Impact Wrench which one? Help

[bansobaby]

I have one of the Dewalt ones mentioned by someone further up.
It was purchased for doing up M20 Stover nuts on hot elevator chains
It has sheared wheel studs……

 

[clogs]

I bought the 3/8 drive impact first so pleased with it I then bought the strongest 1/2 drive.....
I bought the bare machine and used the extra batt from the first kit.....
Pls look at eBay Germany, mine was 1/2 the price of a UK supplied machine.....
PS
as all my Hitachi battery equip dies it will be replaced by Millwaukee......

 

[Jameshow]

That's what you get for buying 2.2 engined one!

This is why my Renault master needs a gearbox rebuild every 5 minutes, its the same one they put in all the tiny cars.
Next time I am getting a Mk 8 Transit or an Iveco.

Ollie

Yeap 2.2 is a weak engine enliven gives trouble in cars!

Transit or iveco better.

Beware the MK8 transit dpf causes issues if driven majority locally. Also the 2.0 model were trouble too. 2.2 best tbh.

3.0 iveco would be the best!!

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Yeap 2.2 is a weak engine enliven gives trouble in cars!

Transit or iveco better.

Beware the MK8 transit dpf causes issues if driven majority locally. Also the 2.0 model were trouble too. 2.2 best tbh.

3.0 iveco would be the best!!

Iveco all day and every day even if it did have a tie up with fords!
Transits don't last very well mates ones have a pile in yard needing new engines @30 odd thou. Also often go open and run till destroy themselves Think the ole bean counter issues as they run cheap injection system Dephi Jag and LD fooked them off

 

[Limburger]

I work as tractor mechanic and use a Milwaukee impact almost every day from 1/4'' to 3/4'' on battery, for 1'' we go air. I have chosen Makita for my private work at home, cause I find that the way battery's are mounted on the Milwaukee is a bit dung in my opinion (years ago when I made the choice to go Makita). I also need to say that I cant compare my private tool usage to my everyday heavy work usage. But in the early Milwaukee days those battery's rattled so much the simply didnt last long enough in my opinion. I guess now a days they are improved on mounting etc. So that will be fine by now.

A big contribution to a nicely working impact driver is good impact sockets. We all rape our chromies now and then on stuff thats not that tight but if you want to hammer down on a tight stubby pipper you NEED impact sockets extensions etc.
When I bought my first impact wich was the heaviest 1/2'' drive makita made back then, thought it was the DTW1000. Good for 1000NM, the thing is propper heavy and with a good socket it will loosen most things. Recently I bought the DTW300 wich has 330NM and I see my self grabing this one ALL the time. Enough grunt for my private work most of the times (cars, some machines)

 

[Jameshow]

Iveco all day and every day even if it did have a tie up with fords!
Transits don't last very well mates ones have a pile in yard needing new engines @30 odd thou. Also often go open and run till destroy themselves Think the ole bean counter issues as they run cheap injection system Dephi Jag and LD fooked them off

Which ones are they 2.2 or 2.0?
2.0 are weaker apparently.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Which ones are they 2.2 or 2.0?
2.0 are weaker apparently.

Don't know off hand as never got that far we was talking about race engines and two strokes and we got talking about vans as he has one for moving his and others race bikes and i was saying about Friend just had a new transit run away on motorway hard shoulder so engine was toast, and he said about pile they had needing engines and dealing with fords over it was fraught!

 

[stevep]

As someone who works on cars for a living I use Milwaukee gear, if you only want to buy one tool to cover it all then go big, this gun is the highest torque they do currently, and honestly I can't remember a time it didn't undo something. It's also on offer this weekend so grab it while it's discounted.

Matt

I’ll second this. I have one also, and it’s a beast !

 

[hunter27]

Wouldn't bother with the Makita DTW285. I bought this as I use 18v the Makita platform but have been very disappointed with this tool, we torqued up the wheel nuts on my sons car to 120Nm and the following weekend this impact gun couldn't undo some of wheel nuts even with a newly charged 5AH battery. It's is supposed to go up to 280Nm.
I only bought this as I have just had my second shoulder replacement and thought this would help.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You know you want to ...

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/milwaukee-m18onefhiwf1d-121c-fuel-one-key-d-handle-impact-wrench-kit

 

[bourbon]

Get yourself down to your local Machine Mart. Milwaukee, Dewalt, Clarke are all on display for you to have a good look at, and also sell a good range of impact rated sockets and extension bars

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Wouldn't bother with the Makita DTW285. I bought this as I use 18v the Makita platform but have been very disappointed with this tool, we torqued up the wheel nuts on my sons car to 120Nm and the following weekend this impact gun couldn't undo some of wheel nuts even with a newly charged 5AH battery. It's is supposed to go up to 280Nm.
I only bought this as I have just had my second shoulder replacement and thought this would help.

Agree returned it once they found a load of faults in it as think had a duff pile but still not convinced it's any good!

 

[redefined_cycles]

Not sure if this has been said before, but for brute force on a cars nuts (sorry) that's exactly what you want. Brute force and not impact IMHO. Recently I opened up bolts on the Lexus LS430 which is 22 years old and probably not had the calipers off in a long while.

So I got out there with the 450mm 1/2 socket headed bar. It was a right brute to get off and only the bottom nuts. These brakes are 4 pot pistons and the bottom nut seems seized in both - maybe cos the water trickles down - but the top nuts came off fine.

Once I had the nuts winding out I did get my impact wrench (200nm Bosch Impact wrench/driver combined) on it but it wouldn't shift anything. How'd I get it off...

Well, using my (best there was available) one trigger torch with the best fuel. Obviously I needed to be careful I didn't melt the pipes or start a fire. So my advice over getting an Impact wrench (Milwaukee do one thats about 450nm I think, called The Nut Buster) which my mechanic mate also advised is more likely to just shear the bolt - would be to get a good/long breaker bar and a good torch.

Also don't forget to get something that will stop you burning everything. Screwfix or whereever sell the fire proof mats/protecrors which you put between the flame and whatever doesn't wantt heating/burning...

Sorry if it's all been said already!

 

[redefined_cycles]

I work on our cars - in all fairness, even though I have a cordless Bosch 18v impact driver that "says" 200Nm of torque, I've never used it on a car. I've found for 99% of what I need to remove,

- a 3/8" ratchet is ok,
- If it looks like it won't, then the 3 foot 1/2" breaker bar works (and I have a 3 foot length of steel pipe to slide over it if it's a hub bolt or something),
- maybe twice I've got the 240v impact driver out (450Nm), but that's more likely to snap the bolt if it's that stuck.

What's actually on my list of things to buy for the annoying rusted on bolts\nuts is one of those induction heater gadgets that will get the nut\bolt head glowing cherry red in a few mins and then some wax or Plusgas should help it come out without any further issues.

Have you a link to cheap version of those induction heater gadgets. Maybe I can stop using the torch afterall... Or is a combination of heater then torch! Sorry for my ingnorance in this dept as I always thought them heaters cost mega-money!?

Thanks ks

 

[deema]

Long bar and heat I have. Still mulling over what to get. Appreciate all the responses.

 

[Dibs-h]

Have you a link to cheap version of those induction heater gadgets. Maybe I can stop using the torch afterall... Or is a combination of heater then torch! Sorry for my ingnorance in this dept as I always thought them heaters cost mega-money!?

Thanks ks

I hope it's OK to post the link.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313970764707
It's one of these things - they're on Amazon and eBay. I haven't bought one yet but will at some point soon.

I've seen them for 3 times that price - just with a different label and then there's the "original" make\brand: Mini Ductor or something.

HIH

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Not sure if this has been said before, but for brute force on a cars nuts (sorry) that's exactly what you want. Brute force and not impact IMHO. Recently I opened up bolts on the Lexus LS430 which is 22 years old and probably not had the calipers off in a long while.

So I got out there with the 450mm 1/2 socket headed bar. It was a right brute to get off and only the bottom nuts. These brakes are 4 pot pistons and the bottom nut seems seized in both - maybe cos the water trickles down - but the top nuts came off fine.

Once I had the nuts winding out I did get my impact wrench (200nm Bosch Impact wrench/driver combined) on it but it wouldn't shift anything. How'd I get it off...

Well, using my (best there was available) one trigger torch with the best fuel. Obviously I needed to be careful I didn't melt the pipes or start a fire. So my advice over getting an Impact wrench (Milwaukee do one thats about 450nm I think, called The Nut Buster) which my mechanic mate also advised is more likely to just shear the bolt - would be to get a good/long breaker bar and a good torch.

Also don't forget to get something that will stop you burning everything. Screwfix or whereever sell the fire proof mats/protecrors which you put between the flame and whatever doesn't wantt heating/burning...

Sorry if it's all been said already!

Brake calipers and plates that are made of Alloy should be removed and cleaned inc threads and bolts after so many years as mixed metals ie alloy and steel add salty road spray =Electrolyses as they eat into each other and parts swell can end with parts sheering off.
Had it on Citroens that had handbrake on front wheels rear calipers are made from cast alloy and two big bolts going through into steel arms and would find discs/pads wearing at odd angle where it was all warping so once got off if could? after cleaning up area or replacing calipers plus bolts it was new discs and pads and on some C5's had bolts shear off.
As what you most likely found was it wasnt just the bolt going into threads you found hard but caliper and bolt was binding together why so hard to remove.
Long bar and shock it works.

Neighbours tiny pug think 107? same thing as aygo/citro C1 3 pot food mixer.For MOT needed to check pads as had an issue! Couldn't get studs out so asked me tried impact wrench! Naff all came back with breaker bar and tube and gave it a sharp 'I lifted car up' 'Tug' crack sorted. Issue was the studs was so long and not been removed for so long as he don't do many miles they hung out back of hub by quite a bit so got all rusty add tyre monkeys windy gunning them up =lucky didn't cost him more.

 

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks @Homeless Squirrel yes, I used heat, wd40, some shocks with the 200nm wrench (but doubt it did anything as it struggled even winding it back in before I'd taken it all off) and the long bar. It's a 70k example I managed to nab recently after my 3rd Subaru Legacy/Outback 3L gave up (don't believe em who tell ya they can reach 200k nicely). Hopefully this will hit 200 and even more.

Once removed I found the ends were corroded so I gave em all the good old wire brush treatment and then some copper ease before they went back in. One looked double threaded on the first few threads but that was probably in my head.

The car comes with a notice in the door that it's a 3.5 tonne kerb weight (or something along them lines - enough to make you worry when lifting it) and the bolts holding the calipers in were certainly upto the job. First time I've had to remove 19mm bolts for calipers.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

One day I watched a workmate who was a very good apprentice trained mechanic as he meticulously wire brushed all the bolts and studs, then coppaslipped them as he worked on my car. I commented and he said he had been taught the old fashioned way - the day he qualified his boss retired. He said he was taught that every nut and bolt he touched should have either coppaslip or loctite put on it depending upon the purpose, otherwise the job might come back to bite him a few years down the line.

I had an old Austin Gypsy back in the '70s. The wheel nuts had seized and couldn't be removed with huge commercial spider. I put a ten foot scaffold tube on it and still they wouldn't budge ................. until I drove the thing onto it. I think the crack when they gave could have been heard a mile away.

 

[redefined_cycles]

Funny old world Phil... For a fair while on the Subaru I was having issues of brake-shake. Initially when it happened I went to the indy Subaru specialist who told me it was the brakes/disc. So I got him some decent ones from GSF and he had his lads put em on.

After a while (about 1000 miles) it came back and I didn't really bother going back. Had a look myself and it turned out they'd not really freed up the calipers/pistons when putting the new pads in. So I did that and cleaned/greased everything.

To cut a long story short, I became a bit of a dab-hand at fully servicing/new seals the calipers on these cars. It was after at least 2 more sets of discs and lots of rubbish-talking (and taking my money) from the mechanics, that I learnt what the problem was/is.

The upper (or is it lower) slider pin has a rubber bush around it. Using copper slip (which is what most mechs were using) would swell it up and it'd seize. The cure was to only use red rubber grease around this slider pin (and as I now know, itsonly supposed to be a smear).

Even on the forum theres so much talk about this brake shake and the cure being how you bed them in and all sorts of stupid theories,/fixes of going at x speed then doing y etc etc etc (not that I thrash my brakes as soon as I put new pads/discs on).

Most of my brake work I now do myself... as well as much other stuff! BTW my mate Stu who is a truck mechanic had a similar exp/telling off from his boss as an apprentice. Never ever forgot to use copper slip ever again (as the ungreased part was sent back to him on the next visit/service,,).