Flattening doors?

[RossJarvis]

I'm currently fitting a "dodgy" hardwood door for a friend, this is the second old door I've done lately which is warped. The latch edge is about an inch out at the top when the bottom's home. She bought it being told it wasn't hung before, but as one stile is about 1/2" narrower than the other I think a bit of truth may be missing! The warp/bow/bend/whatever seems to be in the latch edge stile from the glazed area up. Admittedly, if I'd looked it over better I might have spotted it and put the hinges (x3) on that side which may have straightened it, but I put the hinges on the thicker stile thinking it better to put the weight hinge side.

Any ideas if there's any way to flatten it? It's panelled at the bottom and glazed at the top. It's internal so not a major draught issue. If there's enough flex in the door, generally with a bit of a push the latch can often hold the thing flat, but I've not shot (shooted/shuted/planed/butchered) it in yet as it's a bit wide and it seems fairly rigid and I don't think it'll flex enough.

PS, why would the hinges she bought (Zoo ball bearing) have 4-5mm stand-off, you could park a bus in the gap! I've recessed the hinges to close it up but don't like the look of this.

 

[Jacob]

Put a temporary latch or tower bolt at the top and a bit of packing at the bottom, to bend it the other way. After a while it may settle in. If not so what - the client chose it.

 

[RossJarvis]

Put a temporary latch or tower bolt at the top and a bit of packing at the bottom, to bend it the other way. After a while it may settle in. If not so what - the client chose it.

Thanks Jacob, that sounds easily do-able. Is there a spray-on product for wood which softens it, like there is for shoes? I can see that having a good market. Maybe I could get her to leave a kettle boiling over it for the next fortnight!

 

[GLFaria]

Put a temporary latch or tower bolt at the top and a bit of packing at the bottom, to bend it the other way. After a while it may settle in. If not so what - the client chose it.

Thanks Jacob, that sounds easily do-able. Is there a spray-on product for wood which softens it, like there is for shoes? I can see that having a good market. Maybe I could get her to leave a kettle boiling over it for the next fortnight!

A source in the US (Oakley Restoration & Finishing, llc) I once consulted about a possible use for glycerin for wood maintenance,
stated that, and I quote:
" We occasionally use liquid glycerin to soften "wild grain" and burl veneers prior to using them. It makes them a bit more flexible. We mix it with water, glue and alcohol and soak the veneer for a few hours. Do a Google search for: "using glycerin to soften wood veneer" and you'll come up with more info. I don't know of a use for it for wood maintenance.
I also tell customers to mix the glycerin with water and spray with a plant mister onto both rush seats and cane seats. It helps keep them flexible and not dry out." Unquote.

I never tried the method, though, and don't have a clue about how to tackle a whole wooden door. Anyway, that's one idea you might want to mull over.

G.

 

[RossJarvis]

" We occasionally use liquid glycerin to soften "wild grain" and burl veneers prior to using them. It makes them a bit more flexible. We mix it with water, glue and alcohol and soak the veneer for a few hours.
I never tried the method, though, and don't have a clue about how to tackle a whole wooden door. Anyway, that's one idea you might want to mull over.

G.

I'm thinking that nearly 2" of door may need a fair bit of soaking in relation to a veneer, however I am up for trying anything at least once (apart maybe for voting UKIP).

 

[Bod]

If the doors not painted, I suggest leaving it in the room, hung if poss. to acclimatize, then see how bad the fault is.
Followed by normal methods of twisting/reshaping as required.

Bod

 

[deema]

Check the frame is not cross legged, silly suggestion I know if you can see that the door is warped. The easiest way is to check the frame is to tap 4 nails at the top left and right and bottom left and right. Run a string from top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left. If they touch in the centre your frame has been fitted correctly. If they don't, this may be what is actually causing the door to appear to be warped. The only way to correct this is to re-fit the door frame.

 

[dm65]

Check the frame is not cross legged, silly suggestion I know if you can see that the door is warped. The easiest way is to check the frame is to tap 4 nails at the top left and right and bottom left and right. Run a string from top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left. If they touch in the centre your frame has been fitted correctly. If they don't, this may be what is actually causing the door to appear to be warped. The only way to correct this is to re-fit the door frame.

Good tip Deema, thanks, I'll use that as I'm having similar problems with old doors in an equally old house

 

[deema]

I've blamed a few doors for being out of flat only to find the frames were out in by someone blind. I now do the check before taking in any job. (I use masking tape to hold the string) t know whether I need to take the frame / release one side of the jamb first.

I also check the floor is level or if it's got to be lumpy, falls away from the threshold if there isn't a door already. Nothing gets a customer madder I feel than their brand new door having say a 1" gap along the bottom if they were prepared already. I normally fit a threshold that takes out the gap in this scenario as the best compromise.