Scheppach TS2500CI saw - where to buy ?

[Digizz]

If anyone is interested - and for the record, apparently the TS2500ci is now shipping with more of the base unit assembled (mine was a large collection of nuts and bolts!). Still not got confirmation that Scheppach are including a better manual though - i'll be chasing that.

Fantastic saw though

 

[devonwoody]

To asleitch

Looking at the paving stones of your picture with sawtable it looks around 4 slabs wide.
Is that 8ft or 6ft.

 

[Adam]

To asleitch

Looking at the paving stones of your picture with sawtable it looks around 4 slabs wide.
Is that 8ft or 6ft.

Erm, not sure, I've already forgotten what size slabs they are, I'll make a note, and aim to measure it this evening. It's worth noting I use it with the right-hand table folded down inside the workshop (behind), with the sliding table permanently attached along with a P/T, full size workbench, woodrat, 3 bikes, shelving etc - the shed is 8 x 10 foot I think. Lets just say its a squeeze. It is worth it however, for the quality of the saw, and the sliding carriage is excellent, the best I've seen on any saw (ok felder not included!), I find I use the sliding carriage far far more than I could possibly have imagined. I use it for ripping far less than I imagined.

Adam

 

[Chris Knight]

I find I use the sliding carriage far far more than I could possibly have imagined. I use it for ripping far less than I imagined.

I cut all my sheet goods to size in the garage with a circular saw - it used to be more or less to size but since buying the Festool saw I now cut them exactly to size and as a result, find myself agreeing with Adam's comment on the infrequent need for (wide) ripping.

In my small workshop I deliberated long and hard before buying the Scheppach TS 4010. Since I bought it, I find the extension table an absolute blessing. With it up, I use it as a wide saw or more often, an assembly table that can quickly be folded away when not needed. The saw I had before (a TS2000) was neither one thing nor the other. Big enough to get in the way - too small to be useful as anything but a (smallish) saw and whilst extension tables etc. overcame many of its limitations, none could overcome its small depth of cut.

I have also discovered a range of things I can better do with the extension table up including :-

a) Using a sled - as favoured by the Americans - for stuff which I cannot do with a sliding table
b) Making covings of various shapes - by running the workpiece over the blade at an angle, requiring a long fence to be fixed at an angle (just off a right angle) to the blade.

 

[Digizz]

Chris,

Do you use a featherboard on your saw at all? If so, which one and how do you fix it in place?

I was cutting some smaller pieces the other day and could have done with a couple.

 

[Chris Knight]

Digizz,
Yes I do occasionally. It's the classic bit of wood with angled saw cuts. I fix it to the table using the mitre guide slide (that is just the tee cross-sectioned metal slide, that has a handy screwed hole in it) . This does not lock the slide to the saw table but it generally stays where I want it. If not, it needs surprisingly little pressure to make it stay put - I use a finger or masking tape.

I have tee shaped slots on my saw and for various things (like my cross cut sled but including a featherboard if I could be bothered) I make up tee shaped runners by rebating the edge of a board on both faces, then ripping off a strip of the right thickness on the table saw.

If you use a bolt with a countersunk head in a hole with a couple of longitudinal saw cuts intersecting it , you can make the bolt pull up and expand the runner, thus locking it in the slot - Can be applied to featherboards and all sorts of stuff you want stationary in a slot

 

[Digizz]

Ah good point

Just needs a little thought then.

I think the T slots on my TS2500ci should be the same as yours - unless they're changed the design going to cast iron.

Oh, and what kind of timber is best to make a featherboard out of?

 

[Chris Knight]

Oh, and what kind of timber is best to make a featherboard out of?.

I have used just any scrap hardwood I had available with "feathers" not exceeding 1/8 inch in thickness - probably about 3/32 on average.

 

[Adam]

To asleitch

Looking at the paving stones of your picture with sawtable it looks around 4 slabs wide.
Is that 8ft or 6ft.

According to my measurements, the table (with the right hand table attached, but folded down) is 75cm. The bar of the sliding arm adds 12 cm which hooked on, and if you keep the sliding arm sled permenantly attached (the only time it's ever been off is that picture above, and I took it off as A) it weighs so much and B) I needed it removed to get in and out the door), the sled including the fence needs 75cm from the edge of the table... so you need 1.5m as the minimum space side to side (and if you are cutting long stock to size as much extra space as you can get) and the bar of the sliding table is 1.4m, although you tend to stand in the space near where it juts out, so it's not "lost" space by any means. You can quickly remove the sliding bar, and also slide it forward and backward relative to the saw. Due to space limitations, I have it flush with the back of the saw, and protruding at the front, so I can tuck the saw right into a corner.

Adam

 

[Digizz]

Adam,

I found that the height and tilt adjustments went slightly out the window when moving the sliding bar backwards and forwards. Only by a mm or two though - maybe I need to spend some more time adjusting it over the full range of movement - there must be a happy medium somewhere.

 

[Adam]

Adam,

I found that the height and tilt adjustments went slightly out the window when moving the sliding bar backwards and forwards. Only by a mm or two though - maybe I need to spend some more time adjusting it over the full range of movement - there must be a happy medium somewhere.

Qe?

Of the blade? Don't follow I'm afraid! Whatever it is, it doesn't happen on mine!

Adam

 

[Digizz]

I meant the adjustment of the sliding table - when you build/fit it, you have to adjust the height and slope of the sliding cariage.

When I then move the bar forwards or backwards, this height and slope adjustment changes slightly (which I guess is to be expected as the fixing bars have a little play in them).

 

[Adam]

I meant the adjustment of the sliding table - when you build/fit it, you have to adjust the height and slope of the sliding cariage.

When I then move the bar forwards or backwards, this height and slope adjustment changes slightly (which I guess is to be expected as the fixing bars have a little play in them).

No idea I'm afraid, mine arrived all setup, until such time as I think their is a problem, I'm not one for fishing around looking to find adjusters. Like I said, mine seems spot on, so wherever the adjustment is, it does seem to work.

Adam

 

[SimonA]

Digizz......I think you need to shim out the sliding carriage bar at the far end of the table. I had a simialr problem with mine. You should have got some shims in with the saw.

SimonA

 

[Digizz]

Ahhhhh!

Yes - I didn't install any - the manual as Adam mentioned - was rubbish! It said fit shims if using - and that was all!

Any pointers as to how to select/fit/adjust them?

Thanks.

 

[SimonA]

Geezz that was a quick reply fella!!

Just loosen of the buts and bolts that hold the sliding carriage bar onto the side of the tablesaw and drop in the shims, tighten it all back up and try it again. Unfortunatly you have to keep doing this untill its running true.

As for the height run out all I can suggest is that adjust both the bolts untill they are at either full top or bottom of their holes. Preferably at the top, it would be a bit hard to use the sliding table if its lower than the table saw bed!

SimonA

 

[Digizz]

Thanks - I shall go experiment later (now I've got all my work out of the way before holiday next week )