a lot.)
You have only two things really to consider - is the geometry of the final bevel about right, and then, can you ensure visually that the fine scratches get all the way to the edge and is the edge damage free.
There is no mystery other than that - your loupe will help you.
Sellers pitches this method with a gaggle of plates and just honing right up the line, but few people get the fine scratches to the edge with no damage, and most steepen the edge in the process - bad practice. Your objective is to get the edge finished in as little work as possible and have it resistant to damage in use. Anything else is dumb. What paul teaches is a beginner's method, but you don't want to be a beginner for more than a very short period of time. The loop is your key in seeing what you're actually getting done (a small hand scope is also a decent idea - the ones that are about 15 pounds on ebay) and halving your sharpening time and getting a better result- both in sharpness and durability. You won't need the loupe for long - just until you get the feel of things.
You'll also probably quickly get to the point where you're grinding and finish honing at angles separated far enough that you don't need a guide for anything.
My old blades are slightly bent, they are not perfectly straight. That is why ruler trick helped me avoid a lot of flattening.dump the ruler trick, by the way. It's also a beginner's trap. when you work the back of a tool, put your fingers where you want the stone to work the metal but leave the tool flat on the stone. If you're coming up short when you can see the scratches on the back, you may want to first work the back on something faster, but even a 1200 grit diamond hone is coarse. A broken in fine india stone is nice for this as it requires little maintenance.
I think over time, the ruler trick will cost you time, and when I've tested plane irons, a 0.5mm ruler, or even a 1mm ruler cannot remove edge wear on a dull plane iron without being ground back far enough that it grows.My old blades are slightly bent, they are not perfectly straight. That is why ruler trick helped me avoid a lot of flattening.
Spot on. Too many stones and too many ideas just makes it more difficult.
I was going to ask if you were getting a burr on the diamond hones, which I see you have been.Maybe I misunderstood you, but I was thinking that you are talking about lowering the honing angle on the green stone, not having the stones of equal height. What benefit would give me having the stones of equal height with the green stone?
I base it on my experience with an ECE scrub which does the job really well. Small - about the size of a 3, single iron narrow blade 33mm, tight camber with radius 25mm.Indeed, but any old plane with a curved iron will do, or does one require a special n' dedicated scrub plane ?
Hmmmm, I wonder.....
I have a Pinie wooden scrub plane, similar to ECE, but less expensive. I have been using it on the oak to remove initial dirt and stones. But the problem is that once I get the board almost flat and I need to make minor adjustment, the blade just will not cut and just slides on the surface. If I increase the cut, it digs in. The surface is clear of dirt at this point. So the issue must be in the sharpness. Once I sharpen, I can make a few passes, but then it stops cutting again. I should be able to get a conitnuous shaving once the wood is flat, but I do not get any shaving, unless I use a freshly sharpened blade.Spot on. Too many stones and too many ideas just makes it more difficult.
But to get back to the problem - to plane rough oak which has been out in the garden for years you need a scrub plane, or even an adze, to get the surface cleaned up enough to plane.