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mtr1

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I am getting a new set of chisels soon, and am interested in three makers at the moment, Lie-Nielsen, Ashley Iles, and narex.
I will be using these everyday for my work as a cabinet maker, I am using the marples split proof jobbies, and various other chisels that I have picked up from boot fairs over the years. Which of course are fine, I just fancy a set that matches :oops: I know that sounds bad, but as I get older my retentiveness is starting to kick in, and everything in order and everything in its place is fast becoming my mantra(don't even talk about festool). Anyhow I first fancy'd the Nielsen's as they come flat(ish) and polished more importantly(if I'm paying a fair bit I don't want to do this really), and as I do a lot of reflective paring, they appealed a lot. However I do have some Ashley Iles carving gouges, which are just great. So am considering these also, however because I do a lot of reflective paring(I was taught by someone 50yrs older than Jacob so he must of been 150) my concern with these and also the narex's is the concavity of the back, now I know this has no bearing on how accurate these chisels are, but if I can't get the bottom 1.5" polished to a mirrored shine it will effect the way I work. So do I go for the American, the English, or the European??? Are there other alternatives? Oh lets not mention the Japanese jobs, how anyone can work with these is beyond me(and yes I have). TIA
 
Hi Mark,

you can go for the very expensive ones but I have been using Kirschen chisels for years now and I have always found them excellent - They sharpen well and hold a very keen edge which lasts.

Axminster sell them - They get my vote

Rog
 
Hi Mark,

I've just done a couple of videos for Fromey in the hand tools section who had a similar question about hollow ground backs.

http://www.youtube.com/user/workshopheaven#p/u/6/nhO08NVbsPw

http://www.youtube.com/user/workshopheaven#p/u/6/CBZ8446KqkM

As you can see it doesn't take long, the coarse abrasive will reduce the concavity very rapidly. Once you have a scratch pattern over the area you want, the the steps to refine the pattern to a polish don't take long at all. The other advantage that both of these have is relatively thin blades which give better access and moves the centre of gravity closer to the handle. This gives you better control when paring and makes the chisels more top heavy when chopping so it's easier to feel the chisel balance between your fingertips when it's vertical.
 
Thanks Rog, I had forgotten about the Kirschen chisels, and hadn't considered them. I had a look on the Axi website at them, and didn't like the look of the handle. What are they like in use? comfortable? At the moment my favourite chisels are two boxwood handled marples(don't think these can be bought any more) a 1/2", and a 1 1/4", which are the most comfortable to use. I would prefer this type of handle, which is why I'm leaning towards the Ashley Iles.

Thanks Matthew, I did take a look at the videos, and it looked to me(at least on the narex) that it would take quite a while to get these chisels where I would want the backs. You only got the first 1/4"/1/2" done, and that isn't enough for how I work, but correct me if I'm wrong.

I would still like to hear from members who own perhaps the Lie-Nielsen's, and Ashley Iles.
 
I think it'll probably boil down to a matter of ergonomics - if you could handle the various options you'd make up your mind in a heartbeat. Personally I like the feel and balance of the L-Ns, but if you like your boxwood handled Marples then chances are you might find them a little on the small side. Have a feeling you should probably go with your leaning towards the AIs. Although boxwood handled Marples aren't exactly rare - you could probably put together what you needed with a little patience, if you really like them.
 
mtr1":qbwiwnsm said:
... as I do a lot of reflective paring

That's a new one on me. Could you please tell me what "reflective paring" is? I think I can guess, but unfounded assumptions often make for difficult conversations.

BugBear
 
Alf beat me to it. I was going to suggest buying just one of each make and seeing how they felt in use..particularly how the handle felt in your hand and how the balance felt. Then when you'd made your decision, sell the others on this site. Or send one to Alf and one to me :wink:
 
Mark, we do very similar work as you know. I got a set of the Ashley Isles last year (from workshop heaven) and have been delighted with them. The steel is excellent and they have lovely fine edges for dovetailing.
The Kirchen ones are quite thick at the edges from what i remember.
One of the handles on my Ashley isles has got a crack in though (not through hammering!) so they aint perfect.
 
Why not have a day out to classic hand tools where you could (presumably) have a look and feel of a number of different makes - LN, Henry Taylor, Robert Sorby, Blue Spruce - although not Ashley Isles. Matthew (workshop heaven) did a pass around of the MKII AI bevel edged chisels and I had one for a few days - it was a marked improvement on my older AI chisel and I'd be happy to own a set - as Matty says, the edges are very fine and the different lengths seemed to work well.

Steve
 
Mattty":1daapo3t said:
Mark, we do very similar work as you know. I got a set of the Ashley Isles last year (from workshop heaven) and have been delighted with them. The steel is excellent and they have lovely fine edges for dovetailing.
The Kirchen ones are quite thick at the edges from what i remember.
One of the handles on my Ashley isles has got a crack in though (not through hammering!) so they aint perfect.

Hi Matty,

If you pop it in the post I'll change the handle for you.
 
bugbear":2urbkiz7 said:
mtr1":2urbkiz7 said:
... as I do a lot of reflective paring

That's a new one on me. Could you please tell me what "reflective paring" is? I think I can guess, but unfounded assumptions often make for difficult conversations.

BugBear

It's for things like small mouldings, inlays, banding's, parquetry, dovetailing, in fact there are loads of applications, and not just chisels. I also use my saw's in the same way, if I can't be pineappled to walk to the choppy/sawbench of course.
Its basically using the reflection of the workpiece in the chisel/saw to make 90/45 degree cuts, you do have to have a good eye for those angles, but with practice it's a doddle.
 
Thanks for all your response's guy's and gal, I think I will give the AI's a go. Alf's point about the LN's handles being small was a good one as I have hands the size of dinner plates, and don't want to feel like a giant. Also the slimline profile of AI's is great too. Thanks

PS. just ordered the Ashley Iles :D
 
mtr1":1ao6f952 said:
I had forgotten about the Kirschen chisels, and hadn't considered them. I had a look on the Axi website at them, and didn't like the look of the handle. What are they like in use? comfortable?

Sorry not to have replied sooner but personally I find them very comfortable in use and they fit the hand well - But obvioulsy everyone has their own preference.

Rog
 
Thank's for the link Brian, the way Matthew showed how to do them differed greatly however, would your way not make the concave back more exaggerated? I ask, as your way/my way will be how I do it, unless I hear a good reason not too?
 
mtr1":2t2ir5ij said:
Thank's for the link Brian, the way Matthew showed how to do them differed greatly however, would your way not make the concave back more exaggerated? I ask, as your way/my way will be how I do it, unless I hear a good reason not too?

While your spending money, get a worksharp jobbie. You'll never look back. You'll be able to mirror pare to your hearts content too.
 
matthewwh":3hsv5qk0 said:
Mattty":3hsv5qk0 said:
Mark, we do very similar work as you know. I got a set of the Ashley Isles last year (from workshop heaven) and have been delighted with them. The steel is excellent and they have lovely fine edges for dovetailing.
The Kirchen ones are quite thick at the edges from what i remember.
One of the handles on my Ashley isles has got a crack in though (not through hammering!) so they aint perfect.

Hi Matty,

If you pop it in the post I'll change the handle for you.

Thanks Matthew. I'll send it next week.

On the subject of the Ash. Illes, my only other gripe with them was the stickers on them. They are a pita!
 
mtr1":t0clhiyn said:
Thank's for the link Brian, the way Matthew showed how to do them differed greatly however, would your way not make the concave back more exaggerated? I ask, as your way/my way will be how I do it, unless I hear a good reason not too?

I don't think so. The concave is so small the 40mm I am working on is effectively flat. I'm not really doing anything different to sharpening anything else and it works fine. I do like the quality of the steel because you can feel it cutting while honing and it takes and keeps a really keen edge. I don't know what Matthew recommends but if you work on more of the back you are taking the concave out. BTW the bubinga handles are superb, especially now the smaller widths use a smaller handle.

One small gripe the guy on the linisher or whatever they use to put the concave in the back had a tendency to lift his outboard hand at the tip causing the last 2mm of the back of the blade to be curved over slightly. This stopped me getting the polish right to the edge which is of course a problem so I've just ground off a mm or so rather than hone all day and maybe spoil the back.

All in all an excellent set of chisels - you won't be disappointed.
 
Am I the only one that uses and likes the Bahco 1031 range? They might have composite handles like the Marples but I find they balance well, sharpen well, come in 15 sizes and a full set is around £250 (£200 if your lucky with offers on from Mathew).

It's a law of diminishing returns. You'll pay double that for less chisels at the best of lines and probably only gain 5% performance etc. take operator function into account and I would say that unless your a time served experienced cabinet maker you won't get any benefit from the extra with the others in reality in your home workshop.

Peter
 
mtr1":tjpdqp08 said:
Its basically using the reflection of the workpiece in the chisel/saw to make 90/45 degree cuts, .

Thought that might be it. Well known technique, especially for making 90 degree crosscuts with a saw, where one merely has to "judge" a straight line!

But I've never heard the technqiue given a particular name. Is it your coinage?

BugBear
 
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