Setting up planer thicknessers

[gidon]

How accurately do you get the blades set (parallel to the outfeed table)? I spent an hour last night readjusting the planer blades. The Scheppach 260 comes with a little jig that must get pulled exactly 3mm on rotating the drum, on each blade on either side of the blade. The trouble is this is made of metal and the blade doesn't always grip it too well. So I used a planed piece of wood to do the same job. But incredibly fiddly to get spot on. So how spot on do you get it? I found that mine was way out before I set it. And I then guess you have to be sure that the thicknessing bed is exactly parallel to the outfeed table? Not sure if that's adjustable.
But when the blades weren't correctly set I was getting a visible taper from right to left (across the wood).
Intested to hear your thoughts?
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Gidon

Every time I read one of your postings about the Scheppach P/T, you seem to be encountering problems but overcoming them.

Are you still pleased with your purchase?

Cheers

A very interested Neil

 

[gidon]

Like any new piece of machinery there's a learning curve. Most things would be the same with any p/t. In fact a lot don't even come with a knive setting jog.

Sometime you don't notice these setup issues straight away - I did in this case because I was planing 8" wide oak. I think in fact according to a review I read, that the Scheppach is easier to setup (the knives that is) than others because the knives rest on bolts rather than springs.

I'm very pleased with the machine. As to how it compares to others it's very hard to say - this being the only one of tried! I certainly couldn't say everything about it is perfect. But at this price point it's a good bit of kit. And it enables me to do things I haven't been able to before.

If you have the money and space to have a p/t in your new workshop I would certainly go for it - not sure how I've got by without!

Cheers

Gidon

 

[Argus]

I sympathise. It is never less than fiddly and I always have a moral problem with metal jigs in close proximity to my nice sharp planer knives.

I have an old Kity that has two knives, and I have never used a jig for this – I tend towards the ‘2 bits of bit of wood method’.

These are some tips I have evolved that work well for me.

1. Get two identical strips of well dried hard wood, about 18” – 2 feet long. I use Oak due to the extra weight, even so I have embedded some metal nuts in the top surface at equal distances to increase it. You don’t want wood that is likely to skate about on the tables, but you do want positive movement.
2. Ensure that the bottom surface in contact with the tables is dead flat along its length. At this point I rub a candle or some wax along it.
3. About a quarter of the distance from one end, on the side of each piece of wood, scribe two parallel lines about 1.5 mm apart with a square and sharp knife.
4. The rest is hit and miss technique that you probably know. What you are trying to do is not to get the smallest amount of forward movement on all the knives, rather exactly the same amount on all the knives, because you can take up finer points of adjustment on the infeed table height.

My problem was always following the instructions to use some ‘scrap bits of wood’ as movement gauges too literally – you need good, heavy, accurately planed bits.


Hope it helps.

 

[gidon]

Sorry Argus - I missed your post - thanks. I actually ended up using that exact method - and found it far more accurate / easy. I may try the candle wax idea.
Ah the joys of setting up tools - I'm just having fun with my new TS2000 table saw (gloat, gloat).
Cheers
Gidon

 

[dennyk]

Rutlands sell a pair of jigs to set your planer blades, IMHO there are a godsend, I had problems setting the 3 blades on my Tendo P/T untill I bought them, now I replace my blades including setting the height in about 10 minutes.

 

[Chris Knight]

Denny,
Please look at the dates of the posts! You are replying to one that is more than two years old.

 

[dennyk]

Sorry about that, being a newbie I thought I could help someone who like me who has not seen the previous posts.

I will refrain from this in future.

 

[Chris Knight]

Denny,

I wasn't saying you couldn't do this - just pointing out something you might not have spotted. Sorry if it came across as peremptory.

 

[devonwoody]

Rutlands sell a pair of jigs to set your planer blades, IMHO there are a godsend, I had problems setting the 3 blades on my Tendo P/T untill I bought them, now I replace my blades including setting the height in about 10 minutes.

Dennyk, you did me a good turn opening up that one.

Please come down to Torbay it takes me all afternoon to set up my P/T.

 

[dennyk]

HI Chris

That's OK
From your first post, I took it that there was a time limit to post replies.

As a newbie to this forum I was trawling through all the previous posts to see if there was anything I could learn or give anyone a tip I had picked up, my premise is

" you are never to old to learn something new"

 

[dennyk]

Hi Devon

I'm glad to be of assistance, It's a bit far from liverpool to Torbay about 5 or 6 hours in my 827, if you were a bit nearer I would come, if you get them adjuster gizmos from Rutland you will find them a doddle to use.

BTW the brand name is DAKOTA, the number in the latest Rutlands catalogue is DKPNJIG Price is £39.95 inc VAT.

The web address is www.rutlands.co.uk

 

[Waka]

Denny

Do you need to take off both tables to use that jig?

 

[Anonymous]

Gidon

not familiar with your cutter block but on the SIP there are small jacking screws and so it is very easy to sert the dlades exactly in alignment with the outfeed table

I tried setting them just proud of the outfeed table as the manual reccomends, but this resulted in snipe

 

[dennyk]

Hi Waka

I just tilt both tables on my P/T out of the way

 

[devonwoody]

I've got the SIP p/t and I am in a good mood at the moment, I haven't had any snipe for weeks. Just hoping the blades don't get blunt :wink:
It usually takes me an afternoon before I'm satisfied otherwise.

 

[gidon]

How nostalgic! Reminds me I really should sharpen those planer blades! Now how did I end up setting the blades .
Cheers
Gidon

 

[dennyk]

I have ordered a DAKOTA Planer Knfe Hone from Rutland's , they reckon you can Hone your blades in situ, it's on back order, I'll let you know how it works when I get it.

 

[gidon]

I have ordered a DAKOTA Planer Knfe Hone from Rutland's , they reckon you can Hone your blades in situ, it's on back order, I'll let you know how it works when I get it.

I just use a small fine credit card diamond stone (DMT) to sharpen the blades in situ. Very easy to do - and that's the reason I've never (yet) had to take the blades out of the machine! I'm sure your thing on order will do a similiar job.

Cheers

Gidon

 

[DaveL]

I have ordered a DAKOTA Planer Knfe Hone from Rutland's

Is this the wooden block with a diamond coated square bar fitted on two sides? I bought one from Axminster sometime ago. Yes you can hone the blades insitu, needs a bit of care but its good at helping to keep the blades cutting cleanly. I use mine on a regular basis, saves the hassel of blade changing too often.