Bandsaw bearings

[Fergie 307]

Maybe a trip to your local bearing supplier with the parts and see if they have something suitable? I very much doubt you are going to achieve this without some modifications to the associated parts.

 

[pgrbff]

It still seems odd to me that the saw can't be made to work with the existing bearing. When I first used my Basa 1 I thought there wasn't enough adjustment in both the upper and lower guides but by adjusting the position of the blade on the top wheel it worked fine.

 

[Daniel2]

It still seems odd to me that the saw can't be made to work with the existing bearing. When I first used my Basa 1 I thought there wasn't enough adjustment in both the upper and lower guides but by adjusting the position of the blade on the top wheel it worked fine.

My sentiments exactly.

 

[Nail]

That's whatI'm looking for,I"m looking for a smaller dia bearing and stem to mount it on,so I can put it in the brass sleeve the original bearing was in!!

Just buy one of these, put it in a drill and spin it against a file until it’s the diameter you want.

https://www.powertoolspares.com/accessory/73190031-rear-thrust-bearing

 

[mondo]

I've come in late to this discussion, but I can suggest that you try emailing [email protected]. If they don't have the part they might be able to suggest who does.

 

[pgrbff]

I've come in late to this discussion, but I can suggest that you try emailing [email protected]. If they don't have the part they might be able to suggest who does.

I've heard great things about them but I'm still waiting for a reply to an email sent in September 2021. I'm not sure they're keen to deal with enquiries outside the US.

 

[Niall Church]

Here's the thread I made on my bandsaw. The blade guides are used on some Rikon models in the U.S. and appear to be the same used on the Sabre350. The upper guides were easy to change, but not so easy for the lower guides. However, one UK company that sells replacement guides for the BS350S only sells the upper guides since he states they do about 80-percent of the work.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...ide-upgrade-using-rikon-tool-less-kit.124508/

What is the name of the uk company for bs350s replacements?

 

[Niall Church]

Have a look at these: Axminster Workshop HBS350N Bandsaw Blade Guide Set at the very least they are bearings not rubbing blocks and they are oriented the correct way.

This thread may help: New bandsaw guides from Axminster

I would be tempted to get them if i knew they worked,but axminster are doubtful they would fit!

 

[MikeJhn]

What is the name of the uk company for bs350s replacements?

Yandles used to make replacement upper bearings for the BS350, but I don't think they do now, however I have a set languishing in the workshop if you are interested.

 

[Niall Church]

Yandles used to make replacement upper bearings for the BS350, but I don't think they do now, however I have a set languishing in the workshop if you are interested.

Yeah might be,how much and do you have photos,and why are you selling?

 

[Ttrees]

My sentiments exactly.

Seems to me this is a case of removing the table and finding out what's really the issue.
None of those basic introductory videos will help you there, since they're strictly about bandsaw blade setup only.

Tom

 

[Niall Church]

Yandles used to make replacement upper bearings for the BS350, but I don't think they do now, however I have a set languishing in the workshop if you are interested.

I will check,but yandles said they're getting stock back in june or july!

 

[Niall Church]

Seems to me this is a case of removing the table and finding out what's really the issue.
None of those basic introductory videos will help you there, since they're strictly about bandsaw blade setup only.
View attachment 159322
Tom

The issue isn't the lower bearings,and I'm getting a straight cut from soft wood anyway,haven't tried hard wood! It's the top bearings Ibwould like to change especially to thrust bearing!

 

[Ttrees]

What I'm suggesting is the upper wheel carriage assembly might be adjustable, or if not, at least you'd know that was why the guides don't align with the blade.
Can't use a plumbob (which I mentioned earlier) to check this, with the table in the way.
Nothing to do with lower guides.

Hopefully you can adjust the upper wheel so the wheels are plumb,
as with the column and the guidepost ...hopefully.
Thus making it possible to move the guidepost up/down without the side rollers fouling on the blade,
Your photo suggests the whole wheel assembly could be scooted over to the left?
That would stop the thrust from fouling the side roller.
Can't tell as it could be the guidepost not being plumb though, the plumbline would tell all.

and likewise using the plumbline, you can also check for co-planar, so your thrust guide
would also not need adjustment when moving the guidepost up or down.
Evident enough that either the blade is tracking too far back on the lower wheel,
or too far forward on the upper wheel here, as there is an apparent gap at the top of the thrust guide.

I realize that is theoretical at present, but I reckon it's likely the only way you can be sure of anything.

Aligning the wheels being also something to check, since it left the factory like that.


Tom

 

[MikeJhn]

Yeah might be,how much and do you have photos,and why are you selling?

I want £50.00 for it plus postage, photo below, and I don't have the bandsaw anymore.

 

[Niall Church]

What I'm suggesting is the upper wheel carriage assembly might be adjustable, or if not, at least you'd know that was why the guides don't align with the blade.
Can't use a plumbob (which I mentioned earlier) to check this, with the table in the way.
Nothing to do with lower guides.

Hopefully you can adjust the upper wheel so the wheels are plumb,
as with the column and the guidepost ...hopefully.
Thus making it possible to move the guidepost up/down without the side rollers fouling on the blade,
Your photo suggests the whole wheel assembly could be scooted over to the left?
That would stop the thrust from fouling the side roller.
Can't tell as it could be the guidepost not being plumb though, the plumbline would tell all.
View attachment 159330

and likewise using the plumbline, you can also check for co-planar, so your thrust guide
would also not need adjustment when moving the guidepost up or down.
Evident enough that either the blade is tracking too far back on the lower wheel,
or too far forward on the upper wheel here, as there is an apparent gap at the top of the thrust guide.

View attachment 159331

I realize that is theoretical at present, but I reckon it's likely the only way you can be sure of anything.

Aligning the wheels being also something to check, since it left the factory like that.


Tom

I think it inevitable adjustment needed when heigth is changed on these cheap bandsaws Record power have said that is the case with their cheaper range! What do you mean by adjustment of upper wheel,I can adjust blade on upper wheel and it is running and giving straight cuts!
On a side note,I have levelled the table with the blade tensioned,and it's perfect,but the table itself is slightly unlevel,can I assume the groundthe saw is standing on is causing bandsaw tobe unlevel?

 

[Ttrees]

I think it inevitable adjustment needed when heigth is changed on these cheap bandsaws Record power have said that is the case with their cheaper range!

If that's your reasoning as why you don't wish to find out what the actual issue is,
then to me, that doesn't make sense as you're guides are not laterally adjustable on the guidepost.
Say if you did buy new guide setup, then they'd be no point in finding out, it might not be
as adjustable as you might have wished for.
Knowing whether the guidepost moves parallel or in some direction, might well prove useful.

What do you mean by adjustment of upper wheel

By finding out how the carriage assembly is mounted, should it be adjustable,
scooting your wheel to the left (towards the chassis column)
would enable you to have the guides mounting central,
and depending on your guidepost having some error, then you could use what little adjustment there is on the side roller guides.



As said, these machines are slapped together, so you might as well check it before damage
might become apparent, jobs what's probably the cost of the machine to repair.
But that's the same as with any machine.

Good luck
Tom

 

[Niall Church]

If that's your reasoning as why you don't wish to find out what the actual issue is,
then to me, that doesn't make sense as you're guides are not laterally adjustable on the guidepost.
Say if you did buy new guide setup, then they'd be no point in finding out, it might not be
as adjustable as you might have wished for.
Knowing whether the guidepost moves parallel or in some direction, might well prove useful.



By finding out how the carriage assembly is mounted, should it be adjustable,
scooting your wheel to the left (towards the chassis column)
would enable you to have the guides mounting central,
and depending on your guidepost having some error, then you could use what little adjustment there is on the side roller guides.



As said, these machines are slapped together, so you might as well check it before damage
might become apparent, jobs what's probably the cost of the machine to repair.
But that's the same as with any machine.

Good luck
Tom

While I'm on this thread,the ruler fence,thingy with numbers on it ,that slides fence in and out,isn't set right! Do I reset it by sliding fence in next to the blade and set ruler to zero,or set it by sliding fence to out to edge of table? I know the ruler can be adjusted by loosening a screw and moving the ruler !

 

[Ttrees]

That would be relative to the position of the top wheel, should you be able adjust it.

Tom

 

[Fergie 307]

While I'm on this thread,the ruler fence,thingy with numbers on it ,that slides fence in and out,isn't set right! Do I reset it by sliding fence in next to the blade and set ruler to zero,or set it by sliding fence to out to edge of table? I know the ruler can be adjusted by loosening a screw and moving the ruler !

I wouldn't worry about it, the numbers are only a guide. Accurate setting should always be done to a mark on the work, or using a steel rule or caliper depending on the accuracy you are looking for. Otherwise you will be forever 're zeroing it for different blades.