Making a stand for a small bandsaw

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Wilson joinery

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Hi everyone

If you were making a small stand for a small bandsaw how would you go about making a frame for it? I was thinking mortise and tenon joints at the top of the legs (for worktop to bolt onto) and close to the bottom of the legs to prevent any racking and to allow a shelf to be fitted. Or could I use bridle joints? If so, how would I connect to the legs?

Does that sound ok? I’m quite new to this sort of thing as I generally work with sheet material.

Cheers
Pete
 
I make my machine stands as boxes using 18mm ply with simple butt joints reinforced with dominos. I have a small workshop so everything is on 50 mm castors. I feel that it is more than strong enough. Then I can put shelves, drawers, doors etc to maximise my storage options.
 
I'd make a simple table. 4 legs with aprons M&Td in, and a top bigger than the base of the saw so there'd be room to put bits n bobs. I generally prefer clear floor underneath rather than storage. You can always put a box of stuff there instead.
 
I'd go even simpler and use halving joints, much easier where you've got 2 rails coming onto the legs ay the same height. What size timber will you be using? This will have some influence on the design, eg. will bracing be needed.
Brian
 
Thanks all.

Timber will be a little under 2 3/4” x 1 3/4”. Brian would it be possible for you to send me a sketch? I can’t picture the method you describe.

Cheers
Pete
 
I'd go even simpler and use halving joints, much easier where you've got 2 rails coming onto the legs ay the same height. What size timber will you be using? This will have some influence on the design, eg. will bracing be needed.
Brian
I'll do something later today
 
Here's one I made earlier. Fairly heavy. Sheer mass is important for a machine base - cuts out vibrations and keeps everything steady whilst in use. This stand is bolted down to the table top.
Don't skimp on materials - the small saving may not be worth it.


IMG_5105.JPG
 
Last edited:
Thanks all.

Timber will be a little under 2 3/4” x 1 3/4”. Brian would it be possible for you to send me a sketch? I can’t picture the method you describe.

Cheers
Pete
Just rushed this out over a cup of coffee:-
Drawing1.JPG

Jacob's, with its deep aprons, is a better way to go for stiffness
Brian
 
Hi Jacob that looks ideal. Are the aprons mortise and tenoned into the legs?
Yes with tenons flush on the inside.
It's very solid and you really feel the difference when you use it. Had it free standing before on a low cabinet.
 
Unless your wanting to practice joints I'd just screw so 6" deep ply / MDF offcuts to your legs and a top to it!
If you do you might as well glue as well. Every little helps!
Another theme - but I believe in practicing if you get the chance. I'm naturally inclined to bodge things but there's a danger you'd never get away from it. It's a good learning process. Practice practice!
 
If you do you might as well glue as well. Every little helps!
Another theme - but I believe in practicing if you get the chance. I'm naturally inclined to bodge things but there's a danger you'd never get away from it. It's a good learning process. Practice practice!
FIFY!
 
A thing to think about is stability as bandsaws can get tipped over so have the 4 feet or wheels a bit larger than the saws footprint. Plenty good advice above and as you see there are a few ways to do it.
Regards
John
 
Thought I'd throw my idea into the mix. Copied my RP bandsaw stand and adjusted height to suit.
IMG_1790.jpg
 
What does FIFY stand for?
FIFY is "Fixed It For You". The alternate is FTFY (Fixed That For You). This is usually used when someone starts with a quote from another member and then modifies it to change the meaning.
 
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