johnnyb
Established Member
I do feel the angle at the cutting edge is getting steep(zoom in and check the reflections) probably not an issue now but only after a few visits to the buffer.
Bevel angle for gouge
- Thread starter steve355
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Interesting, I am finding the angle I need to apply the gouge to the wood to cut is very high. I know it’s ground at exactly 25 deg. Perhaps I am holding it at too high an angle when sharpening and taking off the edge. I will try again tomorrow.
I am getting a lovely burnished cut though.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Well that's good progress.
You need to enter the cut at a fairly high angle, but if you think it's too high then take 2º off the bevel.
If the bevel becomes too shallow, the edge rolls over.
Gouges don't need secondary bevels, as this again increases the angle of the cutting edge. Although you can sharpen for softwood at 20º and steepen the tip a little when cutting hardwoods if you want.
You need to enter the cut at a fairly high angle, but if you think it's too high then take 2º off the bevel.
If the bevel becomes too shallow, the edge rolls over.
Gouges don't need secondary bevels, as this again increases the angle of the cutting edge. Although you can sharpen for softwood at 20º and steepen the tip a little when cutting hardwoods if you want.
pgrbff
Established Member
There are some very expensive jigs for the Tormek that will get you very close. One of the reasons I decided to stay away from turning for the moment, all those strangely shaped chisels.
pgrbff
Established Member
I asked recently the difference between incannel and outcannel but I still don't really understand when you would use one over the other.
Stavros Gakos, a planemaker on YouTube seems to use incannel when carving his infills.
Stavros Gakos, a planemaker on YouTube seems to use incannel when carving his infills.
Austin Branson
Established Member
I used in-cannel when making my rocking chairs. I am nowhere near being an expert, i just found them better. I obviously need some tuition.
As far as I can tell in-cannel are for paring, and if you want to gouge out a hollow of any sort with them they won’t work for that.
I had another go with mine today and it’s way better than it was. Not quite professional perfection yet, but maybe 70% of the way there.
It’s great to have the resource of this forum for advice, YouTube has lots of beginner stuff, lots of what to buy videos, but little serious detail. I guess in the past people would have apprenticeships to learn the ropes.
I had another go with mine today and it’s way better than it was. Not quite professional perfection yet, but maybe 70% of the way there.
It’s great to have the resource of this forum for advice, YouTube has lots of beginner stuff, lots of what to buy videos, but little serious detail. I guess in the past people would have apprenticeships to learn the ropes.
pgrbff
Established Member
If you look long and hard enough there is some more advanced help too. It just takes a while to find it.
pgrbff
Established Member
This YouTube video might help with sharpening.
Back on practicing gouge cuts today, I feel I’m going on a bit about some of these moulding plane details but I really don’t have anyone to ask except the experts around here. I’m now trying to replicate the “wide” gouge cuts. See below, a professionally done gouge cut and my sorry attempt.
The method seems to be, to draw a straight line across the cove from one side of the vertical chamfer to the corner. And draw an arc on the end of the plane from the corner to the appropriate spot near the outer edge of the vertical chamfer. Then take out the wood between the lines with a gouge, accurately, in one cut (or at least, one finishing cut).
Which direction does one come from? 1) “Across” the gouge cut, with a very wide and correctly sized gouge? Or 2) from the corner inwards, trying to follow both lines? (Which is what been trying to do)
The method seems to be, to draw a straight line across the cove from one side of the vertical chamfer to the corner. And draw an arc on the end of the plane from the corner to the appropriate spot near the outer edge of the vertical chamfer. Then take out the wood between the lines with a gouge, accurately, in one cut (or at least, one finishing cut).
Which direction does one come from? 1) “Across” the gouge cut, with a very wide and correctly sized gouge? Or 2) from the corner inwards, trying to follow both lines? (Which is what been trying to do)
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
First off, you need a gouge of a suitable size for the cut required.
So get a larger gouge.
So get a larger gouge.
Hi Adam,
So are you saying that the cut should be approached from the “long side” of the cut then? Would the gouge need to exactly match the width and sweep of the cut? I need to work out which gouge(s) to get.
If so, for a set of planes, there’s a lot of gouges to get….
mouldy plane
Established Member
Attachments
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
A small selection of gouges would cover it. I doubt that you would need a separate gouge for each size of plane.
And cut downhill, so yes approach from the heel along the length and not from the toe of the plane.
Steve that’s some very impressive work, the kind of level I hope I can get to one day
I’m fine now with the smaller gouge cuts, although I’ve converted my one in-cannel to out-cannel, but it seems to be producing quite good results. It’s the longer cuts I’m trying to work out how to do. As per the low numbered 18th century planes.
But basically we are talking about a gouge as long or longer than the length of the cut I suppose.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Not really as you can lengthen the sweep by rotating the gouge whilst progressing diagonally through the cut.
With practice a 10mm gouge will easily produce a finished 40mm curve, but the gouge needs to be quite shallow and very sharp.
Another way is just to match the sweep and size of the gouge to the cut you want to produce and just knock it off with a mallet, but that requires numerous gouges all sized to the cut you want to make.
With practice a 10mm gouge will easily produce a finished 40mm curve, but the gouge needs to be quite shallow and very sharp.
Another way is just to match the sweep and size of the gouge to the cut you want to produce and just knock it off with a mallet, but that requires numerous gouges all sized to the cut you want to make.
A complication with this cut (for me) is one end is square. I’ve practiced lots of lovely sweeping cuts, dead easy, but this has a square end and limited approach angles due to the grip of the plane.
i know I’m over thinking this but I need to learn somehow. There is limited info on YouTube… lots on which gouge does what, and how to sharpen a gouge and lots on relief carving, but I can’t seem to find much on general gouge skills.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
You just need to do some research trials then. There's probably nothing on youtube because no one does it, as it's an obscure activity to say the least.
To be honest, you have landed yourself at the pointy end of known knowns and unknown knowns, but you have at least identified one of the known unknowns.
If you see what I mean.
To be honest, you have landed yourself at the pointy end of known knowns and unknown knowns, but you have at least identified one of the known unknowns.
If you see what I mean.
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