Problems sharpening gouge - demotivated

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skeetoids

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Hi Folks,

I have had fairly consistant problems with my bowl gouge sharpening but have always been able to get a good edge in the end. However, after having completed my January piece for the competition I new I needed to sharpen my gouge again but was not looking forward to it.

The problem I am having is that the right wing of my gouge always seems to come out higher than the left, despite me starting my sharpening from the left and the right at the same point. Also, the cutting edge of the gouge is never one clean edge and has a lot of little chips/teeth along it at various points. I do manage to get one continuous bevel though.

I had a chat with another turner who suggested it may be my grinding stone is causing the problem and should try the white one from Axi. This is smoother and causes less heat.

I will get one of these as I also feel my grinding stone is too tough, it is one of the grey ones, 60 grit and really tears into the gouge.

I am using the Sorby deluxe universal sharpening jig with the fingernail profiler. I feel comfortable using this but only recently have been getting these problems. I tried redressing my grinding wheel but this hasn't made any difference.

I have read lots of articles and watch lots of vids and feel that I am aware of how to sharpen properly but can anyone think of any other issues that may be plauging my sharpening?

I would appreciate help if possible as I know that the next time I go to the workshop I won't turn anything until I get my gouge sorted, this is a little demotivating as I still have as much enthusiasm for turning as ever but it's a little depressing about not being able to get my gouge right. :(

Cheers,

Lee.
 
As you're using the jig I'm not sure why you're getting the uneven-ness on the wings unless it's not aligned properly.

As for the grey wheels - remove them and process with a sledgehammer.
Have a look at the Toolpost for better (IMHO) alternatives to the Axminster white wheels.
I've got the red wheels, but for the price difference I'd go for the blue If I needed new wheels now.
 
Hi Lee,

A 60 grit grey stone is entirely unsuitable for sharpening turning chisels.

Have a look at the following information on PETER CHILDS website.

It should enable you to select a suitable wheel.
 
The jog does not stop uneaven pressure or time spend which will generate uneven profiles - learning the jig is important - look at the time you spend, your stance (does it cause a difference in "weight" on the tool or make it harder to apply the tool to the wheel on one side compared to the other) and also what you start with (obviously if you get it absolutly spot on an remove the same amount alround if you start uneven you're still going to be so!).

One thing I found when I had the saem sort of thing was I ended up turning the gouge upside down and removing the edge entirely to get the right "shape" when viewed from the top and then grinding till the bevel intercepted that line. That seems to cure the fact that my edges were super thing and very inclined to break and become ragged.

HTH

Miles
 
Lee don't get downhearted about it! A white wheel will make a good bit of diference, another tip is to not press on the tool when sharpening as this not only will lead to the uneven edge you refer to but also grind away your tools at an alarming rate! I sharpen the wings first and then just even up the tip. When you've got a good profile on it its just a case of gently taking off the tiniest grinding to keep the edge keen, if its changing the shape of the wings each time you're putting too much force on the tip. If you've left a high spot its easy to just go over that little spot again to even it up.

HTH

JT
 
miles_hot":mclv1hwq said:
One thing I found when I had the saem sort of thing was I ended up turning the gouge upside down and removing the edge entirely to get the right "shape" when viewed from the top and then grinding till the bevel intercepted that line.
Glenn Lucas does that as well
 
Hi Folks,

Thank you for all your replies, most helpful and encouraging.

Miles, I have also tried turning it upside down and grinding it down a bit to get the wings even and then starting again.

TBH, from what you've all said I think it is definately a combination of my aggresive grinding wheel, a heavy hand and a lack of experience.

I will invest in a white wheel initially, due to expense, and give that a try with a lighter touch. Plus I will look at my whole jig set up again and make sure it is all true.

Many thanks,

Lee.
 
One other thing to think about lee: at the bash I saw mark using a credit card diamond stone to just gently touch up the edge on his tool so that ne didn't even use the grinder - thus when (not if) you get your profile you could think about this to further protect it. I'm going to give this a go when I'm next in the garage.
Miles
 
Hi,

Yes, the grinder is attached to the worktop and is very stable.

I have ordered the white wheel from Axi so I'll fit that and give it another go.

Will let you know how I get on.

Cheers folks,

Lee.
 
Hi Lee.
I wish i lived closer i would pop around and help.
Once you have established the profile you want keep a record of the settings for repeatability.
Once you have established the profile you are happy with, the very lightest touch is all it takes to keep your edge sharp.
And you will only need about two very light passes on the stone.

Regards George
 
Hi,

Ta for the further advice G.

I was thinking, what's the best way to bring my gouge back into shape when I get the new wheel?

Should I sharpen as normal until the wings and edge are good or turn it upside down to level the wings and then go for it?

Cheers,

Lee.
 
Thanks G, thought this would be the best thing to do.

Hopefully I'll get it right before I wear it down the ferrule!!!

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Once I have got the angle on the gouge I use a bigger version of these.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-diamond-mini-stone-sets-prod21718/

Then I only go back to the grinder every now and then. One or two min with these brings the chisel back to a nice sharp edge and saves you spraying your prize chisels around the room.

The ones on the link are not really big enough bigger ones are available but I am not sure where from, mine were a present (cheers Steve Mc)

Just for your info

Rich
 
I wouldnt worry too much about uneven wings on the gouge unless one starts to get in the way. Mine are never the same and it makes no difference - to my bowls. I see you have ordered new wheels so this bit of advice is probably no good now but your grey wheels are also likely to be far too narrow. Wider wheels will help you if only to give more surface to wear away before you need to true the wheel. When sharpening with the jig you may find it helpful to try to keep the nose of the gouge on the same place on the wheel rather than moving all over the place as the jig turns. That certainly helps with free hand sharpening. As others have said you are just sharpening your tool so it only requires a light touch up - you are not reshaping you tool (or rather you are!! at the moment).

I use ceramic slips to whet the tool if needed.

Edit: should have said. If at all possible save up and buy a slow grinder. Expensive but much kinder to tools and they give you time to think as you grind. I have one and it was the answer to many a silly grinding.
 
Dodge mentioned to men when I was down at his workshop he got a <something> Tiger grinder/sharpening system for around £100 and reckons it does a good job. I would suggest you drop him a PM to see if it is suitable for what you want before you buy it though.
 
Hi Folks,

Despite not receiving my wheel from Axminster yet I thought I'd give my gouge another go.

I'm happy to state that I managed to get it right!

The secret was to take it easy and gentle. One continious bevel, matching wings and a damn sharp edge.

Can't wait to get my new wheel, now I'm confident I'm sure I'll get it razor sharp.

Thank you once again for all the very helpful advice.

Cheers,

Lee.
 
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