Scheppach TS2500ci set up and operation help

[Carver]

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and just starting out in woodworking with the help of some of my friends and hope fully you guys too.

I've been fortunate to become the owner of a Scheppach TS2500ci complete with side extension table and slider and would be very grateful for some help with setup and use. The 'manual' I have is really just assembly instructions.

Re: setup.
- How is the blade adjusted to align it with the table slots?

- How is the slider adjusted to align it with the blade?

- The surface of the slider bearings has suffered a little and consequently 'rumble' and the slider feels rough when moved. Any one know where I can get new bearings and what the spec is(I can't work out what the markings on them mean to allow me to source them)?


Re: operation
- I've been watching Youtube videos (Extremewoodworker, Manor Wood, Sam Blasco) on how to use sliding table saws but they all relate to those that have a slider that runs right up to the blade with a T sot in it (Minimax, Hammer) which the TS2500 doesn't have. Can anyone give/point me at guidance on how to get the most from the TS2500 slider and how/if the operations that can be done on a those saws can be done on the TS (Fritz and Franz jig, rough board straight edging, etc, etc)

Apologies for the long post and multitude of questions but I have far more of those than I do experience. Many thanks I advance.

 

[Trevanion]

Before you go and start messing with things there's one thing to get out of the way:

Is your saw already set up correctly? You really don't want to make your saw worse by playing around with it trying to make it better if it's already fine. Have you checked it with any sort of accurate measuring equipment?

I don't own one of these saws (Mine is an old Scheppach TKU) but I would guess there are a few bolts that hold the motor and blade assembly onto the table that you could slacken to adjust it. I imagine the sliding table could be adjusted by shimming the mounting points for it.

Bearings tend to bear their numbers/letters on them on the outer ring, You would be looking for something that looks like 6203RS or 635ZZ (RS means rubber sealed bearing and ZZ means metal shielded).

 

[Carver]

Thanks for the response.

You are quite right. I’ve done a 4 cut test and it doesn’t appear to be coming square. I will do 5 cut test before fiddling with anything.

Good call on the shims. Ta. I’ve checked and there are some behind the sliding table brackets. Re the blade however there doesn’t appear to be anyway to access mounting bolts from the top. Hope I don’t have to get to them from underneath....

 

[Carver]

I got the following off the bearings

COM C 00008

Haven’t managed to relate this to a spec or manufacturer yet.

 

[Trevanion]

I got the following off the bearings

COM C 00008

Haven’t managed to relate this to a spec or manufacturer yet.

Have you looked at both sides of the bearing or just the one? Manufacturers can put random numbers on which don't mean anything to anyone except themselves.

 

[Carver]

Ah. No. I’ll check them all and see if there’s different markings and take off for a look if not. Thanks.

 

[Ttrees]

On the Startrite 275 I have, you adjust the table to be in line with the blade, checking using a combination square referencing off the table slot and picking a tooth to rub against.
A good idea would be to make sure the machine is level, as the sliding extension could cause issues if not.
Tom

 

[Carver]

Interesting. Will check that out. Thanks.

 

[WellsWood]

The bearings are 6000-2z like these there would be no harm (and probably a good idea) to use rubber sheilded ones instead i.e 6000-2rs.
The sliding table rail is adjusted in 3 axes using a combination of shims (supplied with the saw originally) between the mounting brackets and cabinet legs, and the 2 sets of screw adjusters built into the hangers attached to the rear of the rail. It's a painstaking task to get it just right, but worth it - mine is ridiculously accurate. A word of warning though - once you've got it spot on, don't move the saw around unnecesarily or there's a good chance you'll be starting over.

Can't comment on table adjustment I'm afraid, as mine is the earlier version with the alloy top and, I beleive, different mounting of the motor/trunnion. But if you have the sliding table, I can't see why you would bother trying to align the slots (unless you've been watching too many american made youtube videos). The mitre slots in my alloy version are absolutely hopeless - I've never needed, used, or missed them.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Table saw setup is not difficult, but there are several things to do and they should be done in the right order.

Set blade parallel to mitre slot. How you do this depends on your particular saw, either by adjusting the table on the frame or the trunnions under the table.
Set fence parallel to both.
Set blade vertical by adjusting stop. Adjust the 45 stop while you are at it.
Adjus the riving knife and guard.
Set sliding table parallel to the main saw, so that it slides easily with no play. The fence should clear the table by the thickness of a piece of paper.
Set ST fence square to travel.

HTH
Steve

 

[Carver]

Thanks for both those replies.

 

[Carver]

Wellswood

Great detail on the bearings. Cheers.

Wrt to not using the mitre slots how do you secure short/small pieces and use the slider?

 

[Carver]

PS I have indeed been watching too many US videos covering both use of the slots and the ‘large’ slider type saws. Messed me up man. Can’t find any with good guidance for the ‘small’ sliders like the TS 2500.

 

[WellsWood]

Wellswood

Great detail on the bearings. Cheers.

Wrt to not using the mitre slots how do you secure short/small pieces and use the slider?

Short answer is I don't - it's the wrong tool for that job. Down to about 150mm is Ok with care, after that I'll use the chopsaw or cut the small peice from a larger one, or cut by hand/bandsaw and square on a shooting board.

One thing I'm sure you know (but always worth repeating) is that you must never ever use the sliding table and the fence simultaniously - that's a recipe for disaster!

 

[Steve Maskery]

One thing I'm sure you know (but always worth repeating) is that you must never ever use the sliding table and the fence simultaniously - that's a recipe for disaster!

Ouch! Indeed it is.

 

[Carver]

Ah understood. Could one use a cross cut sled and the mitre slots for small stuff?

Thanks for the warning re the fence. That was something useful I picked up from the US vids.

 

[Ttrees]

Hello again
I might as well give you some links on tablesaw use, since you are looking for some.
The TS2500ci is still a tablesaw and not a slider, since the sliding table does not go as far as the blade....(IMO)
You might find yourself using the machine more frequently without the sliding table than you think.

The single best video I have watched is Kelly Mehler's master your table saw...
It is online somewhere, and was on youtube titled masteryourtablesaw, best part of an hour long.
It is worth finding the video, as it is a place to start as its the most comprehensive out there.
I'm sure their's some other folk who work safely, but most of their videos you have to pay for.
Some snippets of Kelly...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j48XK-eUiTs
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7d2vt


Now onto some youtubes
Presuming you have watched the... "pick a tooth" and set it up to your mitre slots approach.
Here's a quick demo of what I was on about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJPNlJPC6Bw


Ted Baldwin's a guy who has at least 2 videos on cutting very small parts on the tablesaw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knotpj60bsk

Bob Van Dyke has some jigs and such on a few videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGba2FX-rvc

Another video from Gwinnet woodworkers about safety and use
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07uHhrYKDLA

These videos linked might probably be the closest thing that I've found, to what would be considered safe practice by European standards.
Safe practice on tablesaw operation is still argued about to this day
Just like sharpening, but dare I say more dangerous

Read some of the threads here about differing opinions, some story's are frightening
Good luck

Tom

 

[Steve Maskery]

I've just watched Kelly's PW video.
Hmm.
I rate Kelly, I really do. I have his book and I've not seen a better one. Buy it. He is the most European American I've come across.
But.
I really, REALLY don't agree with him on the use of Splitters. We don't have splitters over here, and for a very good reason. They are nowhere near as good as a proper riving knife. I was pleased to see him install a RK and adjust it correctly. Most people don't. But a splitter, even though it is very easy to make and install, does not offer anywhere near as much protection as a proper riving knife. When the blade is low there are several inches of space between the blade and the splitter, and a lot can happen in those few inches. A properly adjusted RK should be 3-8mm from the blade, whatever the height. That matters.
There is simply a TS cultural difference between the US and us. We are better. By several fingers (or should that be by severed fingers?).
Kelly is a bit mid-Atlantic!

 

[Carver]

Ttrees. Wow. Thanks very much for taking the time to pass those on. I’ll get onto them tomorrow. I’ll start thinking of the TS2500CI as a table saw with benefits rather tham a full slider.

Steve. Will keep that in mind. Thanks.

 

[Carver]

Steve

Is it The Table Saw Book that you recommend?

Thanks