Axminster AWFS18 trade scroll saw blade advice

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Established Member
12 Feb 2005
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I just bough the above off Facebook for £90 and it is in good condition so I am pleased so far. I don't have a bandsaw at the moment (having stupidly selling my Record Power BS500 last year). I am making oak Suffolk latches/handles for oak ledger cottage doors for our cottage. I want to see if the scroll saw would be upon to cutting though 1" - 1.25" in oak, cherry and walnut as I want to cut out the latches and handles. It's been about 18 years since I used a scroll saw so a bit rusty. I read that no 9 reverse skip tooth blades would be be best for hardwood but would appreciate any advice. Thanks
Also there are no AWFS18 owners in travelling distance of Northants are there who could show me what I'm doing wrong in changing the blades? I've followed the manual and placed the clamping blocks in the two spaces provided but it almost seems as though they are two close together as when I use them as a guide to clamp a blade in, by the time I go to fit them in the saw, they aren't far enough apart. It means trying to fiddle and adjust the blade whilst attached to the saw and it is invariably jumping out as soon as I start the saw. A frustrating afternoon - which I l know is down to use error.
I am not familiar with this machine but as far as I am aware it is a clone of the Hegner machines. Tighten the blade in the bottom blade holder then fit it in place on the machine, it should have a little spring to keep the holder attached, have the top holder in place on the machine then with the tension lever off push down on the top arm, insert the blade and tighten in place then set the tension lever.

You will find it a lot easier and better by using the Hegner quick clamp as the top blade holder, it is expensive for what it is but once you have used it you will not want to be without it, IMHO it is essential ; especially if you do internal cuts. You can see the quick clamp in use in my Youtube videos.

You can get the quick clamp here Quick Clamp for Piercework

As for blades, for cutting hardwood as thick as you suggest I would use the thickest blade that you can such as a No 11 standard blade.

I only use two types of blade, Reverse tooth for fine fretwork to cut out splintering at the bottom of the work but for general work such as you are discussing I would just use a standard fretsaw blade.


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