DOL (direct online starter switch

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
mock, without the motor connected does the DOL stay on line when you release the start button?

I ask because:-
  • 1. The DOL looks to be a 3 phase item and I would expect any relay holding coils to be 400 volt rated and they may be pushed to hold in or make a firm contact at 230 volt. (although I've not had dealings with modern units)
    2. The holding coils normally are fed from L1 and L2 (hence why in my diagram I routed the neutral through the spare switch contacts in case of thermal overload requirements, not the Live line.)

See Page 13 of Bob's Induction motors in the home workshop. for a basic diagram (the sort I'm used to.)
 
CHJ":19u2grrv said:
mock, without the motor connected does the DOL stay on line when you release the start button?

I ask because:-
  • 1. The DOL looks to be a 3 phase item and I would expect any relay holding coils to be 400 volt rated and they may be pushed to hold in or make a firm contact at 230 volt. (although I've not had dealings with modern units)
    2. The holding coils normally are fed from L1 and L2 (hence why in my diagram I routed the neutral through the spare switch contacts in case of thermal overload requirements, not the Live line.)

See Page 13 of Bob's Induction motors in the home workshop. for a basic diagram (the sort I'm used to.)
The DOL should be fine at 230volt, most are 3 phase now.
As long as power passes through all three poles it will pull in, hence linking two together when used on single phase.

Without the motor connected it should not work as there will be no current flow to create the magnetic field.
 
Sorry i haven;t given you a up date but i haven;t had time today regarding the Re: DOL (direct online starter switch and motor my first plan of attack tomorrow is to buy a 20 amp fuse for the Wylex 2-Way Fully Insulated RCD Garage Consumer Unit + 2 MCBs because it trips back to the 16 am fuse i have in the unit so i think ill change that first and go from there :? :?
 
Only just go back home so i.ll be having a go later on .And yes it;s going in the fuse box and my cable to the motor is 2.5 and to the switch ??? mock
 
I would like to thank you all for your patience and time helping me with fitting and rewiring a new motor and switch iv.e just changed the 16 amp in the consumer unit for a 20 amp and so far so good it;s running{{ SO A BIG THANK YOU ALL CONCERNED ]]] When and if i get her all back together ill post a photo or two .. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Mock
 
mock":3mbbqy46 said:
I would like to thank you all for your patience and time helping me with fitting and rewiring a new motor and switch iv.e just changed the 16 amp in the consumer unit for a 20 amp and so far so good it;s running{{ SO A BIG THANK YOU ALL CONCERNED ]]] When and if i get her all back together ill post a photo or two .. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Mock
Glad to see you got it running. Well done!
 
Did you fit a type C 20amp MCB? if not you might still have probelms once the motor is on the drill and the belt driving the spindle.

Test with belt at top speed to sure.
 
O.k back to my startrite table saw 275 1st question the saw starts when all other electrics are of and only the saw is on }}} if i start her with the lights on in the garage she trips the saw should i change the other fuse in the consumer unit what is a 6 amp for the lights ect if so what do you recommend ????? And now for question no 2 my saw blade what is 12 in keeps hitting the the plate in the photo when wound up fully any suggestions
mock
 

Attachments

  • DSCF7618.JPG
    DSCF7618.JPG
    183.2 KB · Views: 26
  • DSCF7619.JPG
    DSCF7619.JPG
    157.2 KB · Views: 26
How thing.s Keith i hope you are looking after my startrite ; only to day i started to put it together thank good i bought the wheel kit to go with her sh;e big any heavy old thing or should i say new iv;e bought a startrite table saw and changed the motor so iv;e been having a bit of trouble with the electrics tripping so only today i have started to put the band saw together
Mock
 
Mock.
Glad you got the saw going.
I am getting a little confused, what trips when you start the saw with the lights on.
A little diagram and photos will help.
What feeds the consumer unit in the workshop? sounds like it needs upgrading but thats no good if the supply has no capacity.
 
O;k here we go from my consumer unit in the house i have a hammered cable running the length of the garden up to my garage and into a smaller consumer unit with a 6 amp fuse and now a 20 amp and when i switch the saw on it keeps tripping the 20 amp in the unit but when i switch the lights of she starts 4 out of 5 times with out tripping the 20 amp photo.s below.[[ and from the plug a 13 amp fuse with a 2.5 flexi cable to the saw and again 2.5 cable to the motor
mock
 

Attachments

  • DSCF7620.JPG
    DSCF7620.JPG
    165.2 KB · Views: 71
  • DSCF7622.JPG
    DSCF7622.JPG
    229.2 KB · Views: 71
  • DSCF7623.JPG
    DSCF7623.JPG
    136 KB · Views: 71
You need a dedicated higher current circuit with possibly a 20 amp type C mcb to stand a chance of reliable operation.

from the picture looks to me if you are still using a "B" type MCB.
 
Any chance you could explain do you think i need a better unit in the garage ?? if so what would you recommend
Mock
 
You have got to be in line for one of the most difficult people to help in this forum in a long while.
I and others have told you that you need a type C breaker and yet you went out and bought B type breakers and then you wonder why you have problems. Why should we waste time on someone who will not read and act on advice??
Last chance as far as I'm concerned.
Look at your breakers and they have a capital B on them followed by a one or two digit number. Take them along to your electrical supplier and swap them for ones with a C on and followed by the same number as the original ones for all parts of the circuit that supply the motor.

ie replace B20 with C20 etc in the house CU feeding the workshop and in the workshop itself. Do not change the lighting one that stays at B6.
 
And you must be the most arr agent person i know. If you don;t want to help don;t > And that sir is putting it politely .I was told Bob grump 9 finger;s and now i know why (hammer) (hammer) (hammer) (hammer)
Mock
 
Mock,
No good thumping the table mate.
I have been trying to help you on several occasions with this saw project and the advice I have given on this particular point has been repeated by others and yet you have done something else. If you had come back and said that you could not get a type C then we could have helped you find one.

Can you say why you persisted and fitted a type B?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top