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Tenoner Removing Top Head Nut Multico TM1

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pollys13

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I put releasing oil on nut of the bottom head last night and tried to squirt some up into the top nut.
In reply to my other post I was told the bottom head has a left hand thread, clockwise to loosen I got that undone quite easily.

The top head nut, anti clockwise to loosen I'm having trouble with this. I've put a half scaffold pole as a lever over the socket handle, the nut won't budge.

See photo C red arrow showing direction I'm moving the ratchet handle. I am trying to move in the correct direction?
Cheers.
 

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Mike Jordan

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Wrong way! That is a normal thread. You are being confused by the fact that's it's inverted.
 

Trevanion

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I think you’re tightening it, you want to loosen them the same way they rotate when operating.

NEVER put a scaffold pole on a ratchet, especially when working on machines. You’re going to snap, bend or weaken the spindle shaft by doing that.
 

pollys13

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Top head, looking up at the nut from underneath, the socket on the ratchet is set to turn anti clockwise, moving the ratchet handle in the direction of the arrow does this.
So I'm going in the wrong direction?
If I try to squirt releasing fluid in from the top will get on the belt?
 

Trevanion

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You need to loosen it off the same direction the head spins while it is running.
 

pollys13

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Trevanion":3o1hwacd said:
You need to loosen it off the same direction the head spins while it is running.
Just tried doing that, still won't budge, didn't use scaffold pole this time.
 

pollys13

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There are guys on the forum who restore machinery including the Multico Tenoner. They should be able to say how to get the top nut off I'll ask them.
 

deema

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Looking at the photo, you need to untighten it by turning the nut in the opposite direction to the arrow. It is undone by rotating it in the same direction as you did for the bottom block, clockwise as you look down onto it. Because it’s upside down this is actually rotating the nut in the opposite direction to the bottom nut.

I’d squirt some penetration oil on it from the top and bottom and wait overnight before trying again, tap the wrench with a copper faced hammer a few times, often the impact will loosen it. If that fails using a blow torch warm up just the nut / thread before trying again.
 

pollys13

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Just tried again, right direction this time, no joy.Have squirted a load of penetrating oil on top of the shaft and through the small gap above the drive belt and a few squirts up under the nut. Will oil getting on the drive belt cause it to slip, if so is it possible to remove
oil? If still no joy will try butane blow torch.
 

Trevanion

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You might need the scaffold pole again to take it back off since you've tightened it as tight as you could with the scaffold pole.

Just don't do it again :p
 

pollys13

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Trevanion":2lvkcuq2 said:
You might need the scaffold pole again to take it back off since you've tightened it as tight as you could with the scaffold pole.

Just don't do it again :p
Too right, have banged a couple of times with club hammer, wrapped in face towel, still no luck. Used a 32mm socket to get 30mm bottom nut of easily enough, had put penetrating oil on it first.
Was told should have used a 30mm socket as could bruise the nut, then I would be in a right mess.
Will contact local garage mate in morning if can borrow for an hour suitable sized locking bar for spindle and 30mm socket. Hey Ho :)
Will keep updated.
 

tomatwark

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From memory I used a no3 pozi drive screw driver as a locking bar through the hole.

Take the towel off the hammer, it will soften the blow.
 

pollys13

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Got the nut undone, bent several screwdrivers and snapped couple of spade bits. Used bolt cutters to get one bent screwdriver out of hole.... hey ho:)

When I got the top nut off, the head wasn't interested in coming off the shaft. So I moved a bit of timber around the perimeter of the block, giving it quite a few hard wacks.

Looking at photos have I knocked the spindle assembly down a bit? The drive belt is not level and quite a big gap.

I just bought a 30mm socket for future use. I'll also inquire what is hardest steel and get a section of round bar in that, to use as a locking bar.Anyone know the torque setting for doing up the nuts?Is releasing fluid on the belt going to be a problem?
Cheers.
 

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tomatwark

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Put new belts on.

They will only be a few quid.
I would take out the top spindle and replace the bearings while you have it this far apart.
Once you have done it up you probably will never need to remove the heads again.
 

Trevanion

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pollys13":2pyt06bs said:
I'll also inquire what is hardest steel and get a section of round bar in that
A short length of Silver Steel would be more than strong enough for that job, you start getting into hardened steels and you'll have to get a few extra notes out of your pocket. It just needs to be a snugger fit in the hole rather than a sloppy fit which allows things to bend and snap, A hardened steel rod is more likely to snap anyway rather than something with a little more flex.

Why are you taking off the heads anyway? Putting on some fancy safety cutters or stack tooling?
 

pollys13

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Trevanion":25f0wf7d said:
pollys13":25f0wf7d said:
I'll also inquire what is hardest steel and get a section of round bar in that
A short length of Silver Steel would be more than strong enough for that job, you start getting into hardened steels and you'll have to get a few extra notes out of your pocket. It just needs to be a snugger fit in the hole rather than a sloppy fit which allows things to bend and snap, A hardened steel rod is more likely to snap anyway rather than something with a little more flex.

Why are you taking off the heads anyway? Putting on some fancy safety cutters or stack tooling?
" A short length of Silver Steel " OK cheers. I had the heads on Ebay..... for ages, as won't use them, not as safe as the new style. I was a bit shocked and surprised..... just sold them £175 the pair, won't buy new heads as can't afford them or justify their purchase, just at the moment

Have a set of Axminster scribing gouges to match the moulds on house door stiles and a moulding head and a set of moulding cutters for the spindle. Was keeping an eye on Ebay for the Whitehill style heads, or Leitz heads,if they could take scribing cutters. Needless to say they hardly ever come up, if at all. That said a set of new style Whitehill ones did come up on Ebay a few weeks ago, fair enough would come in handy for future use, if half price of new. Buyer bid less than £100 new for pair..... no thanks :)
 

pollys13

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tomatwark":3clw5awh said:
Put new belts on.

They will only be a few quid.
I would take out the top spindle and replace the bearings while you have it this far apart.
Once you have done it up you probably will never need to remove the heads again.
seller described item, " " This machine has been comprehensively stripped, thoroughly cleaned, serviced and reassembled and supplied in perfect working order. " I also asked for possible future reference and he told me Belt size SPZ 710, spindle bearings SKF 6205 ZZ.

I suppose I could tell if bearings are sound by the sound of it running? Though as have sold heads now and not buying safer style Whitehill heads that might not be so easy. How seller described machine assume bearings are ok.
 

tomatwark

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Are you saying you bought a perfectly good machine and then sold the heads off it without buying a new set.
Therefore making the machine unusable.
Why?
Other thing to note that if you buy whitehill heads, you won't need a 30mm socket.
Whitehill heads come with their own special nuts, if buying second hand make sure they are with them.
Otherwise you will need to go to whitehill for them.
 

pollys13

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tomatwark":352fcig8 said:
Are you saying you bought a perfectly good machine and then sold the heads off it without buying a new set.
Therefore making the machine unusable.
Why?
Other thing to note that if you buy whitehill heads, you won't need a 30mm socket.
Whitehill heads come with their own special nuts, if buying second hand make sure they are with them.
Otherwise you will need to go to whitehill for them.
Are you saying you bought a perfectly good machine and then sold the heads off it without buying a new set.
Therefore making the machine unusable.
Why?

The machine was available at a very good price and I'm not going to be using it just yet. I just requested to cancel the 30mm socket, thanks for that. Do the Whitehill nuts require a special socket?
 
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