I'm thinking of using French cleats as part of my storage system in a new workshop. I don't have a table saw which is the usual way of cutting the angle so I'm thinking of using a circular saw or maybe a router with a 45° cutter. Thinking of using 12mm WBP ply as stock. Any advice tip or tricks from anyone that has made them? Pictures would be good if you have any.
French Cleats
- Thread starter woodpig
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jdeacon
Established Member
I used them as I'm often bringing tools I thought would be rarely used from their place on the cellar wall cleats up to the workshop wall cleats. Of course, I ought to take some of the tools I wrongly thought would be often used back downstairs, but ...
My experience was that you don't have to get the angle exactly 45° but you do have to use the two pieces (44° and 46° for example) as pairs. Which went wrong for me with my using two sets of cleats, when the angle changed in between uses of the saw; so exactly 45° turned out to be best for my purposes. If I was using a circular saw rather than the table saw, I'd go for measuring the angle of a test cut.
I used fairly crappy 19mm plywood; which didn't work too well. The problem is that the cleats come to a point; and if there happens to be a void or a flaky veneer at the point it's not so effective. So for the next round of cleats I'll use the better stuff, but probably not the best.
And it's not totally magical, they do rely - for the heavier and the cantilevered items at least - on the wood piece that's attached to the free cleat* hanging over the flat of the fixed cleat by a fair amount - say 15 to 20mm.
On the whole I'm very pleased with them; very glad not to be using pegboard any more.
* The piece that actually carries the hooks, the dowels, the holes, whatever.
My experience was that you don't have to get the angle exactly 45° but you do have to use the two pieces (44° and 46° for example) as pairs. Which went wrong for me with my using two sets of cleats, when the angle changed in between uses of the saw; so exactly 45° turned out to be best for my purposes. If I was using a circular saw rather than the table saw, I'd go for measuring the angle of a test cut.
I used fairly crappy 19mm plywood; which didn't work too well. The problem is that the cleats come to a point; and if there happens to be a void or a flaky veneer at the point it's not so effective. So for the next round of cleats I'll use the better stuff, but probably not the best.
And it's not totally magical, they do rely - for the heavier and the cantilevered items at least - on the wood piece that's attached to the free cleat* hanging over the flat of the fixed cleat by a fair amount - say 15 to 20mm.
On the whole I'm very pleased with them; very glad not to be using pegboard any more.
* The piece that actually carries the hooks, the dowels, the holes, whatever.
Benchwayze
Established Member
I started to use French Cleats, but I really don't have long runs of wall space. I found that making them for short runs of shelving was more trouble than the worth, so went back to Spur Shelving which is adjustable for height. I use the cleats for hanging wall-cupboards that have to hold heavy stuff, (like my routers) and for this they work well. I cut the 45 degree angle on the bandsaw, as mine has a sloping table. Presumably so do most other sensible bandsaws.
HTH
John
HTH
John
If I may ask a related question, don't feel it's worth making a whole new thread for it. I am planning to put french cleats in my shop and I am wondering if there's a particular spacing you'd recommend ? I have two long walls (9 meters) and I plan to make cleats run along the whole length of both sides.
I was thinking of starting from a height somewhat above workbench level and then up to the ceiling, or as high as I can go, some places already have shelves high up for lumber storage.
I was thinking of starting from a height somewhat above workbench level and then up to the ceiling, or as high as I can go, some places already have shelves high up for lumber storage.
Benchwayze
Established Member
Hi Dennis.
I think the spacing depends on what tools you are going to hang, and whether or not the tools are long; such as screwdrivers, and chisels. Some tools you can store on a shelf, and shelf spacing again depends on the tallest items you have to shelve. With chisels I would put them at the bottom in safe and easy reach, which also means allowing clearance above them for lifting out.
HTH
John
I think the spacing depends on what tools you are going to hang, and whether or not the tools are long; such as screwdrivers, and chisels. Some tools you can store on a shelf, and shelf spacing again depends on the tallest items you have to shelve. With chisels I would put them at the bottom in safe and easy reach, which also means allowing clearance above them for lifting out.
HTH
John
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Don't forget that if you hang a board on it, a block at the bottom, the same thickness as the cleats themselves, will add a lot of stability and stop it from swinging about.
S
S
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
Maybe I'm missing something here, but surely if you cut both the fixed and the moveable part with the saw set to the same angle then they will work.
I would have thought that the least wasteful method would be to cut a long length of timber into two complementary pieces, but if you have some narrower strips you wanted to use up, then just leave the saw at the same angle.
But as I say, maybe I'm missing something.
I would have thought that the least wasteful method would be to cut a long length of timber into two complementary pieces, but if you have some narrower strips you wanted to use up, then just leave the saw at the same angle.
But as I say, maybe I'm missing something.
woodpig":3lgup22c said:
That guy made a lot of them very close, not quite what I was imagening. I was thinking more space between the cleats to save lumber. I've looked further on the net and I think 20cm (8") or so spacing might be suitable. I will likely just rip planks to size and screw them directly to the wall studs. A recent-ish photo of my garage/workshop:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3947/151 ... f6b6_c.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/151 ... 0914_c.jpg
I might also apply poly finish on the cleats to make it look a bit nicer.
There's an interior wall still missing on one side, but after that I'll have two long walls to fill with cleats, might also put them on the short wall. So I'll have lots of space to hang tools and shelves and cabinets anywhere I want them. Over the windows I have already put cantilever shelves (woodgears.ca design) for lumber storage.
Benchwayze
Established Member
Someone on the Forum made a 'tool-wall' out of plain 2 x 1 strips, fixed across battens. Apparently shelves will stay put, fixed between two strips, providing the gap between the strips is a snug fit, and the 2 x 1 at the top is further back, in relation to the strip beneath. (Hope you can visualise that.) If I went this route, I'd be tempted to grip a shelf between 2 x 2 underneath and 2 x 1 above.
Maybe the member will recall his thread. I can't! :mrgreen:
John
Maybe the member will recall his thread. I can't! :mrgreen:
John
lincs1963
Established Member
Lifes too short, just buy commercial slatwalling. You can get hooks, brackets and all manner if attachments for it.
Just my thought on the matter.
Just my thought on the matter.
Just watched this yesterday - Steve Ramsay's take on french cleat storage in the workshop.
Woodpig - notice you're in Surrey, if it might be of interest I have 40 odd 18mm birch ply strips (500mm by 75mm) plus odd cuts which you could have free of charge (just need collecting from KT4). These were home made clamps from an old project and were to be used as french cleats by me but house move renders that plan obsolete! PM if interested.
Woodpig - notice you're in Surrey, if it might be of interest I have 40 odd 18mm birch ply strips (500mm by 75mm) plus odd cuts which you could have free of charge (just need collecting from KT4). These were home made clamps from an old project and were to be used as french cleats by me but house move renders that plan obsolete! PM if interested.
