help with counter design

[Johnboy]

I have been asked to quote for a payment counter for a pub like the picture below. I intend to make it as 2 carcases from oak veneered MDF with solid oak tops. the back is open with adjustable shelves. I am not sure how to join the front vertical corners, not sure ho accurate I can cut mitres over this length (it is 1400mm max high x 1050mm long x 600mm deep). The only other way I can see is to lip the mdf with solid oak and use biscuits for butt joints but am not sure how this would look. Any suggestions or ideas??

TIA

John

 

[Paul Chapman]

Out of those two options, I would go with lipping it in solid oak and joining with biscuits. Given what it is and its location, I reckon it would come in for a fair bit of wear and tear, and mitred joints using veneered material just won't stand up to it - the edges will soon get chipped and look awful.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[jasonB]

I'm with paul, use solid lipping on all the edges otherwise they will be too prone to damage, if you get a good match it will hardly show. On the corners you could even use 19x19 square oak and biscuit in from both edges.

Jason

 

[mailee]

I agree with Jason. You could even lip the edges in 'L'shaped oak to cover the join, maybe a moulding. :idea:

 

[Alex]

I agree with the lipping, only why just small solid oak strip why not make feature on each corner. Something along the lines of a pillar maybe some fluting or just stopped 45deg edge with the veneer mdf let into the back. Jobs a goodin 8)

Alex

 

[Scrit]

My experience with PoS stands is that they are expected to take a battering in service. I, too will suggest solid wood lipping, but I'd suggest using something like a 10mm lipping with the edges chamfered of rounded over. That will give an attractive edge feature whilst at the same time breaking the edge to a softer profile. A softer profile carries less accidental injury risk and the surface finish will also last longer. I think that with an overhung (J-, L- or U-section) lipping there is always the chance of it getting caught and knocked off so I'd avoid that.

And the other two suggestions I'd make about structure is to make it so that the entire carcase is in the form of boxes with separate tops. That reduces the amount of weight you have to carry when you deliver the piece as well as making any future renovation/repair/refinishing easier because the tops are not integral - it's always the counter tops which get hammered more. The other suggestion is to protect the base of the counter with some form of kick plate or plinth/skirting as that area of the unit will be kicked a lot in service and can soon start to look scuffed and scabby

Good luck

Scrit

 

[Johnboy]

Thanks for the replies, knowledgeable and helpful as always.

They want the corners plain so no fluting etc but I will suggest Scrit's idea of a chamfer or similar. The base will have a torus skirting fitted painted white that I expect will require regular repainting. I will keep the tops removable as suggested.

The spec calls for "dark oak veneer MDF panels", pity as I think the natural light oak colour would look great, but I havn't seen the room it is going in. Funny how most people think oak is dark, I have oak furniture in my living room and people are amazed when I tell them it oak and they often ask how I stained it the light colour :shock:

The spec also calls for a stained and laquered finish so my first thought was poly varnish. Any other suggestions?

Thanks again.

John

 

[Scrit]

They want the corners plain so no fluting etc but I will suggest Scrit's idea of a chamfer or similar.

Even if you just knock the arriss off the corners with a 2mm round-over it will make a huge difference to the durability of the corners s and corner finishes

Scrit