Mobile base

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Doug B

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I recently bought a Hammer 4400 bandsaw of a fellow forumite it came with the factory fit mobile base but due to space restrictions moving it with the jockey wheel lever was a pain.
l’ve previously made with the help of a mate four mobile bases for my machines, all to the same design made from angle iron & with four locking casters, so this afternoon I popped over to his to make one for the Hammer & while there took a few photos.

First order of the day was to cut mitres on some recycled angle iron to form a frame.

A6B5971C-B8A9-4284-9C7E-D77F93A17502.jpeg


A V shape was ground on the mating surfaces that were to be welded then these were joined together.

23F63593-FD70-412E-93A0-66633C375FAB.jpeg


After cleaning up the welds the casters were masked up & these to were welded to the underside of the frame.


71FA64E1-4C3A-4F5D-BB5E-D3FE62AA4C2D.jpeg


A sanding of the frame & clean down with thinners was followed with a couple of coats of primer.

1B4D7F5B-96DB-4321-9D67-F0C73F53EB07.jpeg


when a coat of Satin black top coat was dry it was back to my workshop & just a case of popping the bandsaw into the base.

383B789C-4DCF-43FC-A28E-86201521E994.jpeg


The four locking casters prevent any movement when locked off but when unlocked I can move it in any direction, also what I really like with this design is there’s no parts sticking out to create a trip hazard.
 
Always hated the use of 2 swivel with 2 fixed casters as you end up doing that "trying to turn around with a wheel barrow in an alley" thing. Much better to have a set of swivelling wheels and then have another means of preventing them from unintentionally moving..my solution was full mobility and then just elevate off the wheels with jacking points at each corner. PT base 02.jpgPT base 01.jpg
doh...now I've posted one on its side...next time we'll get that right
 
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Not quite sure why my pictures wouldn't post direct in here so if you want to see what I did hit the following links...

The Apple HEIC format isn't supported by XenForo. If you want the images to display here, you will have to convert them to JPG or JPEG before uploading them.
 
You can move surprisingly big things with a sack trolley. I can just move my Startrite 352 with it resting on my shoulder.
Only if I need to - it's got 2 mini castors of it's own on the front edge, which look inadequate, but work fine on a smooth floor if you drag it from behind.
 
Always hated the use of 2 swivel with 2 fixed casters as you end up doing that "trying to turn around with a wheel barrow in an alley" thing. Much better to have a set of swivelling wheels and then have another means of preventing them from unintentionally moving..my solution was full mobility and then just elevate off the wheels with jacking points at each corner. View attachment 98614View attachment 98615
doh...now I've posted one on its side...next time we'll get that right
What do you use on the bottom of the jacks as feet?
 
What do you use on the bottom of the jacks as feet?
I welded metal discs onto the end of the threaded bar that I cut out of some 6mm thick 50mm wide flat bar using a hole saw. Made things a bit awkward at first as I had to insert them from below before welding on the longer nuts at the top so they're now captive. The extra nuts were just for locking stuff off if I ever get to the point where I find I don't want or need to move it for a while..
 
I welded metal discs onto the end of the threaded bar that I cut out of some 6mm thick 50mm wide flat bar using a hole saw. Made things a bit awkward at first as I had to insert them from below before welding on the longer nuts at the top so they're now captive. The extra nuts were just for locking stuff off if I ever get to the point where I find I don't want or need to move it for a while..
Thanks, I wondered if you had come up with a removal foot.
I’ve used coach bolts in the past but never really found a good solution for the top. I’ve tried locknuts but they always seem to come undone. I did file a 1/4 hex on the top so I could use a electric drill but it was a pain to file. Perhaps a welded nut is the simplest solution.
 
;)
.png can be 1-2mb for a photo where jpg compressed correctly might be 100k
never use .png for photos - it is designed for graphics with transparency, not photographic images
With today's high speed internet and modern PCs the file size is no where near the consideration it was even 5 years ago. The only time I switch away from .PNG is for 'printed matter' where it needs to be CMYK rather than RGB in which case I use .TIF. You will always have a degradation of the image - getting worse the more you do - with .JPG.

The transparency option with .PNG is very useful for 'drawings' and can be switched off for photo's.
 
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