Bevel angle for gouge

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

steve355

Established Member
Joined
5 Oct 2020
Messages
480
Reaction score
519
Location
Herts
Evening

These planes I’m making are starting to work really well, but I’m still not there with recreating some of the finer details. I realised my gouges (which I have very little experience with) may be sharpened incorrectly. Or at least I want to eliminate that as a reason for messing it up all the time.

So, to create a gouge cut like the one in the picture below, I presume I need an out cannel gouge? What angle should I grind the primary bevel?

Thanks

Steve

IMG_0818.jpeg
 
Really it's the same as a chisel. But these need to be really sharp high quality tools to make a cut that shines like that. Practice twisting whilst cutting.
 
Really it's the same as a chisel. But these need to be really sharp high quality tools to make a cut that shines like that. Practice twisting whilst cutting.
Ok, thanks Johnny.

The reason I asked is that I read somewhere (on a carving website) that they should be sharpened at 10 deg so a 25 deg scoop is easy.
 
You want about 27º.....In reality between 25º-30º and it needs to be razor sharp with a polished bevel.

The bevel burnishes the cut, which makes it shiny.
 
I find sharpening a gouge properly is quite a long winded process tbh. And I've not found any shortcuts that help other than very careful grinding on a white wheel. A tormek may work for the initial work but would groove the wheel. The real work starts after you make sure the end is flat by blunting on a flat stone. Really from that point your working to eliminate those flats without taking to much off using a rolling action concentrating solely on the bigger flats.(a washita is fairly fast here) once those flats disappear keep going as there still there rolling the whole edge. Then use a arkansas slip inside for the wire edge. Alternate a bit. Finally strop on a leather and a leather with a dowel on the inside. Then check for scratches on an endgrain cut. Scratches? then repeat.
 
At this point you can't see defects on the edge only on the end grain cut. I know Adam abhors an inside bevel but it helps if the any pits on the cañnel.
 
As you’ll inky be using it for a pretty specific task I’d experiment with angles to find the one that performs how you want it to. I don’t know the angles on my most used gouges - but I know they’re about as good as I can get for the job I use them for.

Sharpening them is a bit more painful than straight chisels but not too bad. I found a felt wheel, loaded with compound, the best way to polish and quickly retouch the bevel. Just make sure it’s spinning away from the edge
 
MDF wheel with Autosol or similar. Slow speed. The bevel on the flat, the inside on the rounded edge of the wheel. Or vice versa for in-cannel gouge. Spinning away from the edge as Tom says.
It's very fast.
 
Well that’s getting closer, 25 deg bevel from my pro edge and a lot of stropping. There’s even a slight “shine” on the gouge cut.

IMG_4469.jpeg
 
Last edited:
A saw?! 🥺

Ok I will polish it carefully. I can use my polishing wheel to get a perfect finish but won’t that just dub it over?
 
Back
Top