How would you wall mount this?

[Baball]

Hi all,

I've made two of these trinket boxes for the kids, but I'm not sure how best to wall mount them.

It was my first go at dadoes and the slotted inner sections and some of the joints aren't the tightest fit, so the glue joints may not be as strong as they could have been. I'm reluctant to carry the weight on the top horizontal section and think something using the two vertical inner pieces would be better. Saying that, I'm not expecting much load on it.

I didn't want to put backs on them (plus didn't have enough oak to do that), and the backs are flush.

It's 9mm oak, overall measures 340 x 340 x 78mm.



Thanks!
Matt

 

[ChaiLatte]

Google 'keyhole hangers' for an idea. The difficulty might be sourcing something that is narrow enough.

Self adhesive velcro on the entire back perimeter.

 

[Etaf]

use french cleets - make yourslef
so you just slot the unit over the cleets
maybe screwed onto the inner uprights
or some of the kitchen wall unit fixings
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hardware...et-brackets-with-mounting-plate-10-pack/91611

 

[Baball]

use french cleets - make yourslef
so you just slot the unit over the cleets
maybe screwed onto the inner uprights
or some of the kitchen wall unit fixings
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hardware...et-brackets-with-mounting-plate-10-pack/91611

Thanks Etaf. I haven't tried french cleats before but have been wanting to for a while, this could be a good opportunity. I wondered if a cleat in the top left and right sections, glued on three sides to the top and vertical pieces would be strong enough?

 

[Baball]

Google 'keyhole hangers' for an idea. The difficulty might be sourcing something that is narrow enough.

Self adhesive velcro on the entire back perimeter.

Thanks ChaiLatte. Keyhole hangers would be elegant, but so far I can only find them about 16mm wide.

Velcro is also a great idea, would be simple and quite possibly strong enough.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Thanks ChaiLatte. Keyhole hangers would be elegant, but so far I can only find them about 16mm wide.

Velcro is also a great idea, would be simple and quite possibly strong enough.

How about a couple of peanut connectors.

 

[ChaiLatte]

The velcro suggestion was not entirely serious. You will make a big mess of the wall if you ever try to remove the shelf.

Maybe....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112441518284 (number 12)

Similar to these, but brass:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/corner-plates-zinc-plated-83mm-x-0-9mm-x-83mm-10-pack/13954
You could recess the back, like sinking in a hinge for a nice flush fit. They would also tie the corners together. You could use with the hypoteneuse horizontal at the mid joints as well.

Buy a square of 1.5mm brass sheet off eBay and cut it on the diagonal.

or these:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-corner-gussets-zinc-plated-65mm-x-65mm-x-19mm-10-pack/9861p

 

[Graham Brazier]

Mirror plate on its side screwed into ends

 

[Ollie78]

Cut keyhole slots in the back using a router rather than the metal ones.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Cut keyhole slots in the back using a router

Do you have a link to a keyhole router bit that is less than 9mm on the large diameter?

 

[scholar]

I think what I would suggest in this case is a simple oak batten under the bottom of the unit, screwed into the wall - this will basically support the weight of the whole unit - and then some mirror plates as has been suggested already - one fixes either side near the top will hold the unit to the wall.

I did something similar with this (now quite laden) drawer unit that sits underneath my Woodrat. The “mirror plates” I possibly made myself and they are slotted which I did to facilitate easy removal if necessary.

Cheers

 

[Orraloon]

Much as I like french cleats they are not the best for this job as the unit will sit out from the wall. Being backless stuff will be able to fall down the back. A batten and mirror plates as scholar has shown above would be my pick.
Brass plates will show off the oak nicely.
Regards
John

 

[Bristol_Rob]

Picture frame brackets might work for you.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/plain-mi...mm-x-38mm-x-38mm-10-pack/13114?ref=SFAppShare

 

[TomGW]

Bearing in mind that the overall size is just 340mm sq I would wanting a totally invisible means of support. My thought would be to simply drill the wall, plug and screw at the mid point (top) of the two inner uprights (roughly 110 ctrs). Then, with the screws in the wall file the sides and bottom off to create a sharp spike on the top from the countersink head. Alternatively modify the screws first and screw them in using pliers. Next drill the uprights to sit over the screws. The sharp profile of the screw head should be sufficient to grip the oak and keep it snug to the wall.

 

[Scruples]

Hi all,

I've made two of these trinket boxes for the kids, but I'm not sure how best to wall mount them.

It was my first go at dadoes and the slotted inner sections and some of the joints aren't the tightest fit, so the glue joints may not be as strong as they could have been. I'm reluctant to carry the weight on the top horizontal section and think something using the two vertical inner pieces would be better. Saying that, I'm not expecting much load on it.

I didn't want to put backs on them (plus didn't have enough oak to do that), and the backs are flush.

It's 9mm oak, overall measures 340 x 340 x 78mm.

View attachment 166385

Thanks!
Matt

Get some very small brass, square-ended threaded wall hooks and drill small holes in the underside of the top shelf each side. Screw in the hooks and locate them into the drilled holes. The shelf will be strong and the fixings virtually invisible.

 

[ColinDeVelen]

A long time ago I 'temporarily' mounted a cd shelf to the wall using these brackets (7 years and 300 cd's and it's still going strong). Granted, the CD's hid the brackets when the shelves were full, but it may be an option if you can find some smaller brass versions (Robert Dyas for example, and they may also have the mirror plates too).

 

[Baball]

The velcro suggestion was not entirely serious. You will make a big mess of the wall if you ever try to remove the shelf.

Ha! OK, I actually thought it was a good idea; I've used the command strips before and they were pretty good.

Maybe....

25/100pcs Saw Tooth Picture Photo Oil Painting Frame Wall Hook Hanger with Screw | eBay (number 12)

Similar to these, but brass:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/corner-plates-zinc-plated-83mm-x-0-9mm-x-83mm-10-pack/13954
You could recess the back, like sinking in a hinge for a nice flush fit. They would also tie the corners together. You could use with the hypoteneuse horizontal at the mid joints as well.

Buy a square of 1.5mm brass sheet off eBay and cut it on the diagonal.

or these:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-corner-gussets-zinc-plated-65mm-x-65mm-x-19mm-10-pack/9861p

Yeah brackets like that could work well, I'll see what I can find in brass.

 

[Baball]

Do you have a link to a keyhole router bit that is less than 9mm on the large diameter?

Yeah I would be nervous trying to route out the 9mm thickness.

 

[Baball]

How about a couple of peanut connectors.

Thanks paulrbarnard. How would that work? Peanuts on the wall, and corresponding holes on the box?

 

[Baball]

I think what I would suggest in this case is a simple oak batten under the bottom of the unit, screwed into the wall - this will basically support the weight of the whole unit - and then some mirror plates as has been suggested already - one fixes either side near the top will hold the unit to the wall.

I did something similar with this (now quite laden) drawer unit that sits underneath my Woodrat. The “mirror plates” I possibly made myself and they are slotted which I did to facilitate easy removal if necessary.



Cheers

Thanks scholar, I like this idea a lot. I'm now wondering if I could make something useful of the baton underneath, perhaps turn it into somewhere to hang some items from.