Impact Wrench which one? Help

[Dibs-h]

The upper (or is it lower) slider pin has a rubber bush around it. Using copper slip (which is what most mechs were using) would swell it up and it'd seize. The cure was to only use red rubber grease around this slider pin (and as I now know, itsonly supposed to be a smear).

Certainly upper pins on many German cars.

I've always taken them out on each pad change, cleaned them and smeared them with Moly grease (3% I think) - simply because I had a pot from doing CV joints in the past and if it doesn't bother CV boots, it shouldn't (and doesn't) bother the slider pin boots either.

Don't do enough pads to justify another pot to misplace.

 

[deema]

Really good tips and advice on changing pads and discs. Thank you

 

[Dibs-h]

@deema - Do you think if you'd have been able to heat just the offending nuts\bolt heads (with no fear of damaging\heating anything else) - you'd have got them undone easier?

 

[deema]

@Dibs-h interesting question, the bolts were thread locked in, never been out since I bought it from new. So, no, heat probably wouldn’t have assisted.

 

[Dibs-h]

interesting question, the bolts were thread locked in,

You got me wondering too. LOL

A check on Google suggests that the medium strength (blue) is geared towards disassembly and shouldn't require a great deal of (more) force than it was tightened with initially.

Whereas the red stuff isn't really geared for coming apart. But heating it to somewhere between 250 & 450 C should cause it to stop being effective. I think those induction heater gadgets can get them cherry red, so would hope that's more than hot enough.

Not inclined to red thread lock a fat bolt and try it tho.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Thanks @Homeless Squirrel yes, I used heat, wd40, some shocks with the 200nm wrench (but doubt it did anything as it struggled even winding it back in before I'd taken it all off) and the long bar. It's a 70k example I managed to nab recently after my 3rd Subaru Legacy/Outback 3L gave up (don't believe em who tell ya they can reach 200k nicely). Hopefully this will hit 200 and even more.

Once removed I found the ends were corroded so I gave em all the good old wire brush treatment and then some copper ease before they went back in. One looked double threaded on the first few threads but that was probably in my head.

The car comes with a notice in the door that it's a 3.5 tonne kerb weight (or something along them lines - enough to make you worry when lifting it) and the bolts holding the calipers in were certainly upto the job. First time I've had to remove 19mm bolts for calipers.

Make sure use a good oil and changed reg with a decent filter.there pretty heavy on pistons

 

[redefined_cycles]

@Homeless Squirrel yes I'm on it. Already renewed the oil and filter when I bought it 6k ago (3 months) and will do it again very soon as the weather is anow a little better. I'm used to 6k oil and filter changes with the Subarus before this so no biggie - but point very well made. There's a Lexus MD is the US called Car Care Nut and he says similar on the Toyota engines and the reasons they end up leaking oil, due to poor maintenance.

Checked the gear oil too and still looked the same colour as it comes out the tub (red or green, I forget which) but another on my jobs list...

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

@Homeless Squirrel yes I'm on it. Already renewed the oil and filter when I bought it 6k ago (3 months) and will do it again very soon as the weather is anow a little better. I'm used to 6k oil and filter changes with the Subarus before this so no biggie - but point very well made. There's a Lexus MD is the US called Car Care Nut and he says similar on the Toyota engines and the reasons they end up leaking oil, due to poor maintenance.

Checked the gear oil too and still looked the same colour as it comes out the tub (red or green, I forget which) but another on my jobs list...

Boxes have a weakness esp on high bhp imprezzas on 3rd gear.
Amazing how much junk knowledge you can accumulate on your travels!.

 

[MikeJhn]

I think Porsche may argue with that premise.

 

[spanner48]

This may sound like a backwards step, but I use a hand impact driver; a heavy co-axial screw tool that uses rotational inertia to loosen - or tighten - bolts when hit with a hammer. My biggest is a 1/2" drive Snap-On, and I have two smaller ones - 3/8" and 1/4" - for smaller, fiddlier jobs.

Very compact, if heavy; never failed yet. Will sheer 1/2" bolts, where necessary. The only drawback is accessibility, where there isn't room to swing the hammer.