What's this saw worth? (14" Disston )

[DennisCA]

Someone is selling this saw locally and they're asking 28 euros for it (8 more in shipping), is this a good price for this saw? I've been looking at a saw to make dovetail joints with for a small project and this looks to fit the bill. I've also read about japanese pull saws, sold for similar prices new. But I appreciate old tools.

Seller has lots of images here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/finnberg6 ... 479642159/

Edit: There's a good description in the top of the gallery too, sharpened and set, looks good to me. Providing such a wealth of images speaks of seriousness as well.

 

[RogerP]

As a seller on eBay that's about the sort of price I'd expect it to make.

If you're primarily wanting to cut dovetails rather than collect nice old saws I think you'd be better off buying new - unless this one has recently been to a good saw doctor (which I doubt).

 

[DennisCA]

Yeah I don't collect, even if I prefer old tools I buy them with intent to use, I also don't like having many similar tools just cluttering up the place, I'd rather get one special tool for the task I intend and keep it for as long as possible.

Any recommendations for new tools?

 

[bugbear]

Looks to have a ferocious case of cows and calves, so it's not a "nicely sharpened saw" (which might be worth the price) it's a "saw needing sharpening" which I don't think is worth the money being asked.

BugBear

 

[RogerP]

Any recommendations for new tools?

Obvious contenders are the Lie-Nielsen, the Veritas and the more expensive Thomas Flinn Pax 1776.

I have the Veritas (rip filed) with which I'm happy. I've tried the Lie-Nielsen and really couldn't see much difference in performance. I've not used the Pax.

I'm no cabinet making expert and I'm sure others will have different opinions.

 

[Roughcut]

I notice that is a 14" 13tpi crosscut tenon saw.
I would think a smaller rip saw might be better for dovetails.

 

[DennisCA]

I checked out the lee nielsen saws and those prices are so far out of my reach it's not funny. I would say the price this saw goes for is the upper limit of what I'd spend on a hand saw.

Another reason I often look for used and new hardly ever. I do not think I could bring myself to spending such money on a hand saw even if I won the lottery. If those are the cheap saws then I need not bother looking up the other two names.

 

[Roughcut]

Any recommendations for new tools?

Obvious contenders are the Lie-Nielsen, the Veritas and the more expensive Thomas Flinn Pax 1776.

I have the Veritas (rip filed) with which I'm happy. I've tried the Lie-Nielsen and really couldn't see much difference in performance. I've not used the Pax.

I'm no cabinet making expert and I'm sure others will have different opinions.

I would second the recommendation of the Veritas saws.
I have the Carcass Rip and Crosscut saws and reckon they are good value for money and sharp.
The 20 tpi Veritas Dovetail Saw is in the post to me and should be here any day now.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310240867620? ... EBIDX%3AIT
£50 delivered in UK.

 

[DennisCA]

50 is a lot lower than the prices I saw so perhaps more doable, but not at the moment.

 

[RogerP]

50 is a lot lower than the prices I saw so perhaps more doable, but not at the moment.

eBay 190481113939
Veritas Dovetail Saw 230mm x 14tpi £49.50 free delivery in UK - they may do a deal for Finland?

 

[DennisCA]

I did find a finnish dealer just now where they had the Veritas Dovetail Saw 14 TPI and the Fine Tooth version of the same saw, both €55.80, which I think is more or less the same price as in pounds. Both look very enticing. the question then is fine vs normal tooth?

 

[memzey]

I bought one just like that but in slightly better condition at a boot fair for £2.50 a month or so ago. Lovely saw.

 

[Dangermouse.]

All my saws are old or second hand, you can get marvellous saws on eBay or boot sales. But you have to look for them, the last was a mint dovetail saw by Pax for a fiver. if you need a dovetail saw this one isn't it.

 

[RogerP]

...... the question then is fine vs normal tooth?

I have two one is 14tpi ripcut and the other is 16tpi crosscut. Either does the job depending on size of joint and the timber but the 14tpi ripcut is really the one for dovetails.

 

[SurreyHills]

I seem to recall that the Veritas fine is the same overall thickness as the 14TPI (blade width and set) and that the fine (20TPI?) tends to clog up more easily. I have the 14 TPI and am very happy with it.


Cheers
Andy

 

[Jacob]

Someone is selling this saw locally and they're asking 28 euros for it (8 more in shipping), is this a good price for this saw? I've been looking at a saw to make dovetail joints with for a small project and this looks to fit the bill. I've also read about japanese pull saws, sold for similar prices new. But I appreciate old tools.

Seller has lots of images here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/finnberg6 ... 479642159/

Edit: There's a good description in the top of the gallery too, sharpened and set, looks good to me. Providing such a wealth of images speaks of seriousness as well.

Looks old and knackered, a lot of blade used up, heavily "restored", I wouldn't bother with it at all. You'd get better value at a car boot.
For a new saw I'd look at Stanley, Footprint, etc. They are simple devices and only as good as the last sharpening. 2nd hand often very good value.

 

[DennisCA]

I got a mail from Paul Seller's this morning (we're close personal friends, actually I just subscribed to his blog...) and it mentioned Gent's saws and he seems to prefer them to "pistol gripped" saws. They're now of interest too, there's a bunch of (new) Thomas Flinn PAX saws for about 20 euros locally.

Anyone have any experience with these saws of this particular brand in particular, or gent's saws vs regular saws in general?

 

[RogerP]

I have one of these http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Pax-8-inch-20tpi-Gentlemans-Saw.html which I think is the one you mention.

It's very nice to use, I do find it a bit on the fine side for anything other than very small work but I suppose that's what it's made for. Ideal for small box and drawer dovetails providing you can get on with the straight handle and I know not everyone can.

 

[DennisCA]

I have never tried, I can just imagine it and that feels wrong to me. So I guess I am still leaning towards the veritas saw.

 

[heimlaga]

My back saws are both 13 teeth per inch and 14 inches long. I have filed one rip and the other crosscut. I find that size to be practical for making just about any joint i make. However many others like shorter back saws better. It is just a matter of personal preferences and the scale of the work one makes. Just like some prefere finer teeth while I don't.
Despite plenty of Americans claiming the opposite on the internet I find it practical to have two back saws. It is proven impossible to crosscut with a rip filed saw in our soft local woods and ripping with a cross cut saw is just too slow and frustrating.

That Disston looks like a good saw but in that condition 28 euros should include shipping to be anywhere near a reasonable price. 10 or 15 euros is the most I would be prepared to pay for it. After all the saw plate is the only part that really matters so the width of the saw plate determines the remaining lifetime of the saw. The back and the handle can be made new when needed but I have yet to find a remedy for worn out saw plates.

Elderly Sandvik 308 back saws with the rounded black or squarish blue plastic handle (1970ies to 1980-ies) have good steel in them. They often turn up cheap at flea markets in Finland and sometimes for free in local dumpsters. It is easy to make a better handle from a piece of birch and then you will have a pretty good back saw for 5 euros or less. If you choose to go this route just watch out so that you don't end up with one that has hardened teeth but most of them are resharpenable.
I might have one I could sell if you are interrested....... but I am not sure until I have checked in the attic.....