American Black Walnut Drawer Unit

[motownmartin]

Very clever, Looks good too =D>

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

Are those fillets glued in? would this be a potential problem with the movement of the parts?

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Are those fillets glued in? would this be a potential problem with the movement of the parts?

Oh Jesus! forgot about movement, with the grain of the sides running the same way as the top I had got it in to my head everything was ok. Many thanks for spotting it. I'll attack it tomorrow with a jigsaw or chisel a v and cut it in two three separate pieces. :shock:

 

[Shultzy]

Its going to look spectacular when its finished. You certainly have an impressive array of clamps.

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

One way to do it would be to keep the fillet square, and screw from both sides in a slotted hole.
I have seen a router cutter that makes a counter sunk slot, would be perfect for this application
http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Slot_Countersink_161.html

 

[Lord Nibbo]

MTP (Moretoolsplease) pointed out I had a potential cross grain problem so this morning I cured the problem by chopping out the fillet and making it three fillets, this was done to the other end as well. I had to compromise where I made the gaps because the boards on the top are not the same width as the boards on the end pieces.

The face frame for the back panel has to have slots cut to house loose panels, here I am cutting a 6mm wide slot and with two passes will be 7mm deep. (sorry about the focusing)

Top rear face rail done. But not without a mishap

The mishap, I dropped the board on the floor and broke off a great chunk right on the corned of the mitre It took me more than half a hour to find the missing bit, boxxxxks anyway I did eventually find it, I just hope it blends in when the finish is applied.

Rear face end pieces fitted both with a stopped housing/dado, dunno which it should be called, going more senial every day.

Front face lower rail fitted. this one is fitted using just glue and two pocket screws each end.

:lol:

 

[devonwoody]

Good job you lost it in your workshop, it would have taken much longer in mine.

Coming along nicely.

 

[ByronBlack]

Thats looking nice, i'm sure once it's sanded and finished you won't even see the mistake - I have a few small ones like that on my table leg to repair after they blew whilest chopping the mortices, now they are glues it's quite hard to see them unless you are looking specifically for them.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

The stiles that divide the drawers were fitted this morning so the front face is done. They are fitted using two pocket screws at each end.

Back face rails and stiles routed out with a 6mm groove and will be fixed to the unit using floating/loose tenons.

With the tenons glued to the carcase all the parts are dry fitted to check the sizes for the panels.

I had to Rip two boards down so each panel can be bookmarked. There was quite a lot of stress relieved after doing this and it was a close call if there was going to be enough thickness to get them flat, I managed it but only just.

A quick scrape

I ripped off the sapwood and here i'm using my small panel sledge to cut them to size

All four panels fitted with no glue, just a good sand and scrape off tomorrow then I can fit the draw guides, with that done the body is finished.... Just four draws to make.

:lol:

A question about the drawers, I've built this with a mind that the draw fronts will be flush with the face, but I'm mulling over the fact that I could make them a little bigger and have them protruding out the thickness of the front, or I could even leave them the same size as the opening and let them recess say about 1/4" so they look much like the back panels. What does the forum think?

 

[devonwoody]

I can see you had a busy day, late posting your lordship.

Giving the drawers some thought.

 

[Slim]

Really nice LN. I wouldn't recess the drawers, it might look like they are badly fitting. If it were me, I would fit them flush.

 

[woodbloke]

LN wrote -

A question about the drawers, I've built this with a mind that the draw fronts will be flush with the face, but I'm mulling over the fact that I could make them a little bigger and have them protruding out the thickness of the front, or I could even leave them the same size as the opening and let them recess say about 1/4" so they look much like the back panels. What does the forum think?

Usual practice is to set the drawer fronts back around 1 or 2mm from the front surface to create a shadow gap, but it all depends on the type of effect that you're after - Rob

 

[DomValente]

Boy you work fast LN, wanna job

I would leave the drawers flush on this piece, I feel it would work better, but only if you can get them dead flush.

Dom

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Boy you work fast LN, wanna job

I would leave the drawers flush on this piece, I feel it would work better, but only if you can get them dead flush.

Dom

No problems with that I had intended to make them about 1" short then screw a stop behind the drawer, I could even make that adjustable and try woodblokes sugestion.

Another question what wood for the drawer sides and back?

 

[Jez]

looking great so far

 

[devonwoody]

Another question what wood for the drawer sides and back?

I usually go to my offcut box. but traditionally dont they use any seasoned timber available for these parts and the least expensive

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Another question what wood for the drawer sides and back?

I usually go to my offcut box. but traditionally dont they use any seasoned timber available for these parts and the least expensive

First thoughts were tulip/poplar, what is the most common used?

edit....

Just had another thought about the fronts, which way should the grain run? they are nearly square, the rails are obviously running horizontal but the uprights the grain is vertical, everything tells me it should be horizontal but I'm not so sure.... :?

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

I would go for horizontal, then you can have a continuous grain running across the piece

 

[devonwoody]

aren't sides and back always horizontal

 

[woodbloke]

Another question what wood for the drawer sides and back?

I usually go to my offcut box. but traditionally dont they use any seasoned timber available for these parts and the least expensive

First thoughts were tulip/poplar, what is the most common used?

edit....

Just had another thought about the fronts, which way should the grain run? they are nearly square, the rails are obviously running horizontal but the uprights the grain is vertical, everything tells me it should be horizontal but I'm not so sure.... :?

LN - almost any timber can be used providing it's hard wearing and stable (not prone to movement) Generally quarter sawn oak is used about 8-10mm thick for the sides and a little thinner for the back. A better colour match for the ABW might be some hard maple if you've got any in stock. The drawer front grain should I think be horizontal, this would also give scope to make some half-lapped d/t's for the front joints - Rob