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Mattty":mxf7r79o said:
On the subject of the Ash. Iles, my only other gripe with them was the stickers on them. They are a pita!

You're not alone, so we fixed it last november.

I'll pop a bit of orange oil in your parcel, if you peel off the sticker it will shift any remaining residue in a jiffy without harming the underlying surface.

I use the mirror technique too but find 3/4 of an inch or so adequate to begin with, the shiny bit will tend to creep back up the blade over time.

If you use narrower strips of film near to the edge and work across them, or work across the width of a waterstone you can polish around the inside of the concavity and get a bigger shiny bit in less time. Using the technique in the video you are reducing the concavity slightly without the risk of eliminating it completely. A bit of both may be the best bet?
 
mtr1":137wx64y said:
... lets not mention the Japanese jobs, how anyone can work with these is beyond me(and yes I have). TIA
Without opening a whole kettle of worms on the various issues of Jap vs western style chisels, like you I have both and use both. I'd agree that the hooped variety are a pain to use for hand paring simply because of the hoop, which gouges into the palm of your hand :twisted: However, I wonder if you've tried the Jap paring chisels with the long unhooped handles, which are specifically designed for paring? I have a set from Matthew which are just superb. The steel has been hardened to RC68 (which is insane and much harder that any western chisel) with the result that they will take and hold an edge that has to be felt to be believed. I also use some of the AI dovetail chisels with the curve backs which aren't bad but for really fine, delicate work the jap parers are simply light years ahead - Rob
 
bugbear":3qik97o9 said:
mtr1":3qik97o9 said:
Its basically using the reflection of the workpiece in the chisel/saw to make 90/45 degree cuts, .

Thought that might be it. Well known technique, especially for making 90 degree crosscuts with a saw, where one merely has to "judge" a straight line!

But I've never heard the technqiue given a particular name. Is it your coinage?

BugBear

That's what I've always called it, I suspect it's just what my foreman called it, he was very posh!

Matthew, thank's for that, will I be seeing them before crimbo :p

woodbloke":3qik97o9 said:
mtr1":3qik97o9 said:
... lets not mention the Japanese jobs, how anyone can work with these is beyond me(and yes I have). TIA
Without opening a whole kettle of worms on the various issues of Jap vs western style chisels, like you I have both and use both. I'd agree that the hooped variety are a pain to use for hand paring simply because of the hoop, which gouges into the palm of your hand :twisted: However, I wonder if you've tried the Jap paring chisels with the long unhooped handles, which are specifically designed for paring? I have a set from Matthew which are just superb. The steel has been hardened to RC68 (which is insane and much harder that any western chisel) with the result that they will take and hold an edge that has to be felt to be believed. I also use some of the AI dovetail chisels with the curve backs which aren't bad but for really fine, delicate work the jap parers are simply light years ahead - Rob

Agree on the edge holding Rob, I suspect the one's I used where some of axi's first. I could never get on with the hollow backs tbh, I haven't tried the jap paring one's either, they do sound better than the hooped jobbies I had.
 
You should certainly have something to open on the day. There's a parcel somewhere between us and AI with the sizes we have run out of, so any that we were short of will be along a couple of days later.
 
mtr1":2j95j6fo said:
Agree on the edge holding Rob, I suspect the one's I used where some of axi's first. I could never get on with the hollow backs tbh, I haven't tried the jap paring one's either, they do sound better than the hooped jobbies I had.

If you were to contact Matthew and ask if he's got one that's prepared (and they do take some time to do the backs as the steel is just so hard) I'm sure that he'd be happy to let you have a go with one. I was staggered by how good they are but I also have a set of Mr Fujikawa's finest hooped chisels for general work at the bench and the edge they will take is equally as good - Rob
 
woodbloke":2mlg6baf said:
mtr1":2mlg6baf said:
Agree on the edge holding Rob, I suspect the one's I used where some of axi's first. I could never get on with the hollow backs tbh, I haven't tried the jap paring one's either, they do sound better than the hooped jobbies I had.

If you were to contact Matthew and ask if he's got one that's prepared (and they do take some time to do the backs as the steel is just so hard) I'm sure that he'd be happy to let you have a go with one. I was staggered by how good they are but I also have a set of Mr Fujikawa's finest hooped chisels for general work at the bench and the edge they will take is equally as good - Rob


I don't doubt it Rob, Its the blood y hollow backs I can't get on with.
 
The Ashley Iles chisel's arrived today(the ones that were in stock), I have to say I'm impressed, they didn't take long to flatten and take a fine edge. I haven't had a chance to use them yet, but I have some oak shelves to make this week so will put them to the test then. I didn't think I would like the small handles, but they feel spot on. Thanks to all, I'm very happy with my purchase. Just need a nice tool cabinet now :oops:
 
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