Record BS250 or Charnwood B250
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I picked up a BS250 second hand from a classical guitar luthier earlier this year and, after some TLC and new blades, I have it running nicely for my needs (mostly softwoods so far, no re-sawing or cutting laminates yet). They're quite heavy - I wouldn't consider it portable. (nor the Charnwood, for that matter).
The Charnwood fence looks better than the BS250 one, in my humble opinion, but I haven't used one first hand.
Second hand you can find BS250's for well under £200.
The Charnwood fence looks better than the BS250 one, in my humble opinion, but I haven't used one first hand.
Second hand you can find BS250's for well under £200.
I meant to update this a couple of weeks earlier. I ended up getting the record BS250, it's, eaht can go wrong? A very nice machine for the price, only thing I can grumble about is the mitre fence (or the table depending how you look at it), I am struggling to get this accurate to the blade. However I doubt I'll ever need it, at least on this saw.
I even resawed some 80mm pine using a blades from tuff saws, did the job but not worth the effort, ended up finishing on my table saw (at the expense or a few lengths of wood due to the extra kerf).
For the size, weight this is a really nice machine. Supplied blade was good but ordered tuff saw blades at the saw time so not really tried it. Blade changing is simple enough though!
I even resawed some 80mm pine using a blades from tuff saws, did the job but not worth the effort, ended up finishing on my table saw (at the expense or a few lengths of wood due to the extra kerf).
For the size, weight this is a really nice machine. Supplied blade was good but ordered tuff saw blades at the saw time so not really tried it. Blade changing is simple enough though!
Alexam
Bandsaw Boxmaker
You may improve the running of the bandsaw with the following tips.
THE BEST FROM A BANDSAW 'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well, but if you want to get the best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.
Also, this test to ensure correct tightening of the blade - Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8zZuDosSy0
Alex
THE BEST FROM A BANDSAW 'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well, but if you want to get the best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.
Also, this test to ensure correct tightening of the blade - Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8zZuDosSy0
Alex
I think you will find aftersales support and product knowledge is better from Record. Both machines are made in China but I think their quality control is better, resale value should also be considered when buying: you may want to upgrade or sell it n the future. Record Power is a more established bandsaw supplier.
John15
Established Member
I have the BSS250. It's a great little machine but obviously only suitable for small cuts. Also I find it necessary to check the fence and mitre fairly frequenty.
John
John
Sorry, logged on here for the first time in ages and thought I should do an update. The BS250 is still going strong and working well, I'm using various tuff saw blades with it. For free hand stuff it is great for the capacity it takes, I do find changing blades is a right pain, adjust the tension a tiny bit when the tracking is spot on and the blade goes flying off. The table seem to move a lot when not using it as well, as John15 mentions you need to check everything before use.
Biggest gripe is that the doors are quite loose which affects the dust extraction, I have to often open the bottom door and manually push the build up sawdust so it gets sucked up but that's only after a hour of continuous use. You also need to readjust the bearings if you drop the cutting depth, that seems to shift the blade inwards as you go to a shallower cut, if you go from a 70 cut to a 10mm cut the difference has the blade running the bearing at a furious pace and you can see the blade bending out over the bearing a mm or two.
For the price I can't fault it though if you are prepared to check and readjust things and very light weight. Just resawn a load of beech and walnut at 60mm and then some band with the same wood laminated together on it today without problems.
Biggest gripe is that the doors are quite loose which affects the dust extraction, I have to often open the bottom door and manually push the build up sawdust so it gets sucked up but that's only after a hour of continuous use. You also need to readjust the bearings if you drop the cutting depth, that seems to shift the blade inwards as you go to a shallower cut, if you go from a 70 cut to a 10mm cut the difference has the blade running the bearing at a furious pace and you can see the blade bending out over the bearing a mm or two.
For the price I can't fault it though if you are prepared to check and readjust things and very light weight. Just resawn a load of beech and walnut at 60mm and then some band with the same wood laminated together on it today without problems.
MikeJhn":o70cwwxd said:
Not sure what mine does but I'm pretty sure it is not as big by a bit. The saw is right next to my extractor and is the first outlet from the 4 inch pipe I have running around the workshop and works a treat. The gap is over a cm, you can feel the air rushing in, maybe I should try bending the inside of the handle or clamp it closed.
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