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Definitely a situation demanding use of a holdfast, otherwise he'll need a new set of saw unsplit nuts.

A dab of superglue works wonders when "fixing" old labels into place. Allow it to cure for a couple of days and you can then re-finish the handle using dye and varnish of your choice. I tend to use Colron Wood Dye "Indian Rosewood" and Liberon Danish Oil when re-finishing handles and front...

My Stay-Set cap irons "click" tightly together too. :D I've been using them (Numbers 03 - 07) since the early seventies and the question regarding accurate placement tends to be a non-issue during set-up.

The last word is "if it works for you, use it" :) Chamois leather glued to a flat plate (Timber or metal) serves well for stropping when partnered with stropping paste/crayon, or visit a saddler's/leather worker's shop and ask if they have any butt leather off-cuts. Thickness doesn't really...

I'm a long term user/devotee of Record Stay-Set cap irons (I assume Clifton's two-piece cap irons are very high quality replica) and have never experienced problems mislaying nosing sections, or with loose fitting parts, or regarding accurate & fine placement for finish shavings. I tend to keep...

IMHO a thicker iron isn't vital for an improvised scrub plane, but I'd tend to err on the side of experimenting with varying degrees of radii before heading the beefier iron and more extensive plane fettling route. A 200-250mm radius tends to work well for me. :)

It was re-listed and then withdrawn before the auction's due date.

This is where listening to and receiving tuition (One to one or online) from proven craftsmen:teachers pays dividends, rather than being influenced via DIY writers or tool sales technicians who's taste/preferences vary depending on their employment or the need to write/publish articles. Being...

It is a beech bodied Marples transitional jack plane - they also produced a smoother - made primarily for school use (During the '50's when schools were moving between wooden and iron soled planes) with a decent crucible steel iron, but limited frog adjustment. Limited frog adjustment - via two...

Only if steel toe capped. :lol:

You forgot to mention your brown paper bag collection. :lol: :wink:

Depends on whether or not you'd buy one. I inherited mine and it spends most of it's time gathering dust. :lol:

Try not to over tighten things, as finger tight is enough. Keep shaving/cut depth fine - re how the plane iron relates to the distance it projects beyond the skate - and you should find technique falls neatly into place.

There's always more than one way to change a light bulb. :lol: I think you're doing the right thing by asking and treating kit building as skill building exercises. I'd recommend making a toolbox/chest and a pair of saw horses and possible projects.

Yes, primarily for smoothing out glue lines, trimming into corners and as shelf decoration, but you definitely need to maintain downward pressure on the back as they can tend to nose dive into your work if you're not careful.

You may struggle with your grip on a #03 - depending on your hand size - , but should be fine using a #04 unless you wrap all four fingers around the rear handle, instead of adopting the usual saw handle grip (Three fingers and thumb on handle with fore finger pointed forward). I'm 6'2.5" and...

Sounds like you're getting into the swing of things :wink: Mastering the set up and how to use your first plane is the hardest part and it's "plane" sailing from then on. :)

They're mounted into the bench surface. :) ------------

Yes, so the next step is to identify the size of this particular Woden holdfast. :)

As long as you countersink the holes in your bench, I can't imagine any serious problems using your holdfast without collars, although collars should be available via Axminster and Tilgear. :)