ChrisWiduWood
Established Member
You might want to sort out that landing skirting as well ... jesus my eyes 
Help, cladding Newel Posts
- Thread starter deema
- Start date
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It is a mix of styles, glass infill with wooden rails. The property looks more period, ie last century so I would remove the lot and fit wooden spindles and new post, good opportunity to buy a lathe and take up some turning otherwise plenty of places to buy the parts.
https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/prod...MI3ICKg6bTggMV8IRQBh0zrA-QEAAYASAAEgIEgPD_BwE
https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/prod...MI3ICKg6bTggMV8IRQBh0zrA-QEAAYASAAEgIEgPD_BwE
That’s being done, the skirting is what was there originally some bodge I have to say. It’s loose, and still in place so I can use it as a rough template for cutting the replacementYou might want to sort out that landing skirting as well ... jesus my eyes
We have moved the whole house more contemporary, all a matter of taste, of which I profess to have zero. I’m working on happy wife happy life.
The problem there is that it becomes a full time job, what is in favour this year may well be out next year and you could end up in a state of constant change.
ColinDeVelen
Established Member
Isn't that just always the way of things? Plus one for the thin boards glued on by the way.
You had the answer here:
Once the cladding is mitrelocked together they will not move or cup.
That is a nice job, a lot of work but a good result. With hindsight would you have still done it that way or just replaced, I suppose it is a question of your time against cost of premade parts.
I have the large one of these Lock Mitre Bits – Infinity Tools and the setting jig, that made the setup so much easier but have never done lenths as long as the ones you have done. What cutters did you use ?
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Thank you.
In this case it was not going to be an option to remove and replace and it helped that the existing was rock solid. Had there been any issues with the stair treads and risers needing attention I would have had no qualms about taking the lot out. Also I needed to broaden the middle newel post anyway to accept the upper and lower handrails without clashing.
Until you have dabbled with the mitrelock joint you cannot envisage how helpful it is in aiding the process of fitting up. It's so well locked that it tends to stick together and stay put while popping a clamp or two on.
The timber planing was done in two stages with time to "settle" in between which greatly reduced any chance of movement when finished.
For the joints I had the convenience of a spindle moulder and Whitehill full size block.
Cheers, Andy
Another plus for the spindle molder, I suppose that cuts the mitre lock joints in a single pass !
ChrisWiduWood
Established Member
Can i suggest that you plumb the string first as thats how it should have been done.
ChrisWiduWood
Established Member
Thanks everyone, you’ve convinced me, solid oak. @Sideways and I spent today experimenting with both the best way to make the cladding as well as the optimum thickness to achieve the best yield of the stuff I can get. Nothing ‘real’ made yet, just a lot of prototype boxes. Anyway, we’ve arrived at 10mm thick material, which is the minimum we felt we could get away with when using a mitre lock joint. I (as it is my staircase
) decided that the mitre lock was a IMO the better solution compared to say the lap joint as it is both self jigging making assembly around the newel will be easier and it also pushed the joint to the very tip. When rounded over the joint became almost invisible.
I’ve borrowed a friends router table with a Incra router lift and fence. I have to say these made setting up the mitre lock cutter very easy and quick. (I still prefer a spindle
) Anyway when I borrowed it I’d totally forgotten I have a special spindle shaft for the spindle moulder that can hold a router cutter holder, so I’m very tempted tomorrow to set that up and have a few text cuts. The big downside with the spindle is the RPM available it can only go up to 8000RPM.
We are using Riyter mitre lock cutter from Axminister. It can mitre lock material down to 9mm. Tyere are three cutters available each offering a different material thickness range.
The box isn’t glued, just held by my hand pressure, the lower picture shows two sides joined together at 90 Degrees. Spot the joint.
The round over bit was set a bit low and this left a slight groove. I need to make a few test pieces to iron out these sorts of issues and getting everything set up and tuned in.
With just hand pressure the joint creates a perfectly square box which I was amazes by.
) decided that the mitre lock was a IMO the better solution compared to say the lap joint as it is both self jigging making assembly around the newel will be easier and it also pushed the joint to the very tip. When rounded over the joint became almost invisible.I’ve borrowed a friends router table with a Incra router lift and fence. I have to say these made setting up the mitre lock cutter very easy and quick. (I still prefer a spindle
) Anyway when I borrowed it I’d totally forgotten I have a special spindle shaft for the spindle moulder that can hold a router cutter holder, so I’m very tempted tomorrow to set that up and have a few text cuts. The big downside with the spindle is the RPM available it can only go up to 8000RPM.We are using Riyter mitre lock cutter from Axminister. It can mitre lock material down to 9mm. Tyere are three cutters available each offering a different material thickness range.
The box isn’t glued, just held by my hand pressure, the lower picture shows two sides joined together at 90 Degrees. Spot the joint.
The round over bit was set a bit low and this left a slight groove. I need to make a few test pieces to iron out these sorts of issues and getting everything set up and tuned in.
With just hand pressure the joint creates a perfectly square box which I was amazes by.
HOJ
Established Member
I now make all my newels hollow, and did glue them around a plywood, now mdf core, I have in the past just mitred and biscuited them which was fine, but invested in the SM head to do them with the lock mitre option, saves a lot of of faff and the results are spot on, with a lot less clamping needed (the one on the left is 3.6 mtrs long) :
The other left
The other left
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hi @deema this might be helpful in getting a good joint
Wealden 45° Lock Mitre Cutter - Wealden Tool Online Resources
I had some issues with setup so ended up going infinity as they have a nice setup tool
https://www.infinitytools.co.uk/accessories/lock-mitre-jig/
Wealden 45° Lock Mitre Cutter - Wealden Tool Online Resources
I had some issues with setup so ended up going infinity as they have a nice setup tool
https://www.infinitytools.co.uk/accessories/lock-mitre-jig/
