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Midlife
Established Member
Signed on the dotted line yesterday for my first ever bandsaw a Felder FB600 so i will let you know in 6weeks , at 71.028Kc inc 20 percent dph(vat) it better be good,
Tony
Tony
Shane
Established Member
Axminster AWHBS350N, vercheap customer return from ebay 8)
Not had chance to set it up yet
Not had chance to set it up yet
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Chrikey! At £71K Tony I would expect it to grow, season and cut its own wood too!
Midlife
Established Member
Jonzjob":1gpqnq1r said:
that was 71 czech KC not uk pounds ,if i had 71,000pounds i would be sitting on a beach somewhere warm in winter instead of freezing my but of at -20 in czech
Tony (snowboarding tomorrow
)Midlife
Established Member
with the FB600 but not happy with felder for only delivering it last friday and then the next day another FB600 arrived on sat morning :roll: but that is normal for CZ,I will put a review on here after a few more weeks after i have used it a bit more and the hAMMER A331 P/T.
Tony
theblindwoodturner
Established Member
My current bandsaw, a sheppach basato 4 which I've tuned up. I agree on chucking the original blades away. Here are a few companies to consider for bandsaw blades. KR saws. they specialise in making blades for resawing as well as the wood and metal trades.a great company and I sing their praises. There's also the company who make the ripper 37 blades for resawing. they are absolutely amazing blades which can produce fast cuts in lumber ready for planking and much more. I've used the ripper 37 for a while for milling hard and soft woods and it gives me an amazing work load. The blade I'm using now. well I say using now. I've installed it new and haven't used it much is a masters blade from KR SAWS. I love it to bits. it produces a fine cut even though it's a resaw blade 32mm wide with a very powerful hook type tooth setup. unlike most blades where the blades create a clearance above the thickness of the band, this blade leaves minimal deflection as the hook design is flat with the grinds produced as set angles.
Anyway the bandsaw is well built for the price range and offers plenty of power even when resawing. a decent cast iron table gives a smooth feed. 2 speed drive which can make resawing work a breeze with supertooth blades, etc. Besides this, it's quite easy to set up and run. I like it a lot.
This machine's for sale.
considering a larger machine for heavy resaw work and joint cutting. so looking at a basato 5-2
lew
Anyway the bandsaw is well built for the price range and offers plenty of power even when resawing. a decent cast iron table gives a smooth feed. 2 speed drive which can make resawing work a breeze with supertooth blades, etc. Besides this, it's quite easy to set up and run. I like it a lot.
This machine's for sale.
considering a larger machine for heavy resaw work and joint cutting. so looking at a basato 5-2
lew
Mike.C
Established Member
theblindwoodturner":4unfjzjt said:
Hi Lewis welcome to the forum.
IMHO and many, many other members will agree that Tuffsaws are far superior in both quality and customer service then 99% of other companies. What Ian does not know about blades is simply not worth knowing.
Cheers
Mike
tisdai
Established Member
Have to 2nd that about Tuffsaws and Ian, a top bloke.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
theblindwoodturner
Established Member
I like the sound of that.
To be honest the scheppach was my first medium heavy bandsaw. before that an old startrite in need of a lot of love and attention. so I'd like to find a much better machine for processing, etc.
lew
To be honest the scheppach was my first medium heavy bandsaw. before that an old startrite in need of a lot of love and attention. so I'd like to find a much better machine for processing, etc.
lew
gregmcateer
Established Member
Midlife":b1abqlji said:
Hi Tony,
How have you found the Felder bandsaw?
Thanks
Greg
Allylearm
Established Member
I do not see any trade saws entered so here is my tuppence worth. I have used others but in use these were the better ones I have worked on both as purchase and reliability. Do not get me started on Italian Resaws.
Wadkin C500
A thorough work horse had a varied types from shop to shop I have worked. I can only ever remember having to fix a lower guide wheel in 27 years of working this machine or varient. At present it is set up for cutting Picnic Table tops circuler in a pilot bearing set up on a purpose built extension table. I used to make woven fence panels and used the same jig to cut arch pieces from 18mm Ex Ply. Cuts true only minus point is foot print in the shop if your tight for space.
Wadkin PBR
A good resaw for smaller manufacturer, no pit required, very quiet due to the rubber wheels. Can angle cut as fence is adjustable used this a lot on shiplap splitting after moulding. Minus points the rubber wheels, I went through a pair every two years. To fix traded in my old wheels for refurbished plus cash from Wadkin, who had set up this so I take it was a common issue. It aint as fast as the Stenner Eagle I had both in workshop side by side, the Eagle won every time. It can also do with a table at rear as standard or you need to make or purchase roller supports.
Stenner Eagle
Like the Wadkin above does not need a pit and is quick. Does not tilt the fence like Wadkin and has solid wheels, the machine is noisier in operation than the PBR. Faults the design of the motor inside the cast body, the feed motor travels in a arc to reach its set and the table is slotted to accomadate this movement. The saw spit goes down this arced hole in table bed and builds up. The manafucturer in his wisdom does not make the entry to the motor easy so you must clean out regular or you may get a fire. The blade coolant system can be tempremental due to air locks. It can also do with a table at rear as standard or you need to make or purchase roller supports.
Weinig BKS
Its the daddy 40m a minute unless you go for its bigger brothers which are serious saws, versatile with the options and can cut at a angle, the tilt fillet option is really good for example. I just love the foot switch which allows the same batten to go through until split due to the feed motor coming in to new size. No faults yet but serious foot space and cost.
As for blades, the bandsaws I stick to bi-metal I can get the cheapest from my local suppliers. Resaw I use both Stellite tipped and HSS dependant on what is being cut and economy of saw kerf. I do not operate the blades for longer than 8 hours to maintain wear and tear. The best advice I can give in Resaw blade ownership is getting a trustworthy Saw Doctor. It aint no good looking after you blades only to send them off and week later somebody elses blades get returned to you. Went through lots of Doctors due to this.
Ally
Wadkin C500
A thorough work horse had a varied types from shop to shop I have worked. I can only ever remember having to fix a lower guide wheel in 27 years of working this machine or varient. At present it is set up for cutting Picnic Table tops circuler in a pilot bearing set up on a purpose built extension table. I used to make woven fence panels and used the same jig to cut arch pieces from 18mm Ex Ply. Cuts true only minus point is foot print in the shop if your tight for space.
Wadkin PBR
A good resaw for smaller manufacturer, no pit required, very quiet due to the rubber wheels. Can angle cut as fence is adjustable used this a lot on shiplap splitting after moulding. Minus points the rubber wheels, I went through a pair every two years. To fix traded in my old wheels for refurbished plus cash from Wadkin, who had set up this so I take it was a common issue. It aint as fast as the Stenner Eagle I had both in workshop side by side, the Eagle won every time. It can also do with a table at rear as standard or you need to make or purchase roller supports.
Stenner Eagle
Like the Wadkin above does not need a pit and is quick. Does not tilt the fence like Wadkin and has solid wheels, the machine is noisier in operation than the PBR. Faults the design of the motor inside the cast body, the feed motor travels in a arc to reach its set and the table is slotted to accomadate this movement. The saw spit goes down this arced hole in table bed and builds up. The manafucturer in his wisdom does not make the entry to the motor easy so you must clean out regular or you may get a fire. The blade coolant system can be tempremental due to air locks. It can also do with a table at rear as standard or you need to make or purchase roller supports.
Weinig BKS
Its the daddy 40m a minute unless you go for its bigger brothers which are serious saws, versatile with the options and can cut at a angle, the tilt fillet option is really good for example. I just love the foot switch which allows the same batten to go through until split due to the feed motor coming in to new size. No faults yet but serious foot space and cost.
As for blades, the bandsaws I stick to bi-metal I can get the cheapest from my local suppliers. Resaw I use both Stellite tipped and HSS dependant on what is being cut and economy of saw kerf. I do not operate the blades for longer than 8 hours to maintain wear and tear. The best advice I can give in Resaw blade ownership is getting a trustworthy Saw Doctor. It aint no good looking after you blades only to send them off and week later somebody elses blades get returned to you. Went through lots of Doctors due to this.
Ally
chipmunk
Established Member
I'm new to the site but have an Elektra Beckum BAS450.
I bought it second hand and it's great, apart from a couple of gripes - No rip fence and the dust extraction porting is rubbish.
I'm a woodturner so the fence isn't a big issue - particularly since it's got a Aluminium extruded bed with lengthways grooves (easy alignment of a timber batten fence).
I'm looking to fettle a new dust extraction port under the table pretty soon.
Jon
I bought it second hand and it's great, apart from a couple of gripes - No rip fence and the dust extraction porting is rubbish.
I'm a woodturner so the fence isn't a big issue - particularly since it's got a Aluminium extruded bed with lengthways grooves (easy alignment of a timber batten fence).
I'm looking to fettle a new dust extraction port under the table pretty soon.
Jon
doctor Bob
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Startrite 352sb, 2007 model for a bargain price of £200.
Eric The Viking
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Allylearm":1keiqkif said:
Thanks for that, Ally.
Somewhat out of my league, :-(, but informative and a great read!
You mentioned coolant. Out of curiosity, on these intermediate-sized models, what is it and how is it usually applied to the blade?
Cheers,
E.
Does anyone have any experience with a Record RPBS8? There's one for sale locally for £60. I cannot find much offical info online but there's one on ebay here (that's not the one I'm looking at buying). Based on the specs I think it is a repackaged version of one of these, there seems to be a few versions about.
I mainly use hand tools but I could do with a small bandsaw for resawing and light ripping. As I understand it a new Tuffsaw blade is recommended.
I mainly use hand tools but I could do with a small bandsaw for resawing and light ripping. As I understand it a new Tuffsaw blade is recommended.
devonwoody
Established Member
You cannot go far wrong at £60 for a bandsaw if it has the specification you need.
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