My gripe with good enough is that means differing things to different folks.
Having had the experience of three differing manufacturers having wheel issues,
you might understand where I'm coming from.
I've only seen evidence of two methods regarding wheel alignment before,
which dealt with this,
I'll just give the link
Noting that inspection of the bore needs doing first!
Another thing worth noting, both these machines below seemingly are direct drive
so one less thing to align...
Another telling tale to me, as I've seen some frankly surprising results from the likes of the little Inca machine, which might suggest there's possibly something to this, and not just for concern of wear of the bores, but for performance sake also.
http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7269&p=120635&hilit=inca#p120635
And for
@pgrbff another book mentioned if you're interested, what's on page 1.
Not read it, so unsure if it's any good.
Some bizarre stuff out there, like dressing tires freehand using a paddle, daft carry on really,
I would hope it's not as simple a rundown as you could write, as the review of sorts mentioned swapping wheels over, so at least a nod from a maintenance perspective regarding blending tire wear, which would presumably go into detail regarding the ability to
track the blade on both wheels the same, so it might well mention east-west jacking shaft alignment aswell.
https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/tools/power-tools/1381828-bandsaw-woes
and mention of at least one method to denote a problem by way of dynamic tests which Trevanion mentioned over at TWH2, but I didn't query him about it.
I guess removing the table is too much effort for some folk when time is money, and presumably a
tooled up machine room is nearby.
Not checking alignment is asking for trouble, if you ask me,
and yet to see anything else other than above what could be considered reliable .
though I've read through many other suggestions and tips before which turned out to be rubbish.
I guess this suggestion might be in some book, should it not, a time is money/too lazy to do it right and remove the table method, might be
simply tracking the blade as needed for the block to register against the wheel rims,
and adjusting the lower wheel so equal scuffing is present on all,
still a bit chancy for my liking.
Saying that, it's more than a bit difficult to spot bore error without the lines,
and no reason it wouldn't be possible with an assembled machine,
and should one be doing those dynamic tests instead of what I've demonstrated,
(which needs be done prior, there's no question about that)
then it makes no sense to start off identifying a problem without anything to go on beyond knowing its off.
It seems a touchy subject to some...
The taking of insult, coming mostly from those who've been either lucky straight off the bat,
or those who use their machine for curve cutting tasks and never looked twice at the saw.
Plenty proof out there to make one question things, like perfect bearings in worn bores,
or simply the fact of noticeable performance without excuses,
i.e like breaking the rules and using a dull blade if need be,
many folks saws wouldn't like that,
Longer duration of things wearing (tires and thrust guides) and noise reduction are other clues,
that the saw is running well, but not much point in mentioning beam tension for a 12" machine,
just mentioning that the bandsaw often seems to take a back seat, say compared to a bog standard TS, should one be looking for details or techniques of alignment and whatnot,
we don't settle for less regarding that.
All the best
Tom
