Scheppach Basa 1 bandsaw problem

[Rex deWolf]

Hi all
Bought this bandsaw on gumtree and generally well pleased with so far.

Went thru the complete setup step by step according to the manual which came with it. The existing blade was gummy as if it had been used for cutting wet timber and was covered in resin, so I replaced it with a new one, again following the manual step by step.
Mostly I've used it on rip cuts on timber up to 20mm thick with no problem but I suspect the blade runs slower than it should, but have no way of checking this.
Recently I tried to rip a 300mm length of 50 x 50 with the table tilted at 45 degrees and the blade ground to a halt after about 100 mm. It seems to me that there is too much resistance between the blade and workpiece or that the blade is not running fast enough. The blade bearings are set at 25 thou (approx. 0.5mm). The only thing that I can see wrong is that the blade does not sit centrally in the band guide, but I can see no way of adjusting this ( see close-up photo). Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Robbo3]

I have the same machine.
The blade not lining up with the slot is for operator protection. Notice how it lines up with the slot in the table. It is not a fault.
IME it's all to do with the blade especially in a low powered machine.
You replaced the blade but you didn't say what with. Again IME, Toolstation/Screwfix etc blades are very poor.
I use 1/4", 6TPI blades for nearly everything only putting a 3/8", 3 or 4 TPI blade if I need to do a lot of ripping.
My blades now come from Axminster (regretably) because I had a number of Tuffsaw blades break. I believe that the Axminster ones are thinner metal & they handle the stresses of going around the tight curve of a small bandsaw wheel better.
Also be wary of backing out of a cut as the blade will invariably come out of the bottom guides.
I also had to replace the motor capacitor after about 14 months.

 

[Bingy man]

I’m no expert on bandsaws but the adjustment maybe with the table set up. As you’re cutting at 45 degrees then is the blade binding anywhere. Is your blade over tensioned. Plenty of more experienced members on this forum so it will help you get the correct advice if you mention what type of wood you’re cutting-hardwood or softwood etc and what species. Also 50 m at 45 deg is possibly reaching the upper limits of your saw so blade choice is possibly an issue .

 

[Ttrees]

Are the guides mounted on the guard, or the guard mounted to a post?
Hard to get an idea without properly seeing, but it appears to be the former to me.

Are you saying it isn't parallel with blade when the post is raised or lowered?

Can you scoot the carriage of the top wheel should it appear off using plumbline/laser/level
If not, can the post be shimmed with a washer to be parallel.

The belt should be on the larger pulley if not already
Is there viberation without blade, if not, it might be a case of the belt being severely undertensioned, and tension accordingly if so,

not a good idea to have very tight though, especially without a good inspection
regarding alignment or other reasons like the belt fouling should it max out or whatever.

 

[Rex deWolf]

I have the same machine.
The blade not lining up with the slot is for operator protection. Notice how it lines up with the slot in the table. It is not a fault.
IME it's all to do with the blade especially in a low powered machine.
You replaced the blade but you didn't say what with. Again IME, Toolstation/Screwfix etc blades are very poor.
I use 1/4", 6TPI blades for nearly everything only putting a 3/8", 3 or 4 TPI blade if I need to do a lot of ripping.
My blades now come from Axminster (regretably) because I had a number of Tuffsaw blades break. I believe that the Axminster ones are thinner metal & they handle the stresses of going around the tight curve of a small bandsaw wheel better.
Also be wary of backing out of a cut as the blade will invariably come out of the bottom guides.
I also had to replace the motor capacitor after about 14 months.

Thanks for the detailed answer and I'm glad to hear from an owner or this machine.
Glad to hear that it's a design thing rather than something I have done wrong but I'm nearly certain that one of the photos in the manual shows the blade centred in this channel, but take your point about it lining up with the slot.
On blades, (see photos) the one I fitted came from Woodford, it's about 12mm wide and 12 or 15 tpi - it is not a cheap blade. Seemed like a good choice at the time but I will invest in a narrower and thinner one anyway.
Can you tell me more about the capacitor, it is listed as one of the possible causes of the motor running slower. Why did you have to buy it? What was wrong with the machine that made you decide you needed it? Where did you get it from and how difficult or otherwise was it to fit?
Sorry for all the questions - hope you don't mind

 

[Rex deWolf]

I’m no expert on bandsaws but the adjustment maybe with the table set up. As you’re cutting at 45 degrees then is the blade binding anywhere. Is your blade over tensioned. Plenty of more experienced members on this forum so it will help you get the correct advice if you mention what type of wood you’re cutting-hardwood or softwood etc and what species. Also 50 m at 45 deg is possibly reaching the upper limits of your saw so blade choice is possibly an issue .

Thank you for your help.
I do have the tension fairly taut, was told that you should be able to pluck it like a guitar string and "get a note" from it. Also I think it need to be well tensioned to do intricate cuts. Re the 45 degree cut, the length of the cut is still only about 65 mm and we'll within its capabilities. The work piece was only softwood. Thanks again

 

[Robbo3]

12-15 TPI is very fine. That's why it struggled to rip. The gullets can't remove the sawdust fast enough.

These are a few extras I made. Top door knob, wedge to hold the door open & a long allen key to clear the table especially when adjusting the bottom guides. They are all attached to the column with magnets.

The capacitor came from Ebay, approx £6. Check under the cover on the motor & match the connector type. Some are threaded for ring terminals & some use spade terminals. Sorry I don't remember which but it makes life easier to swap like for like.
One day it wouldn't start but would run with a little help. Changed the capacitor & it's been fine since.
Capacitor CBB60 - 6 µf
Size 56 x 35mm Ø
Max: 70 x 35mm Ø

I also added a sewing machine light.
Light as bought (Ebay £7ish) with magnetic base & switch.

Cut off the plug, drilled a hole in the top of the column & wired it directly to the switch.
Photo also shows the magnets for holding the knob & allen key.

 

[Rex deWolf]

You have gone to a lot of bother to answer my questions - really appreciate that. I'll get a new capacitor and a few blades too. Many thanks

 

[Spectric]

Buy decent blades of the right type for the work you are doing, you cannot just fit a blade and think of it as general purpose mores the pity. If in doubt give Ian at Tuffsaws a ring as the advice is great and you will get the right blade.

 

[Rex deWolf]

Buy decent blades of the right type for the work you are doing, you cannot just fit a blade and think of it as general purpose mores the pity. If in doubt give Ian at Tuffsaws a ring as the advice is great and you will get the right blade.

Thanks for the advise Roy. Sometimes I would be doing simple rip or crosscuts and occasionally something more curved, can't be bothered changing blades every time so I probably go for something around 6mm wide with 6-10 tpi. Does that sound like a good compromise?

 

[clogs]

for those interested the magnetic strips from Lidil are worth the few quid they cost...I use em everywhereto hold the tools, reg used drill bits n chuck keys.....
floating tools are a nightmare around machines...still have to cut the wires that used to hold the chuck key and the chuck removal wedge....lol....

 

[Spectric]

The problem I had with not changing blades, yes being lazy was that trying to get a straight cut through 90mm of redwood with the 6 tooth blade proved difficult, changing to my 3 tooth blade and it was easy. I think that the finish of the cut is such that you then need to run it through your thicknesser to get a decent final size and finish. With a 10 - 14 vari I can get decent cuts on 18mm ply . The rule I tend to follow is that ideally you always want at least three teeth in the material being cut but no more than ten.

 

[Spectric]

Mr Clogs fancy showing a picture of your pillar drill with the chuck key left in the chuck !

 

[Ttrees]

Mr Clogs fancy showing a picture of your pillar drill with the chuck key left in the chuck !

Perhaps Clogs was merely suggesting that the chuck key should be used the proper way, and tightened with the left hand.